IBLS - User contributions [en]

Main Page

2025-08-11T13:45:34Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Features */

{|
|-
| style="width: 30%;" |
The International Brotherhood of Live Steamers promotes the "Live Steam" hobby in North America and abroad.
[[File:Join-free-today-88005155.jpg|right|150px|link=https://international-brotherhood-of-live-steamers.inditioncra.com/new-member-signup]]
* '''[[Join the International Brotherhood of Live Steamers]]'''
* [[About the IBLS]]
* [[:Category:Beginners|Beginners start here]]

[[Special:AllPages|This wiki contains {{NUMBEROFARTICLES}} articles.]]
| style="width: 40%;" |

: I'd like to thank IBLS and its contributing members for the articles and information which have helped tremendously in guiding me along

:: Gary Kasper

: The IBLS wiki contains a wonderful number of standards for the home hobbyist to integrate into their designs in order to properly interchange with other equipment

:: [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=105288 Van Anderson]

: I feel it is my duty to pick my own brain and broadcast technical information that would be useful to others, thereby increasing the chances of prolonging The Hobby.

:: Paul C. Haar, former Secretary of the Northeastern Ohio Live Steamers

|}
== Features ==
[[File:TICH CAD Screenshot 7.jpg|thumb|right|300px|3D Model of LBSC's Tich by Jim Mullner]]

'''[[Queensland Society of Model and Experimental Engineers|Live steaming "down under" at the QSMEE annual Track and Tent event]]'''

'''[[Horace Shaw|The Legacy of Horace Shaw and the Whysall Light Railway]]'''

'''[[SteamScript|Live Steam programming language??!!]]'''

'''[[3/4 Inch Scale Registry|Bill Yoder's 3/4 inch scale registry - first update for 2025 with 17 new iron ponies]]'''

'''[[Ian Racer|Ian Racer and his scratch-built loco were featured in the December 2024 Newsletter of Speed Metals]]'''

'''[[Rail Expansion & Rail Joint Design|Ken Scheer discusses Rail Expansion & Rail Joint Design]]'''

'''[[How to Build a Model Railroad]] by Harold Loose includes historic Live Steam'''

'''[[Rolling Stock Manual|Fascinating collection of over 100 detailed mid-century freight and passenger car plans]]'''

'''[[Speaking Signaleze]]'''

'''[[Switch Gap Design|Ken Scheer discusses critical measurements for building smooth turnouts]]'''

'''[[Artzberger-Rodig Articles|Ken Rodig shared several articles and drawings from the Large Scale Model Railway Engineering newsletter]]'''

'''[[Chula_Vista_Live_Steamers#Jan_2024_Flood|Chula Vista Live Steamers flood damage]]'''

'''[[Harry_Coventry#Build_Instructions|Harry Coventry details how to build the 3/4 Pacific "George Washington"]]'''

'''[[Nick Edwards|Nick Edwards' passing leaves a big hole in the Heart of Texas]]'''

'''[[Superscale Locomotive Company|Catalog #9 is now available from Superscale Locomotive Company]]'''

'''[[Wischstadt Arch Bar Trucks|Arch Bar Trucks for 1/8 scale by Chuck Wischstadt]]'''

'''[[Ossipee Central Railway|Saving the Ossipee Central Railway]]'''

'''[[Steam Locomotive Drawings|A comprehensive list of steam locomotive drawings]]'''

[[Special:AllPages|Click here]] for a comprehensive list of articles.

== IBLS Store ==

=== Patch ===

A high-quality, 6 color patch commemorating the founding of the [[IBLS|Brotherhood of Live Steamers]] by [[Charles A. Purinton|Carl Purinton]] in 1932. The patch is 3 inches high, 2.7 inches wide.

[https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=G9JXMRMBYWKFW Only $5.00US each, includes postage. Click here to purchase]

<gallery widths=150px heights=150px>
File:IBLS Patch v2013.jpg
</gallery>

=== 7.x Wheel Gauge ===

This [[IBLS Wheel Gauge|7.x inch gauge Wheel Gauge]] will make verification of your wheel profile easy. Measures flange, wheel angle, and Minimum Tire Width (TW). Printed in durable PLA plastic. Color may vary.

[https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=B636JNSXPRAQW Only $2.50US each, includes postage. Click here to purchase]

<gallery widths=150px heights=150px>
File:IBLS 7.x Wheel Gauge 20210428.jpg
</gallery>

== Regional IBLS Secretaries ==

* [[North America]]
* [[Australia]]
* [[Europe]]

== Standards and Recommended Practice ==
[[File:William Daney No147.jpg|thumb|right|300px|This heavy Pacific 4-6-2 was built in 1936 by William L. Daney, Pueblo, Colorado.]]
* [[IBLS Wheel Standard]]
* [[IBLS Coupler and Safety Chain Standards]]
* [[IBLS Track Standard]]
* [[Loading gauge]]
* [[Standards and Recommended Practice]]
* [[Boiler Inspections]]
* [[Threads|Bolt and Pipe Threads]]
* [[Texas Standard Tie Spacing]]

== Wandering Locomotive Books ==
[[File:Van Brocklin Number 28 scan July 11 2017.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Bill Van Brocklin and #28 on Carl Purinton's Boxford Outer Belt Railroad]]
* [[Winton Brown Engineering Data]]
* [[Koster's_Miniature_Railroad_Supplies,_Inc#Wandering_Locomotive_Book|Koster's Miniature Railroad Supplies]]
* [[Lee_Wright|Lee Wright and Lee's Trains]]
* [[Jan-Eric_Nystr%C3%B6m#Baldwin_3003|Jan-Eric Nystrom's Baldwin 3003]]
* [[3/4 Inch Scale Registry|Bill Yoder's 3/4 Inch Scale Registry]]
* [[MDM_Locomotive_Works#Archive|Jim Murray and MDM Locomotive Works]]

== Articles by Category ==
[[File:Doug Massie UP Challenger.jpg|thumb|right|300px|3/4 inch scale live steam model of a Union Pacific Challenger built by D. W. Massie of Montreal, Canada.]]
* [[:Category:IBLS Secretaries]]
* [[:Category:People]]
* [[:Category:History]]
* [[:Category:Pop Culture]]

* [[:Category:Beginners]]

* [[:Category:Standards]]
* [[:Category:Definitions]]

* [[:Category:Clubs]]
* [[:Category:Tracks]]
* [[:Category:Suppliers]]

* [[:Category:Construction]]
* [[:Category:Maintenance]]
* [[:Category:Operations]]
* [[:Category:Right of Way]]
* [[:Category:Safety]]
* [[:Category:Materials]]

* [[:Category:Books]]
* [[:Category:Catalogs]]
* [[:Category:Periodicals]]

* [[:Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]
* [[:Category:Diesel Locomotive Parts]]
* [[:Category:Railroad Car Parts]]

* [[:Category:Prototypes]]
* [[:Category:Steam Locomotive Models]]

== Articles of Interest ==

* [[Steam Locomotive Drawings]]

== Contributing ==

Have an idea for an [[IBLS]] article? Please [mailto:daris@nevil.org contact daris@nevil.org]

Queensland Society of Model and Experimental Engineers

2025-08-11T13:38:32Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Clubs]]

== 2025 Track and Tent Event ==

Bernard Clark graciously provided links to the following videos to the 2025 QSMEE annual Track and Tent event.

