Building a Kitsap Caboose: Difference between revisions

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File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 10.jpg|The short section of the roof is prepared for welding.  The roof is stitch welded on the inside.
File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 10.jpg|The short section of the roof is prepared for welding.  The roof is stitch welded on the inside.
File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 11.jpg|A box full of detail parts from [[Precision Steel Car]].
File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 11.jpg|A box full of detail parts from [[Precision Steel Car]].
File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 12.jpg|The steps must be cut the same length.  I trimmed all these to the same length in the mill.
File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 13.jpg|The instructions suggested clamping the steps to a section 1x1 inch angle aluminum.  I chose instead to use magnetic holders, which worked quite well. In the background you can see where I blew a hole in the side of the caboose while welding.  This was easily fixed later by filling in with a wire welder.
File:Kitsap Live Steamers Caboose 14.jpg|A complete set of welded steps.
</gallery>
</gallery>

Revision as of 23:00, 17 June 2015


by Daris A Nevil

Build Gallery

  • Laying out the base and other parts for the Kitsap Live Steamers caboose kit. Photo by Daris A Nevil, April 2015.

    Laying out the base and other parts for the Kitsap Live Steamers caboose kit. Photo by Daris A Nevil, April 2015.

  • The floor plats have been welded to the side beams. The center beam and bolster supports have been attached as well. The end beam has been welded to the end of the floor and the coupler pocket. The half rounds were previously brazed on the end beam.

    The floor plats have been welded to the side beams. The center beam and bolster supports have been attached as well. The end beam has been welded to the end of the floor and the coupler pocket. The half rounds were previously brazed on the end beam.

  • Top view of floor plats showing "stitch" welds.

    Top view of floor plats showing "stitch" welds.

  • Bottom view of the floor shows stitch welds. These welds were made using a red Lincoln "tombstone" welder (seen under the table) with 1/8 inch 6011 rods. You must be very careful to prevent warpage during welding, even with this thicker material. By careful I mean make short stitch welds (1/4 inch) and allow to cool between welds (10-15 seconds). Use lots of C-clamps to hold materials tightly together during welding.

    Bottom view of the floor shows stitch welds. These welds were made using a red Lincoln "tombstone" welder (seen under the table) with 1/8 inch 6011 rods. You must be very careful to prevent warpage during welding, even with this thicker material. By careful I mean make short stitch welds (1/4 inch) and allow to cool between welds (10-15 seconds). Use lots of C-clamps to hold materials tightly together during welding.

  • Angle iron has been stitched onto the end wall, which is now positioned for test fitting. I used small brass hinges for the doors, and brazed them to the steel. In retrospect I wish I had used rivets.

    Angle iron has been stitched onto the end wall, which is now positioned for test fitting. I used small brass hinges for the doors, and brazed them to the steel. In retrospect I wish I had used rivets.

  • Preparing for welding the four sides together. The clamps are from Harbor Freight, and were made for wood projects, but I found they worked quite well for this project (and I already had them).

    Preparing for welding the four sides together. The clamps are from Harbor Freight, and were made for wood projects, but I found they worked quite well for this project (and I already had them).

  • The four sides have been welded together and to the floor. Be sure to use a square to align the sides. Note the angle iron on the upper edge was welded in sections. This was a grave mistake on my part, as it causes severe warpage of the sides. I later removed these and replaced with one long piece as the instructions suggest.

    The four sides have been welded together and to the floor. Be sure to use a square to align the sides. Note the angle iron on the upper edge was welded in sections. This was a grave mistake on my part, as it causes severe warpage of the sides. I later removed these and replaced with one long piece as the instructions suggest.

  • Angle iron has been welded to the edges of the cupola front and back sections.

    Angle iron has been welded to the edges of the cupola front and back sections.

  • The cupola front and back have been welded to the cupola sides.

    The cupola front and back have been welded to the cupola sides.

  • The short section of the roof is prepared for welding. The roof is stitch welded on the inside.

    The short section of the roof is prepared for welding. The roof is stitch welded on the inside.

  • A box full of detail parts from Precision Steel Car.

    A box full of detail parts from Precision Steel Car.

  • The steps must be cut the same length. I trimmed all these to the same length in the mill.

    The steps must be cut the same length. I trimmed all these to the same length in the mill.

  • The instructions suggested clamping the steps to a section 1x1 inch angle aluminum. I chose instead to use magnetic holders, which worked quite well. In the background you can see where I blew a hole in the side of the caboose while welding. This was easily fixed later by filling in with a wire welder.

    The instructions suggested clamping the steps to a section 1x1 inch angle aluminum. I chose instead to use magnetic holders, which worked quite well. In the background you can see where I blew a hole in the side of the caboose while welding. This was easily fixed later by filling in with a wire welder.

  • A complete set of welded steps.

    A complete set of welded steps.

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