Setting Stephenson Valves - Revision history

Dnevil at 19:17, 6 June 2024

2024-06-06T19:17:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:17, 6 June 2024
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	<br><br>		<br><br>
	<youtube>Bkq-lMtcv4g</youtube>		<youtube>Bkq-lMtcv4g</youtube>

			<youtube>lARqmPmzK5I</youtube>

	== See Also ==		== See Also ==

	* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=106661 "Allen Mogul Timing", <i>Chaski.org</i>]		* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=106661 "Allen Mogul Timing", <i>Chaski.org</i>]

Dnevil at 18:48, 7 May 2024

2024-05-07T18:48:55Z

Dnevil at 18:48, 7 May 2024

2024-05-07T18:48:03Z

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 Tom
 == See Also ==
 * [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=106661 "Allen Mogul Timing", <i>Chaski.org</i>]

Dnevil at 22:42, 4 April 2024

2024-04-04T22:42:45Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:42, 4 April 2024
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	Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).		Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).

	Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the valve being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.		Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the valve being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. See [[Dead center]]. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.

	'''Timing the Engine'''		'''Timing the Engine'''

Dnevil at 22:41, 4 April 2024

2024-04-04T22:41:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:41, 4 April 2024
Line 9:		Line 9:
	Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).		Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).

	Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the ~~value~~ being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.		Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the valve being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.

	'''Timing the Engine'''		'''Timing the Engine'''

Dnevil at 22:38, 4 April 2024

2024-04-04T22:38:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:38, 4 April 2024
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	If your cams are properly spaced 90 degrees apart and you have done everything else right while building it, you should have no difficulty in timing it.		If your cams are properly spaced 90 degrees apart and you have done everything else right while building it, you should have no difficulty in timing it.

			Some locomotives, such as the [[Allen Models]] Mogul and 10-wheeler, have adjustment rods on the eccentrics. These can be used to make adjustments after making sure the eccentrics are properly spaced 90 degrees apart.

	Good Luck		Good Luck

Dnevil at 22:36, 4 April 2024

2024-04-04T22:36:03Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:36, 4 April 2024
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	'''Preparation'''		'''Preparation'''

	Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that.		Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).

	Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the value being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.		Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the value being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.

Dnevil at 22:35, 4 April 2024

2024-04-04T22:35:02Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:35, 4 April 2024
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	[[Category:Construction]]		[[Category:Construction]]
	[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]		[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]
			[[File:Stephenson_link_valvegear_(Army_Service_Corps_Training,_Mechanical_Transport,_1911).jpg\|center\|700px]]

	[[Tom Stamey]] wrote the following description for setting Stephenson valve gear on [[Allen Models]] locomotives, 20 April 2014.		[[Tom Stamey]] wrote the following description for setting Stephenson valve gear on [[Allen Models]] locomotives, 20 April 2014.

Dnevil at 22:06, 4 April 2024

2024-04-04T22:06:16Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:06, 4 April 2024
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	'''Preparation'''		'''Preparation'''

	Take the heads off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head. You will have to move the engine to do that.		Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that.

	Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the ~~rods~~ to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have ~~them~~ squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary ~~to be able~~ to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.		Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the value being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.

	'''Timing the Engine'''		'''Timing the Engine'''

	1. Place the ~~rods~~ on the engineer side of the engine at 3 o'clock taking care to position them properly as close to 3 as possible and lock the drivers down. ~~Put your revers lever in full forward.~~ Move the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in full forward. ~~Move~~ the forward eccentric until the valve just barely covers the opening and lock it down. Then put ~~rods~~ in the 9 o'clock position, lock down the drivers, reverse lever in full reverse and ~~move~~ the reverse ~~cam~~ until the ~~head~~ covers the back opening in the head~~. Then~~ lock it down.		1. Place the rod crank on the engineer side of the engine at 3 o'clock taking care to position them properly as close to 3 as possible and lock the drivers down. Move the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] to full forward. Adjust the forward eccentric until the valve just barely covers the front opening in the head and lock it down. Then put the rod crank in the 9 o'clock position, lock down the drivers, move reverse lever to full reverse and adjust the reverse eccentric until the valve just barely covers the back opening in the head and lock it down.

	2. Go to the fireman's side and put the rods at 9 o'clock, lock drivers down, reverse lever in full forward, move the forward cam to where the valve just covers the front opening, and lock it down. Put rods at 3 o'clock, lock down the drivers, reverse lever in full reverse and move reverse cam until the valve covers the back of the opening. Again the pencil marks come in handy.		2. Go to the fireman's side and put the rods at 9 o'clock, lock drivers down, reverse lever in full forward, move the forward cam to where the valve just covers the front opening, and lock it down. Put rods at 3 o'clock, lock down the drivers, reverse lever in full reverse and move reverse cam until the valve covers the back of the opening. Again the pencil marks come in handy.
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	It GREATLY simplifies things if you have one person watching the valve while another is under the engine moving the cams. They can tell you when to stop or to go the other way etc. Or, if you have not yet put the boiler on you can time it and see the valve from above.		It GREATLY simplifies things if you have one person watching the valve while another is under the engine moving the cams. They can tell you when to stop or to go the other way etc. Or, if you have not yet put the boiler on you can time it and see the valve from above.

	If your cams are properly spaced 90 degrees apart and you have done everything else right while building it, you should ~~hav enot~~ difficulty in timing it.		If your cams are properly spaced 90 degrees apart and you have done everything else right while building it, you should have no difficulty in timing it.

	Good Luck		Good Luck

Dnevil at 21:17, 11 May 2018

2018-05-11T21:17:55Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:17, 11 May 2018
Line 25:		Line 25:

	Tom		Tom

			== See Also ==

			* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=106661 "Allen Mogul Timing", <i>Chaski.org</i>]

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:48, 7 May 2024
Line 5:		Line 5:
	[[Tom Stamey]] wrote the following description for setting Stephenson valve gear on [[Allen Models]] locomotives, 20 April 2014.		[[Tom Stamey]] wrote the following description for setting Stephenson valve gear on [[Allen Models]] locomotives, 20 April 2014.

	'''Preparation'''		: '''Preparation'''

	Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).		: Take the heads (valve covers) off both cylinders. Take a soft lead pencil and mark the exact edge of the opening on both the front and back of the valve head (the plate the valve slides over). You will have to move the engine to do that (i.e. rotate the drive wheels).

	Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the valve being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. See [[Dead center]]. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.		: Then, with the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] in neutral move the rod crank (on the same side as the valve being set) to the position of 12 o'clock. Take some time to make sure you have the crank squarely on 12. See [[Dead center]]. The valve must be equally located between the front and rear openings in the head. If not use the adjustment screw on the valve rod to center it. Do this on both sides of the engine. This is called "centering the valve" and is absolutely necessary to properly time the engine. You will find the pencil marks very handy. Assuming your adjustment nuts never get loose you won't ever have to do this again.

	'''Timing the Engine'''		: '''Timing the Engine'''

	1. Place the rod crank on the engineer side of the engine at 3 o'clock taking care to position them properly as close to 3 as possible and lock the drivers down. Move the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] to full forward. Adjust the forward eccentric until the valve just barely covers the front opening in the head and lock it down. Then put the rod crank in the 9 o'clock position, lock down the drivers, move reverse lever to full reverse and adjust the reverse eccentric until the valve just barely covers the back opening in the head and lock it down.		: 1. Place the rod crank on the engineer side of the engine at 3 o'clock taking care to position them properly as close to 3 as possible and lock the drivers down. Move the [[Johnson bar\|reverse lever]] to full forward. Adjust the forward eccentric until the valve just barely covers the front opening in the head and lock it down. Then put the rod crank in the 9 o'clock position, lock down the drivers, move reverse lever to full reverse and adjust the reverse eccentric until the valve just barely covers the back opening in the head and lock it down.

	2. Go to the fireman's side and put the rods at 9 o'clock, lock drivers down, reverse lever in full forward, move the forward cam to where the valve just covers the front opening, and lock it down. Put rods at 3 o'clock, lock down the drivers, reverse lever in full reverse and move reverse cam until the valve covers the back of the opening. Again the pencil marks come in handy.		: 2. Go to the fireman's side and put the rods at 9 o'clock, lock drivers down, reverse lever in full forward, move the forward cam to where the valve just covers the front opening, and lock it down. Put rods at 3 o'clock, lock down the drivers, reverse lever in full reverse and move reverse cam until the valve covers the back of the opening. Again the pencil marks come in handy.

	3. Understand that moving the reverse cams will slightly affect the forward valve position and vice versa and that you will have to repeat the above steps a couple of more times to get the engine to time as close as possible.		: 3. Understand that moving the reverse cams will slightly affect the forward valve position and vice versa and that you will have to repeat the above steps a couple of more times to get the engine to time as close as possible.

	It GREATLY simplifies things if you have one person watching the valve while another is under the engine moving the cams. They can tell you when to stop or to go the other way etc. Or, if you have not yet put the boiler on you can time it and see the valve from above.		: It GREATLY simplifies things if you have one person watching the valve while another is under the engine moving the cams. They can tell you when to stop or to go the other way etc. Or, if you have not yet put the boiler on you can time it and see the valve from above.

	If your cams are properly spaced 90 degrees apart and you have done everything else right while building it, you should have no difficulty in timing it.		: If your cams are properly spaced 90 degrees apart and you have done everything else right while building it, you should have no difficulty in timing it.

	Some locomotives, such as the [[Allen Models]] Mogul and 10-wheeler, have adjustment rods on the eccentrics. These can be used to make adjustments after making sure the eccentrics are properly spaced 90 degrees apart.		: Some locomotives, such as the [[Allen Models]] Mogul and 10-wheeler, have adjustment rods on the eccentrics. These can be used to make adjustments after making sure the eccentrics are properly spaced 90 degrees apart.

	Good Luck		: Good Luck

	Tom		: Tom