<youtube>938kg93xjDk</youtube>

<youtube>foQLbNxVp1U</youtube>

<youtube>BvA9zaBHO2A</youtube>

== External Links ==

* [https://www.qsmee.com.au/ Official homepage]

File:RalfFrancis Shop photo by AWLeggett.jpg

2021-07-01T14:03:07Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

Ralf Francis (left) inspecting a 1.6 inch gauge American under construction in Ralf's shop. Photo by A.W. Leggett.

File:RalfFrancis Shop photo by AWLeggett.jpg

2021-07-01T14:02:56Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

Ralf Francis (left) and Ernie Grow inspecting a 1.6 inch gauge American under construction in Ralf's shop. Photo by A.W. Leggett.

File:RalfFrancis American circa2016.JPG

2021-07-01T14:02:44Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

The 1.6 inch American built by Ralf Francis, circa 2017.

Ralf Francis

2021-07-01T14:02:25Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

<gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2>
File:RalfFrancis Shop photo by AWLeggett.jpg|Ralf Francis (left) inspecting a 1.6 inch gauge American under construction in Ralf's shop. Photo by A.W. Leggett.
File:RalfFrancis American circa2016.JPG|The 1.6 inch American built by Ralf Francis, circa 2017.
</gallery>

== External Links ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104788&p=368682#p368682 "Ralph Frances (sic)"]

MediaWiki:Licenses

2019-11-25T21:27:34Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

*subst:No license from license selector|Don't know|I do not know the license
*subst:No license from license selector|Somewebsite|Found the image somewhere
*subst:Permission from license selector|The copyright holder gave me permission to use this work only in Wikipedia articles
*subst:Non-commercial from license selector|The copyright holder only allows this work to be used for non-commercial and/or educational purposes

* Your own work:
** Allow non-commercial use, commercial use, and modifications as long as others credit you and share alike:
*** self|cc-by-sa-4.0|Own work, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0
*** self|cc-by-sa-4.0,3.0,2.5,2.0,1.0|Own work, multi-license with CC-BY-SA-4.0 and older
*** self|cc-by-sa-4.0|GFDL|migration=not-eligible|Own work, multi-license with CC-BY-SA-4.0 and GFDL
** Allow non-commercial use, commercial use, and modifications as long as others credit you:
*** self|cc-by-4.0|Own work, Creative Commons Attribution 4.0
** Reserve no rights:
*** self|cc-zero|Own work, release into public domain under the CC-Zero license

* Freely licensed:
** cc-by-sa-4.0|Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0
** cc-by-4.0|Creative Commons Attribution 4.0

* Public domain:
** PD-old-100|Author died more than 100 years ago
** PD-old-100-1923|Author died more than 100 years ago AND the work was published before 1923
** PD-old-70-1923|Author died more than 70 years ago AND the work was published before 1923
** PD-old-70|Unclear-PD-US-old-70|Author died more than 70 years ago BUT the work was published after 1923
** PD-Art|Reproduction of a painting or other 2D work that is in the public domain because of its age – needs specification after uploading
** PD-US|First published in the United States before 1923
** PD-US-no notice|First published in the United States between 1923 and 1977 without a copyright notice
** PD-USGov|Original work of the US Federal Government
** PD-USGov-NASA|Original work of NASA
** PD-USGov-Military-Navy|Original work of the US Military Navy
** PD-ineligible|Too simple to be copyrighted
** subst:Template 2|PD-textlogo|Trademarked|Logo with only simple text (wordmark)

* Fair use:
**subst:rfu|Fair use image of a living person
**subst:rfu|Fair use image of an existing building
* Non-free / fair use - read WP:NONFREE before using any of the following tags:
** Non-free computer icon|Computer icon
** Non-free logo|Logo
** Non-free audio sample|Music sample
** Non-free promotional|Promotional material
** Non-free stamp|Fair use postage stamp, where copyright depends on country
*** Non-free USGov-USPS stamp|- U.S. postage stamp from 1978 or later
** Non-free currency|Image of currency that may be copyrighted
** Non-free historic image|Historically significant fair use (deceased persons or historic events)
** Covers:
*** Non-free album cover|Album or single cover
*** Non-free board game cover|Board game cover
*** Non-free book cover|Book cover
*** Non-free comic|Comic book stuff
*** Non-free video cover|DVD, Blu-Ray Disc, videotape, etc. cover
*** Non-free game cover|Video game cover
*** Non-free magazine cover|Magazine cover (can only be used in the article about the magazine)
*** Non-free newspaper image|Newspaper cover
** Posters:
*** Non-free poster|Any kind of poster
** Screenshots:
*** Non-free film screenshot|Movie screenshot
*** Non-free television screenshot|TV screenshot
*** Non-free title-card|Title card of a movie or TV series
*** Non-free game screenshot|Computer game or video game screenshot
*** Non-free music video screenshot|Music video or music promo screenshot
*** Non-free software screenshot|Software screenshot
**** Non-free Microsoft screenshot|- Screenshot of a Microsoft product
**** Non-free software screenshot|Screenshots of Windows software|- Windows software screenshot
**** Non-free software screenshot|Screenshots of Mac software|- Mac OS software screenshot
**** Non-free software screenshot|Screenshots of Linux software|- Linux software screenshot
*** Non-free web screenshot|Website layout screenshot
**** wikipedia-screenshot|Wikipedia web page screenshot

MediaWiki:Licenses

2019-11-25T21:19:22Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: Created page with "*subst:No license from license selector|Don't know|I do not know the license *subst:No license from license selector|Somewebsite|Found the image somewhere *subst:Permission fr..."

*subst:No license from license selector|Don't know|I do not know the license
*subst:No license from license selector|Somewebsite|Found the image somewhere
*subst:Permission from license selector|The copyright holder gave me permission to use this work only in Wikipedia articles
*subst:Non-commercial from license selector|The copyright holder only allows this work to be used for non-commercial and/or educational purposes
* Your own work:
** Allow non-commercial use, commercial use, and modifications as long as others credit you and share alike:
*** self|cc-by-sa-4.0|Own work, Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0
*** self|cc-by-sa-4.0,3.0,2.5,2.0,1.0|Own work, multi-license with CC-BY-SA-4.0 and older
*** self|cc-by-sa-4.0|GFDL|migration=not-eligible|Own work, multi-license with CC-BY-SA-4.0 and GFDL
** Allow non-commercial use, commercial use, and modifications as long as others credit you:
*** self|cc-by-4.0|Own work, Creative Commons Attribution 4.0
** Reserve no rights:
*** self|cc-zero|Own work, release into public domain under the CC-Zero license
* Freely licensed:
** cc-by-sa-4.0|Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0
** cc-by-4.0|Creative Commons Attribution 4.0
* Public domain:
** Copyright expired:
*** PD-old|Author died more than 100 years ago
*** PD-art|- Photo of a two-dimensional work whose author died more than 100 years ago
*** PD-US-expired|First published in the United States before January 1, 1924
** Not covered by copyright:
*** PD-USGov|Work of a U.S. government agency
*** PD-text|Simple typefaces, individual words or geometric shapes
*** PD-textlogo|Logos with only simple typefaces, individual words or geometric shapes
* Unacceptable fair use:
**subst:rfu|Fair use image of a living person
**subst:rfu|Fair use image of an existing building
* Non-free / fair use - read WP:NONFREE before using any of the following tags:
** Non-free computer icon|Computer icon
** Non-free logo|Logo
** Non-free audio sample|Music sample
** Non-free promotional|Promotional material
** Non-free stamp|Fair use postage stamp, where copyright depends on country
*** Non-free USGov-USPS stamp|- U.S. postage stamp from 1978 or later
** Non-free currency|Image of currency that may be copyrighted
** Non-free historic image|Historically significant fair use (deceased persons or historic events)
** Covers:
*** Non-free album cover|Album or single cover
*** Non-free board game cover|Board game cover
*** Non-free book cover|Book cover
*** Non-free comic|Comic book stuff
*** Non-free video cover|DVD, Blu-Ray Disc, videotape, etc. cover
*** Non-free game cover|Video game cover
*** Non-free magazine cover|Magazine cover (can only be used in the article about the magazine)
*** Non-free newspaper image|Newspaper cover
** Posters:
*** Non-free poster|Any kind of poster
** Screenshots:
*** Non-free film screenshot|Movie screenshot
*** Non-free television screenshot|TV screenshot
*** Non-free title-card|Title card of a movie or TV series
*** Non-free game screenshot|Computer game or video game screenshot
*** Non-free music video screenshot|Music video or music promo screenshot
*** Non-free software screenshot|Software screenshot
**** Non-free Microsoft screenshot|- Screenshot of a Microsoft product
**** Non-free software screenshot|Screenshots of Windows software|- Windows software screenshot
**** Non-free software screenshot|Screenshots of Mac software|- Mac OS software screenshot
**** Non-free software screenshot|Screenshots of Linux software|- Linux software screenshot
*** Non-free web screenshot|Website layout screenshot
**** wikipedia-screenshot|Wikipedia web page screenshot

IBLS Journal 1960

2018-07-12T15:19:18Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

Buss Sutch

2018-07-12T15:18:50Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

<gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrrow=2>
File:BuzzSutch LALS 19570505.jpg|[[Buzz Sutch]] riding as passenger on his 1-1/2 inch scale Atlantic at the [[Los Angeles Live Steamers]] Golden Spike event, 5 May 1957.
</gallery>

== External Links ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104694 "Buzz Such - Steel Boilers", Chaski.org]

Barry Hauge

2018-07-12T15:18:30Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

[[Barry Hauge]] was the founder and owner of [[Superscale Locomotive Company]] until his death, as well as a member of the [[Los Angeles Live Steamers]].

== Obituary ==
[[File:BarryHauge byMikeMassee clip.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Barry Hauge, circa 2016. Photo by Mike Massee]]
[[Barry Hauge|Barry]] passed away 7 December 2016. [https://www.facebook.com/groups/backyardrailroading/permalink/1197460783663267/ Mike Massee posted the following, 21 December 2016]:

Here is an expanded obituary for [[Barry Hauge]] of [[Superscale Locomotive Company|SuperScale]], compiled by Diana Manchester of [[Los Angeles Live Steamers|LALS]].

'''Master Design Engineer Barry Hauge Leaves Legacy'''

By Diana Manchester with [[Jim Kreider]], Hal Hoadley and Karl Hovanitz

A “perfectionist”, “genius”, “master craftsman”, “hobby pioneer”, “inspiration”, and “friend” are just a few of the many descriptions expressed by those who knew [[Superscale Locomotive Company|SuperScale’s]] proprietor and master engineer, [[Barry Hauge]].

Although a resident of Grover Beach, CA for the past 20+ years, Barry’s roots were in southern California. [[Jim Kreider]], a longtime member of LALSRM, reminisces about Barry’s pre-SuperScale days: “I first got to know Barry sometime in the early 1970’s when he was developing and testing his safety valves. We used to gather in Sun Valley at Truson Buegel’s garage where Truson was working on Tom Miller’s first locomotive, a Pacific, along with a set of [[Railroad Supply Corporation|Railroad Supply]] passenger cars. Barry was there, prototype-testing his safety valves with a small boiler borrowed from [[Charlie Dockstader]]. Barry was a perfectionist (the word ‘genius’ comes to mind). The safety valves had to consistently open and close with a sharp pop. Nothing short of that was acceptable and the design and machining had to work for every valve, not just some. In addition, the valves had to be a perfect scale model of a Consolidated 3-1/2” safety valve. ‘How nice,’ I thought, ‘just what this future Berkshire model needed.’“

Barry earned his mechanical engineering degree from USC. He initially worked for places like Bethlehem Steel, before founding his own company, [[Superscale Locomotive Company|SuperScale]] in 1975. LALSRM member and friend Hal Hoadley recalls the early days when Barry was involved at Railroad Supply: “Barry’s engineering drawings became legendary. It was while developing a lost wax water glass for the hobby when past [[Los Angeles Live Steamers|LALS]] president [[Chet Peterson|Chester Peterson]] stated ‘you super scale guys are driving me crazy!’ that led to Barry naming his business ‘[[Superscale Locomotive Company|SuperScale Locomotive Works]]’. That water glass was the first commercial use of the lost wax process for making fine scale parts for the hobby, and is still in his catalog.”

Barry designed and pioneered many highly-detailed scale parts for the live steam hobby.

Hal notes, “Barry was an early adopter of CNC equipment for the production of scale parts. Those same machines were in use right up to his passing. His development of a good “economy” injector to replace the temperamental ones from England led to them becoming the standard of the hobby.” He applied this process to the development of couplers and airbrake components, which also became widely used.

“When Barry started making his parts in the mid 1970’s there were no professionally-produced parts. Parts were made by live steam machinists in their home shops,” shared Karl Hovanitz of [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]]. “Barry made parts that were utterly reliable. He made our steam engines run. He was our savior.”

Hal described Barry’s recent goals, “Barry demonstrated for several years a working triple valve, and while never put into production, it is a fine example of his incredible machinist skills. Always the pioneer, at his passing Barry was investigating the use of 3D printing for making molds, thus allowing even finer details, often where they could not be seen.”

Barry was active in his business right up to the time of his death, during a surgery to repair his heart following a massive heart attack. Live steam friends commented on social media that they had spoken to him just days before his passing. He was known for being easy to get along with, and willing to converse at length with modelers about any technical issues they were experiencing. He will be sorely missed by the live steam community who expressed shock and sadness at his untimely demise at age 74.

: “I first met Barry as a kid hanging around LALS and having the great fortune to be able to simply listen and observe guys like Barry, Doug Alkire, Gene Allen, Glen Anderson, Jerry Brown, and others who were quick with a good story and even better advice. For a kid like me who found great role models and willing mentors, it filled a huge gap ... [Barry was] always an inspiration.” –Larry Fisher, [[Fisher Detail Foundry]]

: “Barry will be missed. He was a true artist working in metal.”– John Friend

: "I called him a few years back and we talked for quite a while about almost everything. Super friendly and nice guy. What a great man and amazing manufacturer. He made a lot of things happen for us live steamers.” – Charlie Giordano

: “Yesterday our hobby suffered the loss of a master craftsman and extremely talented machinist. Someone who truly set the bar for accuracy, detail, and performance.” – Anthony Ruiz Duarte

: “His contributions to the hobby cannot be overstated, and he will be greatly missed.” – Mike Massee

Karl Hovanitz confirmed that plans are in the works for a railroaders’ memorial at the February President's Day Meet at [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]] in Arroyo Grande. A family memorial will probably not happen until summer 2017. As for the future of [[Superscale Locomotive Company|SuperScale]], please be patient and updates will be given as the situation is sorted out in the coming months.

== Gallery ==

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:WestCoastLiveSteamers AlgieLittlepage 1981.jpg|Left to right.... Lew Soibelman, Jack Corrick, [[Jim Kreider]], Tom Miller, [[Barry Hauge]], [[Charlie Dockstader]]. Picture is from 1981. around a year of so before Tom's Big Boy was delivered.. Dick Bagley and I are out of frame. Photo by Algie Littlepage.
</gallery>

Arch

2018-07-12T15:18:10Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Definitions]]
[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]
[[File:StainlessSteelArch NKBerkshire 2013.jpg|thumb|right|400px|A stainless steel arch in an NKP Berkshire firebox (coal burner).]]

An [[Arch|arch]] is placed in the front third to half of the firebox. Prototype locomotives typically use brick for the arch, but live steam models most often use stainless steel.

The arch directs heat, flames, and smoke back over the fire towards the rear of the firebox. Visible smoke contains unburned combustible carbon particles and combustible gasses. The purpose of this redirection is to cause more complete combustion of these particles and gasses which make the locomotive more efficient and causes less visible smoke to be emitted from the stack. Without the arch, flames and visible smoke would be sucked straight into the firetubes without having been fully burned, causing visible smoke to be emitted at the stack, and also more soot to accumulate in the firetubes. The arch and its supports require periodic replacement due to the extreme heat they endure.

== Experiences ==

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208813 Doug Edwards posted on Chaski.org]

: I used to run a [[Martin Lewis|LE 4-4-0]] with an oil atomizer burner without an arch. We went to a pot burner, and ended up adding an arch that went about 3/4 of the way back to the back of the firebox. The arch, by lengthening the gas path, helped to insure the fuel finished burning before entering the flues. The flues would soot up much quicker without it.

: The arch was 1/4" mild steel, and lasted a number of years, even though rather warped. We had the arch initially too close to the back of the firebox, and the water glass would bubble like one of those old fashioned Christmas tree lights.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208745 John posted on Chaski.org]:

: I have built 3 oil fired engines and all had arches. The first two had cast refractory arches. My current engine ( a Shay ) has a SS plate 1/8" thick that works more like a deflector than an arch. It does the main purpose and that is to prevent the hot gases from short circuiting to the lower tubes.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208765 Brew posted on Chaski.org]:

: I have run my Allen American with and without an arch, here is my basic findings. I will add I run my engine hard and just about always on the edge of its abilities

: Firing on oil, Pre install, heavy soot with firing the boiler hard while pushing its limits. Flue cleaning needed every 4 to 6 hours under fire. Fuel usage was around one gallon an hour.

: Post install, much lighter sooting problem and can get as much as 24 hours between flue cleaning. Fuel usage was down to one gallon any two hours.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208794 Paul posted on Chaski.org]

: I run a 2.5 inch scale K36 with an arch. I started off with 1/4 inch [[SS]] but found that it only lasted 2 years. I now get 18 months or more out of mild steel if I weld 2 plates together. I have never run without one but I suspect the fire would clog and burn out my bottom tubes - 9 years on the ends of the tubes do not have any burning compared that what I have seen on loco's without an arch. I burn at most 50 kg of coal over a 6 hour period hauling a train of 50 - 70 passengers most of the time.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=89675&p=208774&hilit=removable+arch#p208809 Bill Wilkins posted on Chaski.org]:

: I ran with arches until the last run of last year. It was easier to fire without them. I was into the safeties almost all day, and using a blacksmith coal that was not good coal.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=97088#p287801 ccvstmr posted on Chaski.org]:

: I've had a piece of stainless arch in my 10 wheeler for 13 years. It may be discolored, but it's still doing the job. Last time I had the boiler off (about 6 years ago)...there was little deformation. Make the arch sheet as wide as you can fit in the firebox and still clear any weld "buds" from the stay bolts. For mounting...my arch is attached to the frame. Dimensions...my arch is about 1/2 to 2/3's as long as the firebox. I left an opening above the arch to the crown sheet that was approx. 10% of the grate area.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94141#p327594 NP317 posted on Chaski.org]:

: My propane-burning 1/8th scale steamer has an angled stainless steel arch in the firebox plate causing a lengthening of the combustion path. The gas/flame path moves aft and upwards around the rear of the arch plate and then forward under the crown sheet towards the tube sheet. A 3/8" gap on both sides allows some combustion flow directly on the side sheets to maximize radiant heating. If the arch plate heats enough to glow orange, it provides addition radiant heat transfer to the firebox, where 60% - 75% of heat transfer occurs in full-sized locomotive boilers.

== External Links ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=79055 "Firebox Arch", Chaski.org]

Headlight

2018-07-12T15:17:40Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* External Links */

[[Category:Diesel Locomotive Parts]]
[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]

[[File:EMD F7A locomotive.jpg|thumb|center|400px|An EMD F7A locomotive with a Mars light (in the painted yellow area below the headlight). Photographed at the Tennessee Central Railway Museum, Nashville, TN, USA, in December 2012.]]

== External Links ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=99157 "Mercer Sunbeam Headlight", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=99977&sid=c1ebc2eaee684d1bd8dcc473626786c3 "Sunbeam Headlight Progress", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=99600 Scale Pyle National Headlight for 3D Printing, Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=101068 "Sunbeam Headlight Update", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=103097 "3/4" scale Pyle National Headlights", Chaski.org]
* [https://grabcad.com/library/ironcad-2015-train-headlamp-1 3D CAD files for simple Sunbeam headlight]

Ridge Boiler

2018-07-12T15:17:12Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Policy Change March 2015 */

[[Category:Suppliers]]

See also [[Allen Models of Michigan]].

== Name Change ==
[[File:RidgeBoiler MartyKnow 2017.JPG|thumb|right|300px|A completed boiler at the shops of [[Ridge Boiler]].]]

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=105229&sid=c5f0fda36bceaa9eead61dfffa57b0d5 Marty Knox posted the following on Chaski.org]

: Ridge Locomotive Works is now Ridge Boiler

: With the number of boilers I have built closing in on 300, and the number of locomotives only at 17, I am changing the business name to better reflect reality. The website has always been http://RidgeBoiler.com, since it is easier to type boiler than locomotive. I have now filed the paperwork to legally use the name Ridge Boiler.

== Policy Change March 2015 ==

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=101033 Marty Knox posted the following on Chaski.org]:

: I am changing some of my policies and procedures. There are certain boilers I consider 'Standard', all of the Allen Models and Railroad Supply. These I will be doing in batches and selling for a set price. I will no longer give firm quotes for custom boilers - I will only do these on a time and materials basis.

== External Links ==

* [http://www.ridgeboiler.com/ Official website]

<img src="http://free.pagepeeker.com/v2/thumbs.php?size=x&url=ridgeboiler.com" />

Joseph F Nelson

2018-07-12T15:16:28Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

== PRR K-4 ==

P.R.R. K-4

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 6

Joe Nelson of Los Angeles sends us this photo of his K-4 Pacific. Except for a reservoir under the left running board and the lettering, the engine as shown was on the rails under steam 22 months after starting construction. The specifications are as follows.

* Scale: 1 inch
* Type: Pennsylvania Rail Road K-4 Pacific
* Weight in running order: 379 pounds
* Weight dry: 295 pounds
* Operating pressure: 105 pounds
* Fuel: hard coal
* Bore & Stroke: 1-5/8 inch by 2-5/16 inch
* Valves: Piston, 7/8 OD 9/16 travel
* Boiler: Belpaire - Steel
* Max boiler OD: 7-1/2 inch, 8 inch over lagging
* Grate Area: 6 by 9-1/2 inches
* Tubes: 5/8 inch OD, quantity 20
* Boiler capacity: 2-3/4 gallons
* Tender capacity: 5.65 gallons & 14-1/2 pounds fuel
* Tractive effort: 31.4 pounds
* Weight on drivers: 148-1/2 pounds
* Weight on leading truck: 50 pounds
* Weight on trailing truck: 49-1/2 pounds

== Bibliography ==

* "[[So You Want To Build A Live Steam Locomotive]]"
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Table of Contents", Live Steam, October 1966
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Questions Comonly Asked the Live Steam Locomotive Builder", Live Steam, November 1966
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Overall Design: Prototype or Freelance", Live Steam, December 1966
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Tools Required to Build a Live Steam Locomotive", Live Steam, January 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Engineering Data", Live Steam, March 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Frames", Live Steam, April, 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Wheels, Tread and Gauge", Live Steam, June 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Journals and Journal Boxes", Live Steam, August 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Shop Safety Precautions", Live Steam, September 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Cylinders and Their Moving Parts", Live Steam, October 1967
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Boiler: Features and Design Part 3", Live Steam, May 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Boiler: Features and Design Part 4", Live Steam, June 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Boiler: Features and Design Part 5", Live Steam, July 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Smokebox Throttle Part 6", Live Steam, August 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Fabricating the Copper Boiler Part 7", Live Steam, September 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 1", Live Steam, October 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 2", Live Steam, November 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 3", Live Steam, December 1968
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 4", Live Steam, January 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 5", Live Steam, February 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 6", Live Steam, March 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 7", Live Steam, April 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 8", Live Steam, May 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 9", Live Steam, June 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Valve Gear Part 10", Live Steam, August 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Feed Water System", Live Steam, September 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Feed Water System", Live Steam, October 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Tender Part 1", Live Steam, December 1969
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Tender Part 2", Live Steam, January 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Plumbing Part 1", Live Steam, February 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Plumbing Part 2", Live Steam, March 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Plumbing Part 3", Live Steam, April 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Plumbing Part 4", Live Steam, May 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Brakes Part 1", Live Steam, June 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Brakes Part 2", Live Steam, August 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Brakes Part 3", Live Steam, September 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Brakes Part 4", Live Steam, October 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Brakes Part 5", Live Steam, November 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Fuel and Combustion", Live Steam, December 1970
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Case for Propane", Live Steam, January 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive: Oil Firing Your Locomotive", Live Steam, February 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 1: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, March 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 2: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, April 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 3: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, May 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 4: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, June 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 5: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, July 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 6: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, August 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 7: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, September 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 8: Metal Etching", Live Steam, November 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 9: Tools, Methods, Accessories", Live Steam, December 1971
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 10: Steam Whistle", Live Steam, January 1972
* "So You Want to Build a Live Steam Locomotive Part 16: Steam Whistle", Live Steam, February 1972

== External Links ==

* [http://www.lals.org/galleries/BLSMeet_1975/content/Page_82_large.html Joe Nelson and his 1 inch scale Pennsy K4S at LALS 1975 BLS Meet]

File:John Cassady and his 1969 LE Atlantic circa 1971 at his track near Orlando FL.jpg

2018-07-12T15:12:43Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

John Cassady and his 1969 Atlantic circa 1971 at his track near Orlando FL. Photo by Bruce Raykiewicz.

John Cassady

2018-07-12T15:12:28Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

== Gallery ==

<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
File:John Cassady and his 1969 LE Atlantic circa 1971 at his track near Orlando FL.jpg|John Cassady and his 1969 Atlantic circa 1971 at his track near Orlando FL.
</gallery>

Buddy L

2018-07-12T15:12:07Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Buddy L Rail */

[[Category:Suppliers]]

[[Buddy L]] made such products as toy cars, dump trucks, delivery vans, fire engines, construction equipment and trains. Fred Lundahl, founder of the company, started his business by manufacturing pressed steel parts for International Harvester trucks. He ventured into the toy business by making a toy dump truck out of steel scraps for his son Buddy. Soon after, he started selling Buddy L "toys for boys", made of pressed steel.

== Buddy L Rail ==

Buddy L Rail was manufactured (rolled) by Bethlehem Steel Company. It was designed for the 3/4 inch scale Buddy-L trains. The rail is 5/8 inch high.

<gallery widths=300px heights=300px>
File:BuddyL Rail BethlehemSteelCo 1.jpg
File:BuddyL Rail BethlehemSteelCo 2.jpg
File:BuddyL Rail BethlehemSteelCo 3.jpg
File:BuddyL Rail BethlehemSteelCo 4.jpg
</gallery>

== External Links ==

* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buddy_L "Buddy L", Wikipedia]

Gauge 3

2018-07-12T15:11:46Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Standards]]
[[Category:History]]

From [http://www.cumberlandmodelengineering.com/Gauge3History.html Cumberland Model Engineering]:

: [[Gauge 3]] represents the 4 foot 8.5 inch standard gauge trains of the real world in 1:22.6 scale with a model track gauge of 2.5 inch (63.5mm) between the rails; and from this perspective, as a scale-and-gauge combination, it is spot on. [[Gauge 3]] has a long history, in fact a very long history, as model trains go, dating back to 1891 when it was among four original model track gauges created by pioneering German toy maker Marklin (Gauges 1, 2, 3 and 4). Known more commonly in the United States as simply 1/2 inch scale or 2.5 inch gauge, it was very popular among live steam enthusiasts during the 1920s, 30s, and 40s. During this period, what we may call the "golden age" of [[Gauge 3]], several locomotive kits were offered by [[Martin Lewis]], [[Harry Coventry|H. J. Coventry]], and [[Charles A. Purinton|Carl Purinton]] among others.

== External Links ==

* [http://www.cumberlandmodelengineering.com/Gauge3History.html "A Brief History of Gauge 3", Cumberland Model Engineering]

Mac Widmeyer

2018-07-12T15:11:23Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
File:MacWidmeyer pre1960.PNG|A wider shot of Mac Widmeyer and his Pacific on the Potomac Valley Lines.
</gallery>

[http://hck.stparchive.com/page_image.php?paper=HCK&year=2015&month=10&day=7&page=10&mode=F&base=HCK10072015P10&title=The%20Hancock%20News The Hancock News]

Wednesday, October 7, 2015

[[File:Widmeyer2400 post restoration.PNG|thumb|right|300px|Locomotive 2400 after restoration by Bob Diehl in 2012. Photo by John Walker.]]
Some Hancock residents may remember hearing the shrill of a steam locomotive whistle, but it was not emanating from the Western Maryland Railroad that once ran through town.

This whistle came from the Widmeyer brothers backyard and their 1-1/2 inch scale, live steam engine number 2400 as it chugged around their home just off Maryland Route 144.

Completed in 1950, the 1,100 pound scale miniature of a real life 4-6-2 Pacific type locomotive measuring just over seven feet in length was constructed in the Widmeyer brothers' garage/shop using castings and components from [[Irene Lewis]] of Lomita, California.

The locomotive was painted black with a silver graphite smoke box and lettered Potomac Valley Lines in deluxe gold.

According to Hancock historians, the Widmeyer brothers, Home and Mac, operated their backyard railroad until the locomotive was sold to Jack Walley, who then moved it to Kansas City, Missouri, in 1960.

It was later sold to an individual in Idaho, then to Edmund Diehl who acquired Locomotive 2400 in 1989.

[[File:Widmeyers and friends.PNG|thumb|right|400px|Left to right: T. Guy Reynolds, Sr., a machinist on the B&O Railroad; T. Guy Reynolds, Jr., and electrical and mechanical engineer; J. Homer Widmeyer, John H. "Johnny" Widmeyer, seated on the train; and Mac (Malvin) Widmeyer stands and looks over Locomotive 2400 the Widmeyer brothers constructed.]]
Diehl had [[Irene Lewis]] overhaul the boiler while he and two friends completely disassembled the locomotive to repair over 30 years of wear and tear. It was then repainted during the winder of 1995. Once the locomotive was overhauled, 2400 was frequently operated at the [[Chesapeake & Allegheny Live Steamers]] Club located in Baltimore.

Diehl gave 2400 to his son Robert who moved it to his home in Arizona where he reboilered the engine again and did a complete cosmetic makeover turning Locomotive 2400 into a Santa Fe or AT&SF locomotive.

Banning Locomotive Works, LLC

2018-07-12T15:10:25Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Suppliers]]

== External Links ==

* [http://www.banninglocomotiveworks.com Official website]
* [http://www.facebook.com/Banning-Locomotive-Works Facebook page]

<img src="http://free.pagepeeker.com/v2/thumbs.php?size=x&url=www.banninglocomotiveworks.com" />

Bill Oberpriller's Minnie

2018-07-12T15:09:50Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Construction]]

[[Minnie 2]] is a freelance 2-4-2 live steam locomotive designed by Bill Oberpriller. Bill offered the locomotive in kit form between 1998 and 2004. He no longer produces the kit. These pages have been "rescued" from Archive.org.

[[File:BillOberpriller and MinnieII.jpg|thumb|right|500px|Bill Oberpriller and his Minnie]]
[[File:Bret Kuebar Engine13 Minnie2.jpg|thumb|right|500px|Bret Kueber's Engine #13's "Official" Builder's Photo (S/N 1001 Russell Locomotive Works). This is based on Bill Oberpriller's "Minnie" design.]]

== Bill Oberpriller ==

'''"MINNIE"'''

''2-4-2 CONSTRUCTION PROJECT''

''7.5 inch or 7.25 inch Free-Lance Narrow Gauge Coal Burning Live Steamer''

How long will it take and how much will it cost to build the Minnie? The time and cost are only estimates at this time, but are based on over thirty years of starting many, many many projects and actually finishing a couple. If you have basic machine shop skills, you should be able to put the engine on the track in as little as 500 hours. Depending on whether you build the boiler or have it built for you, plan to spend between $2,500 and $4,000 (year 2000 estimate).

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie color1.gif|Minnie color side view, drawn by Bill Oberpriller.
File:Miniie erection color.gif|Minnie erection drawing, by Bill Oberpriller.
</gallery>

=== Design Changes ===

DATE : June 26, 1998

The Minnie project is going through some major design changes. I am simplifying the design to use less parts that require machining. The frame is being redesigned to be punched out on a CNC punch press. The frame will be able to be assembled in a week-end using a drill press and hand tools. Same with the tender. Because I need a tender for the proto-type, I will be building the tender next. I will start with the trucks which are the [[Cannonball Ltd]] arch bar trucks. I chose them because they are the easiest to build trucks on the market. And at $175 for the kit, the cheapest.

In my quest of a good reliable feed water system, I went through every device known to man. Injectors, axle pumps, hand pumps, steam driven pumps, and cross head pumps. The one that stands way out in front is the adaption of a pressure washer pump. The pressure washer pump being rather large is mounted in the tender and is driven by a chain to the tender truck axle. A simple clutch allows the pump to be cranked so that water can be supplied to the boiler while the engine is static. So, on with the design and construction of the tender.

=== Know Your Limitations ===

If you are a first time builder, select an engine that is small with as few parts as possible. The more parts, the longer it will take before you can roll it onto the track. The bigger the project, the less likely it will ever be completed. The ratio of projects started compared to the projects completed is probably as high as 100:1.

If your budget is limited as mine is, select a project with as few parts as possible. Less parts translates into less cost. Ask yourself if you are willing to spend the time required to finish the project. Even the simplest of locomotives will take a minimum of a year of your spare time. If you are not an experienced machinist, purchase the complicated parts such as cylinders, drivers, etc. already machined. Unless you want to be punished, buy the boiler already built. Select the proper gauge. Over 90% of the track on the ground in the US is 7.5" gauge.

=== The Beginning ===

This is the first engine I built. It originally started as a Mogul. I did not know my limitations when I started the Mogul. After reading the catalogs, I actually believed that I would be able to build an engine with a 9" lathe and a milling attachment. The only castings used are the pilot, smoke box saddle, stack mount, and the wheels. This engine is now owned by Ray Heaton III, pictured with his engine.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:BillOberprillers Raritan2x.jpg|Bill Oberpriller's first steam locomotive, a 2x size Raritan. [[Ray Heaton|Ray Heaton III]] stands next to the locomotive.
</gallery>

The fore runner to the Minnie turned out to be too big and heavy to move around and transport easily. Hence the design of the Minnie.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:BillOberprillers Big3x Minnie.jpg
</gallery>

=== Frame Kit ===

With the addition of the punch press and press brake to our shop, I have re-designed the Minnie. As the pictures show, I have fabricated as many parts for the frame using .125 sheet metal. The complete frame can be assembled in a week-end.

1/4 inch bar stock is sandwiched between the two punched frames making the frame 1/2 inch thick. The rear axle is ridged and the bearings are held in place using the plates in the lower row. An equalizer assembly is fabricated from the parts above them for the front axle. The bearings used are needle bearings 1.5 inch [[OD]] by 1 inch [[ID]] 3/4 inch wide.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:BillOberpriller FrameKit2.jpg
</gallery>

As can be seen, the frame was extended to eliminate the apron casting as used on the Allen Mogul. The smoke box saddle casting, and smoke box castings will also be eliminated. These items will be fabricated similar to the way the frame is fabricated. The goal for the newly designed Minnie is to eliminate as many machined parts as possible without compromising the looks or performance of the engine. By doing so, a builder with minimal shop equipment and skills will be able to get the engine on track within a year compared to 3 to 5 years for most building times.

Not shown in the pictures, but part of the kit is the bar stock required. Also the equalizer assembly will be jig welded.

=== Frame Construction ===

The bearings for the driver axles used are Torrington needle bearings. Part # B-2012 for the outer race and part # IR-1612 OH for the inner race. The dimensions of the bearing is 1.5 inch [[OD]], 1 inch [[ID]], by 3/4 inch wide. The bearings are available from bearing suppliers and [[Allen Models]]. I purchased them from a bearing supplier for a cost of about $72.00 for four and from Allen Models for about $78.00. As an option to save on the cost, bronze bushings of the same size can be used with satisfactory results.

The frames are punched in pairs. Any warpage from punching will be canceled out when they are assembled. Assemble so that the rounded side is to the outside of the assembly. Make a left and a right.

The holes punched in the frame are .160 inch. Clamp the bar stock onto one of the frames and transfer drill holes through the bar stock. The matching frame will be tapped for 10-32. After drilling with the .160 inch drill, drill out the holes with a #7 drill. Trim the bar stock ends after the holes have been drilled.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie-Con-Frame1.jpg
</gallery>

The lower image shows the bar stock in place prior to drilling.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie=Con-Frame5.jpg
</gallery>

Using a two flue "gun" tap in a battery powered screw driver/drill on the low speed makes short work of tapping the side frame. Use a liberal amount of cutting oil when using this method of tapping.

The bar stock is transfer drilled from the outside frame member using a 0.160 inch drill. The holes in the frame member and bar stock are then enlarged using a #7 drill. Although the #10 drill is listed as a clearance drill for a #10 screw, the industry standard for work of this nature is a #7. The holes that are counter sunk are noted on the drawing on page two. Except for the holes noted on the drawing on page 2, tap the holes on the inside frame member with a 10-32 tap

Frame shown assembled using 10-32 flat head screws.

UPDATE: OCTOBER 17, 1998. It was pointed out to me today that I didn't mention in the instructions that the top bar has to be notched out to match the cut-out in the frame so that the equalizer will pivot freely up and down approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch.

<gallery widths="600px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie frame hole layout.jpg
</gallery>

The equalizer weldment assembly will come as shown as part of the frame kit.

<gallery widths="600px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie frame journals.jpg
File:Minnie frame bars.jpg
</gallery>

Below is shown the frame with the rear axle bearing retaining plates installed. The outer plates are tapped for 10-32 threads. The rest of the plates and the frame are drilled throught with a #7 drill. Use 1/8 inch by 1 inch steel angle and 10-32 screws and nuts to assemble the frame. The last time I was at Home Depot, I noticed they had three foot lengths of steel angle.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie frame skirt.jpg
File:Minnie frame rear journal.jpg
File:Minnie frame equalizer.jpg
</gallery>

The equalizer pivot pin is secured to the angle frame members with a piece of 1/4-20 threaded rod. You could also use a bolt of the correct length.

The journal boxes need to be trimmed so that the equalizer pivots freely. A belt sander works good for tasks like this.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie Rear Frame 03.gif
</gallery>

The blue is the 1/4 inch by 1 inch, the red is the 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch, and the green is the 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch bar stock. The four holes through the 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch (green) bar stock and frames are the only holes that require flat head screws. Use round head screws for the rest of the holes as some of these holes will be used to secure additional items when the reverse quadrant and ash pan etc. are installed.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie frame extension.JPG
File:Minnie apron plate.gif|Apron Plate and Front Truck Pivot Plate
</gallery>

The above drawing shows the placement of the the apron plate and the front truck pivot plate. Note that the apron plate aligns with the end of the frame. The 1 inch by 6.5 inch piece used to assemble the frame will be discarded when the bolster is installed.

=== Tender Trucks ===

The [[Cannonball Ltd|Cannonball]] Arch Bar Trucks were selected for use on the tender because of their cost and ease of construction. Prior to putting the wheels on the axles it will have to be decided whether the builder will be using a pressure washer pump mounted in the tender as a source of feed water. If so, and I strongly recommend this method of delivering water to the boiler under pressure, sprockets will have to be added to one of the axles on each of the trucks. For more information on this, see the section on the Feed Water System.

<gallery widths="600px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie tender truck castings.jpg
File:Minnie tender truck chain gears.jpg
</gallery>

1. Castings for the Arch Bar Trucks. The only real machining required on these trucks are the wheels. The frame and bolster castings can be filed to shape using a coarse half round file.

2. The chain and sprockets that will be used for the feed water system.

3. Lathe setup for turning wheels.

4. Begin machining the casting by taking a cut approximately .02 to .03 deep at about 200 rpm if you are using carbide or about 100 to 150 rpm if you are using HSS for a cutting tool. If you use [[HSS]] you will have to dress up the tool often as the cast iron crust really tears up the edge. The tool will start to "sing" as it gets dull.

5. Bring the thickness of the wheel down to about 0.880 inch by taking a finishing pass or two. DO NOT REMOVE the wheel from the chuck until it is drilled. Speed the lathe up to about 350 for the drilling. Center drill the wheel with a large center drill.

6. Drill a 1/2 inch hole through the casting. Start the drill slow to ensure that the drill stays centered.

7. Enlarge the hole to 0.530 - 0.540 inch. Use a drill that has not been sharpened by hand for drilling the holes in the wheels. If you are careful, the holes will be dead center when you are finished.

8. Finally slow the lathe to the slowest speed it will go and ream to .562. The holes are at 90 degrees to the back side of the wheel and they will run true without any wobble. Remove the casting from the chuck, and repeat the procedure on the other 7 castings.

=== Machining the Driver Wheels ===

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie driver1.gif
File:Minnie Driver dimensions.gif
File:Minnie driver tread.gif
</gallery>

The castings for the drivers are almost 1 inch wide. The procedure I use is to first chuck the driver in a four jaw chuck so I can face off the back first. This will make the back parallel with the front face of the casting. I then turn the casting over and take off just enough to get a smooth surface on the front face of the driver. For ease of machining I turn the entire face of the driver to the same plane. This makes it much easier to mount the driver in the chuck or on the face plate with out having to shim the tire if the counter weight was left an 1/8 i nch wider than the tire. I then find the center of the axle hole and drill 3/16 inch pilot hole. This allows me to find the center of the wheel when I turn the wheel over in the chuck for finish facing the back and boring the axle hole. The operation for finish facing the back and boring the axle hole should be done at the same time to insure that the axle hole will be perpendicular the the back face of the driver.

On a previous set of drivers, I finished the back of the drivers and bored the axle hole without paying attention to the finished width of the driver. When I went to finish off the front of the driver, I found I was having to take off too much of the front face to reduce the driver to the desired width. Finish the front of the driver the way you want it first before addressing the back face.

=== Machining the Driver Axles ===

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie Driver Axle.gif
</gallery>

The Axles for the drivers are turned from 1" CRS bar stock. The key ways are machined 90 degrees from each other. Make sure when making the axles that both of them are the same. It is easy to get the keyways mixed up. The key ways shown are for 1/4" keys. To assure that the keys line up, bothwheels should be broached at the same time. Put the wheels back to back with a 3/4" pin throught the crank hole. Put a broaching bushing through the axle hole. If you use this method, it doesn't matter where the key way is, they will always be lined up with each other. Mark the wheels in sets so that they don't get mixed up after the key ways have been broached.

To insure that the axle key ways are 90 degrees to each other, machine two square blocks 2" to 2.5" X .5" with a 1" hole in the center. I used aluminum to make mine. Machine the blocks together so they are the same. Drill and tap for a set screw in each of the blocks. Mount the blocks on the axle so they fit in the milling machine vise. Machine one key way, turn the axle block assembly 90 degrees, and machine the other key way. This will insure that the key ways are 90 degrees to each other.

The axle is held centered in the frame with either snap rings or collars. Either one will work equally well, collars can be made from bar stock or purchased ready made.

I will add some pictures at a latter time.

The wheels can be held on to the axles either by making the axles approximately 0.001 inch bigger than the holes in the wheel, or make the axles so that the wheels slip fit on the axle and use Loctite to hold the wheels on. If you use the Loctite method, use the red Loctite. When removing wheels held on with Loctite heat the joint with a propane torch until the Loctite gets soft, and pull the wheel off. Do not use a wheel puller when removing wheels. It is easy to break the flange on the wheel. Press the axles out with an arbor press.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie Driver Axle Oil hole.gif
File:Minnie Driver Axle Snap ring.gif
</gallery>

==== The Oil Hole ====

The end of the axle is drilled and tapped for a 10-32 set screw. The cross hole is drilled so that it lines up with the center of the bearing. As you will notice, the inner race has a groove so it doesn't matter where the cross hole ends up as long as it is some where in the groove of the inner race.

==== The Snap Ring Groove ====

The snap ring groove is approximately 0.04 to 0.05 inches deep. It should be just a little wider than the snap ring. The rings I have are about 0.045 inches thick. The groove should be just a little to the inside of the bearing retainer plate on the rear axle and a little on the inside of the inside equalizer plate. There should be just enough clearance so the snap ring doesn't drag against the plates when the axle is rotated. Up to 0.01 inch clearance is OK. 0.05 inch clearance is sufficient. The easiest way to find the location of the snap ring groove is to install the axle centering it up in the bearings and scribe a line on the axle using the retaining plates as a guide.

=== Front Crank Pin ===

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie front crank pin.gif
File:Minnie crank pin and cap.gif
</gallery>

The crank pins are turned from 1 inch [[CRS]] bar stock. There are two ways of installing the pins. One is to leave the end that goes into the driver about 0.001 inch larger than the hole in the driver. The pin is then pressed into the driver. Once installed the only way it can be removed is to press it out. The other is to make the pin a slip fit into the driver and Loctite it in with red Loctite during final assembly. I prefer the later method. This allows me to make the pin a little longer than the drawing shows, and turn it down to the proper length after the side rods are finished. This is especially desirable for the pins installed in the rear drivers. If your concern is that the pins will become loose during operation if they are held in with Loctite, fear not, pins held in with red Loctite are harder to remove than the ones that are just pressed in.

The Cap is made from a piece of 1 inch [[CRS]] or brass. It is drilled for a clearance hole (0.201 inch) for a 10-32 cap screw. It is also counter bored for the head of the cap screw which is about 0.312 inch. I use ordinary drill bits when counter boring for cap screws. Counter bore the hole with the 0.312 inch drill until the head is flush with the face of the cap. On final assembly, use a little blue Loctite on the screw to secure it.

=== Kit #2 ===

Kit #2 is now available. Included in kit #2, but not shown will be the reverse quadrant and reverse lever.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie-kit2-5.jpg
File:Minnie frame assembled.JPG
File:Minnie-kit2-1.jpg
File:Minnie-kit2-4.jpg
</gallery>

=== Kit #3 ===

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie-kit3-1.jpg
</gallery>

=== Catalog of Kits and Services ===

* Frame Kit- Section 1
** Section #1 includes all of the punched parts needed to assemble both the front and aft frame. The includes the frame rails for the main frame, and the pieces needed to assemble the frame extension. It also includes the apron plate, front truck pivot plate, and the boiler mounting plates.
* Frame Kit- Section 2
** Includes the equalizer assembly, the front truck, the aft bearing retainer plates, the rocker plates, the crosshead yoke, the reverse quadrant and reversing arm, the aft axle journals, links and anything else I may have forgotten that is required to build the chassis. With the addition of the [[Allen Models|Allen]] castings and the bar stock parts, the builder will be able to complete the locomotive to the point that it will run on air.
* Smoke Box and Smoke Box Saddle
** You can order the smoke box with the Allen smoke box door casting machined to fit the smoke box.
* Cab
** This kit includes all of the parts punched and formed to make the cab. The only parts the builder has to fabricate are the window sills and moldings.
* Tender
** The tender is made as a dry shell and has a welded stainless steel water tank. The tank is easily removed for cleaning.
* Stainless Steel Water Tank
** The tender is a dry shell with a stainless steel water tank. Stainless steel fittings with 1/4 pipe threads are welded in place making for easy plumbing to the tank.
* Cylinders Machined to stage #1
* Cylinders Machined to stage #2
** For those of you wanting fully machined ready to run cylinder sets which will include the cross heads. I will provide these as special order items. This will include the cylinders, the cylinder heads, the pistons, the piston rods, the steam chests, the steam chest covers, the slide valves, the crosshead slides, and the crossheads. 6 month lead time.
* Drivers Machined
** Includes the cost of the castings.
* Boiler, tested to 250 psi
** The boiler has an unconditional money back guarantee for the first 30 days and a limited money back guarantee for 5 years. The limited guarantee is similar to a tire guarantee. Usage will be prorated over the 5 year period. As an example; if after one year usage the purchaser decides to return the boiler, a return of 4/5ths of the purchase price will be refunded. A realistic life span for a steel boiler is 10+ years if stored empty. Twenty-five years would not be unrealistic if the boiler is stored full of a rust inhibiting fluid such as automotive anti-freeze or a water soluble cutting fluid.

A Word About Boilers.

The boiler I am offering for sale is not certified by any authority. It is not built to any standard. It is built based on the experience I have acquired over the past 20 years. It is built with safety as the first consideration. I have seen many boilers using the same building principals that I use with no known failures resulting in any injuries. The safety factor of the the construction is over 10 times what would be considered safe for the intended pressures. Using coal, oil, or propane for firing under normal conditions it would be impossible to build a fire hot enough to cause a structural failure. There are no known incidents of boiler "explosions" using this type of construction. If state or local laws require that your boiler be certified, have a certified boiler maker fabricate the boiler for you.

The construction is a 8 inch steel seamless mechanical tube with a 1/4 inch wall thickness. The plates are 1/4 inch thick hot rolled steel plate. The flue tubes are 1 inch [[OD]] by 0.120 inch wall thickness 4130 welded into the flue sheets. Welded 4130 steel flue tubes were chosen over rolled copper so that prolonged operation at water levels below the crown sheet would not result in flue tube failure. With copper flue tubes rolled in, operation of the boiler with the tubes un-covered with water even for a short period of time will result in the tubes developing leaks. This would require that the tubes be re-rolled or replaced to stop the leaks.

=== Allen Castings Required ===

With the completion of the frame, it is time to start hanging the running gear onto the frame. