Arch - Revision history

Dnevil: /* External Links */

2020-01-28T00:00:21Z

External Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:00, 27 January 2020
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	* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=79055 "Firebox Arch", <i>Chaski.org</i>]		* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=79055 "Firebox Arch", <i>Chaski.org</i>]
			* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=109094 "Refractory Brick", <i>Chaski.org</i>]

IBLS Wiki Admin at 15:18, 12 July 2018

2018-07-12T15:18:10Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:18, 12 July 2018
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	[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]		[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]

	: I used to run a [[~~Little Engines~~\|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.		: I used to run a [[Martin Lewis\|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.

	: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.		: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2016-05-18T14:46:29Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:46, 18 May 2016
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	: My propane-burning 1/8th scale steamer has an angled stainless steel arch in the firebox plate causing a lengthening of the combustion path. The gas/flame path moves aft and upwards around the rear of the arch plate and then forward under the crown sheet towards the tube sheet. A 3/8" gap on both sides allows some combustion flow directly on the side sheets to maximize radiant heating. If the arch plate heats enough to glow orange, it provides addition radiant heat transfer to the firebox, where 60% - 75% of heat transfer occurs in full-sized locomotive boilers.		: My propane-burning 1/8th scale steamer has an angled stainless steel arch in the firebox plate causing a lengthening of the combustion path. The gas/flame path moves aft and upwards around the rear of the arch plate and then forward under the crown sheet towards the tube sheet. A 3/8" gap on both sides allows some combustion flow directly on the side sheets to maximize radiant heating. If the arch plate heats enough to glow orange, it provides addition radiant heat transfer to the firebox, where 60% - 75% of heat transfer occurs in full-sized locomotive boilers.

			== External Links ==

			* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=79055 "Firebox Arch", <i>Chaski.org</i>]

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-12T22:45:41Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:45, 12 March 2015
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	: I've had a piece of stainless arch in my 10 wheeler for 13 years. It may be discolored, but it's still doing the job. Last time I had the boiler off (about 6 years ago)...there was little deformation. Make the arch sheet as wide as you can fit in the firebox and still clear any weld "buds" from the stay bolts. For mounting...my arch is attached to the frame. Dimensions...my arch is about 1/2 to 2/3's as long as the firebox. I left an opening above the arch to the crown sheet that was approx. 10% of the grate area.		: I've had a piece of stainless arch in my 10 wheeler for 13 years. It may be discolored, but it's still doing the job. Last time I had the boiler off (about 6 years ago)...there was little deformation. Make the arch sheet as wide as you can fit in the firebox and still clear any weld "buds" from the stay bolts. For mounting...my arch is attached to the frame. Dimensions...my arch is about 1/2 to 2/3's as long as the firebox. I left an opening above the arch to the crown sheet that was approx. 10% of the grate area.

			[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94141#p327594 NP317 posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]:

			: My propane-burning 1/8th scale steamer has an angled stainless steel arch in the firebox plate causing a lengthening of the combustion path. The gas/flame path moves aft and upwards around the rear of the arch plate and then forward under the crown sheet towards the tube sheet. A 3/8" gap on both sides allows some combustion flow directly on the side sheets to maximize radiant heating. If the arch plate heats enough to glow orange, it provides addition radiant heat transfer to the firebox, where 60% - 75% of heat transfer occurs in full-sized locomotive boilers.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-11T20:56:29Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:56, 11 March 2015
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	: I ran with arches until the last run of last year. It was easier to fire without them. I was into the safeties almost all day, and using a blacksmith coal that was not good coal.		: I ran with arches until the last run of last year. It was easier to fire without them. I was into the safeties almost all day, and using a blacksmith coal that was not good coal.

			[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=97088#p287801 ccvstmr posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]:

			: I've had a piece of stainless arch in my 10 wheeler for 13 years. It may be discolored, but it's still doing the job. Last time I had the boiler off (about 6 years ago)...there was little deformation. Make the arch sheet as wide as you can fit in the firebox and still clear any weld "buds" from the stay bolts. For mounting...my arch is attached to the frame. Dimensions...my arch is about 1/2 to 2/3's as long as the firebox. I left an opening above the arch to the crown sheet that was approx. 10% of the grate area.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-11T20:53:32Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:53, 11 March 2015
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	: I run a 2.5 inch scale K36 with an arch. I started off with 1/4 inch [[SS]] but found that it only lasted 2 years. I now get 18 months or more out of mild steel if I weld 2 plates together. I have never run without one but I suspect the fire would clog and burn out my bottom tubes - 9 years on the ends of the tubes do not have any burning compared that what I have seen on loco's without an arch. I burn at most 50 kg of coal over a 6 hour period hauling a train of 50 - 70 passengers most of the time.		: I run a 2.5 inch scale K36 with an arch. I started off with 1/4 inch [[SS]] but found that it only lasted 2 years. I now get 18 months or more out of mild steel if I weld 2 plates together. I have never run without one but I suspect the fire would clog and burn out my bottom tubes - 9 years on the ends of the tubes do not have any burning compared that what I have seen on loco's without an arch. I burn at most 50 kg of coal over a 6 hour period hauling a train of 50 - 70 passengers most of the time.

			[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208809 Bill Wilkins posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]:

			: I ran with arches until the last run of last year. It was easier to fire without them. I was into the safeties almost all day, and using a blacksmith coal that was not good coal.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-11T20:52:29Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:52, 11 March 2015
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	: Post install, much lighter sooting problem and can get as much as 24 hours between flue cleaning. Fuel usage was down to one gallon any two hours.		: Post install, much lighter sooting problem and can get as much as 24 hours between flue cleaning. Fuel usage was down to one gallon any two hours.

			[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208794 Paul posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]

			: I run a 2.5 inch scale K36 with an arch. I started off with 1/4 inch [[SS]] but found that it only lasted 2 years. I now get 18 months or more out of mild steel if I weld 2 plates together. I have never run without one but I suspect the fire would clog and burn out my bottom tubes - 9 years on the ends of the tubes do not have any burning compared that what I have seen on loco's without an arch. I burn at most 50 kg of coal over a 6 hour period hauling a train of 50 - 70 passengers most of the time.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-11T20:48:03Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:48, 11 March 2015
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	: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.		: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.

			[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208745 John posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]:

			: I have built 3 oil fired engines and all had arches. The first two had cast refractory arches. My current engine ( a Shay ) has a SS plate 1/8" thick that works more like a deflector than an arch. It does the main purpose and that is to prevent the hot gases from short circuiting to the lower tubes.

			[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208765 Brew posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]:

			: I have run my Allen American with and without an arch, here is my basic findings. I will add I run my engine hard and just about always on the edge of its abilities

			: Firing on oil, Pre install, heavy soot with firing the boiler hard while pushing its limits. Flue cleaning needed every 4 to 6 hours under fire. Fuel usage was around one gallon an hour.

			: Post install, much lighter sooting problem and can get as much as 24 hours between flue cleaning. Fuel usage was down to one gallon any two hours.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-11T20:42:46Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:42, 11 March 2015
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	[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]		[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]

	: I used to run a [[~~Littel~~ Engines\|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.		: I used to run a [[Little Engines\|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.

	: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.		: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.

Dnevil: /* Experiences */

2015-03-11T20:42:20Z

Experiences

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:42, 11 March 2015
Line 9:		Line 9:
	== Experiences ==		== Experiences ==

	[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on <i>Chaski.org</i]		[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on <i>Chaski.org</i>]

	: I used to run a [[Littel Engines\|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.		: I used to run a [[Littel Engines\|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.

	: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.		: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.