Turnouts - Revision history

Dnevil: /* Frog */

2025-08-06T20:10:23Z

Frog

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:10, 6 August 2025
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	=== Frog ===		=== Frog ===

			* [[Dual Gauge Frog]]

	=== Points ===		=== Points ===

Dnevil: /* Size */

2024-09-23T13:52:05Z

Size

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:52, 23 September 2024
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	<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>		<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
	File:WesternPacificRR TurnoutNo7 19370201.JPG\|Drawing for No 7 Turnout of the Western Pacific Railroad.		File:WesternPacificRR TurnoutNo7 19370201.JPG\|Drawing for No 7 Turnout of the Western Pacific Railroad.
			File:RidgeLiveSteamers switch info.jpeg\|Ridge Live Steamers specs for frog, radius and lead
	</gallery>		</gallery>

Dnevil: /* External Links */

2024-08-09T01:23:37Z

External Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:23, 8 August 2024
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	<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>		<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>

			== See Also ==

			* [[Switch Gap Design]]

	== External Links ==		== External Links ==

Dnevil: /* Size */

2024-06-06T19:31:53Z

Size

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:31, 6 June 2024
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	A ''straight track'' is not always present; for example, both tracks may curve, one to the left and one to the right (such as for a wye switch), or both tracks may curve, with differing radii, while still in the same direction.		A ''straight track'' is not always present; for example, both tracks may curve, one to the left and one to the right (such as for a wye switch), or both tracks may curve, with differing radii, while still in the same direction.

			== Operation ==

			<youtube>jn0nUj1XL4U</youtube>

	== Size ==		== Size ==

Dnevil: /* References */

2024-03-09T14:42:12Z

References

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:42, 9 March 2024
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	<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>		<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>

	== ~~References~~ ==		== External Links ==

	* "Turnout", [[Robert Maynard\|Robert W. Maynard]], <i>Live Steam</i>, April 1972		* "Turnout", [[Robert Maynard\|Robert W. Maynard]], <i>Live Steam</i>, April 1972
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	* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=110801 "Please Post Your Thoughts", <i>Chaski.org</i>, Contains photos and info on turnouts]		* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=110801 "Please Post Your Thoughts", <i>Chaski.org</i>, Contains photos and info on turnouts]
	* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=110795&p=441696#p441696 "Switch construction rail lengths", <i>Chaski.org</i>]		* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=110795&p=441696#p441696 "Switch construction rail lengths", <i>Chaski.org</i>]
			* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=112989 "7.x gauge 3-way switch", <i>Chaski.org</i>]

Dnevil: /* Tutorials */

2023-09-06T18:05:46Z

Tutorials

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:05, 6 September 2023
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	<youtube>rB_ydK0ZAc8</youtube>		<youtube>rB_ydK0ZAc8</youtube>

	~~== Tutorials ==~~

	<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>		<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>

Dnevil: /* Expert Advice */

2023-09-06T16:51:15Z

Expert Advice

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:51, 6 September 2023
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	: I have used these springs with great success on all my switches.		: I have used these springs with great success on all my switches.

	<~~videoflash~~>rB_ydK0ZAc8</~~videoflash~~>		<youtube>rB_ydK0ZAc8</youtube>

			== Tutorials ==

			<youtube>yCEDBbWwKQE</youtube>

	== References ==		== References ==

Dnevil: /* Expert Advice */

2023-04-17T16:19:48Z

Expert Advice

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:19, 17 April 2023
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	: You can use angle iron for the points, but the head of the rail is then quite narrow, unless if you use something like 1/4" x 1" x 1" angle iron. Channel iron makes prototype looking switch points. Yes, you can do it many other ways but stop and think, do we want our track to look like the full sized?		: You can use angle iron for the points, but the head of the rail is then quite narrow, unless if you use something like 1/4" x 1" x 1" angle iron. Channel iron makes prototype looking switch points. Yes, you can do it many other ways but stop and think, do we want our track to look like the full sized?

	Bruce Mowbray wrote on Yahoo LiveDiesel:		[[Bruce Mowbray]] wrote on Yahoo LiveDiesel:

	: I would like to add that you don't need much pressure. Only the amount that will pull the points back against the rail. Too much pressure and unloaded cars will tend to climb up the back side of the point and derail. I did some trial and error experimentation with some air powered switches and found that more than 5 pounds of air in a 3/4 inch bore cylinder caused these type of derailments with light weight cars. It only took 2 or 3 pounds to pull the points in tight, depending on how clean the stainless steel point slide plates were. Dirty and wet took more pressure to move the points.		: I would like to add that you don't need much pressure. Only the amount that will pull the points back against the rail. Too much pressure and unloaded cars will tend to climb up the back side of the point and derail. I did some trial and error experimentation with some air powered switches and found that more than 5 pounds of air in a 3/4 inch bore cylinder caused these type of derailments with light weight cars. It only took 2 or 3 pounds to pull the points in tight, depending on how clean the stainless steel point slide plates were. Dirty and wet took more pressure to move the points.

Dnevil: /* Points */

2022-04-18T21:41:11Z

Points

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:41, 18 April 2022
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	: I taper the base of the rail, and notch the head as well, about 5.25 inches long. I use my vertical/horizontal band saw and roller stand from harbor freight. I use a square to mark the angle on the base, then cut it alone the scribed line. I use an angle grinder to notch the head of the rail, and smooth out the angle on the base.		: I taper the base of the rail, and notch the head as well, about 5.25 inches long. I use my vertical/horizontal band saw and roller stand from harbor freight. I use a square to mark the angle on the base, then cut it alone the scribed line. I use an angle grinder to notch the head of the rail, and smooth out the angle on the base.

	<gallery width=~~500px~~ heights=~~500px~~ perrow=2>		<gallery width=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
	File:Carl MidwestScaleRail NotchForPoints 20220418.jpg\|A notch cut into the aluminum rail allows the point to form a smooth transition.		File:Carl MidwestScaleRail NotchForPoints 20220418.jpg\|A notch cut into the aluminum rail allows the point to form a smooth transition.
	File:Carl MidwestScaleRail SideNotch.jpg		File:Carl MidwestScaleRail SideNotch.jpg

Dnevil: /* Points */

2022-04-18T21:40:53Z

Points

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:40, 18 April 2022
Line 35:		Line 35:
	: I taper the base of the rail, and notch the head as well, about 5.25 inches long. I use my vertical/horizontal band saw and roller stand from harbor freight. I use a square to mark the angle on the base, then cut it alone the scribed line. I use an angle grinder to notch the head of the rail, and smooth out the angle on the base.		: I taper the base of the rail, and notch the head as well, about 5.25 inches long. I use my vertical/horizontal band saw and roller stand from harbor freight. I use a square to mark the angle on the base, then cut it alone the scribed line. I use an angle grinder to notch the head of the rail, and smooth out the angle on the base.

	<gallery width=~~300px~~ heights=~~300px~~ perrow=2>		<gallery width=500px heights=500px perrow=2>
	File:Carl MidwestScaleRail NotchForPoints 20220418.jpg\|A notch cut into the aluminum rail allows the point to form a smooth transition.		File:Carl MidwestScaleRail NotchForPoints 20220418.jpg\|A notch cut into the aluminum rail allows the point to form a smooth transition.
	File:Carl MidwestScaleRail SideNotch.jpg		File:Carl MidwestScaleRail SideNotch.jpg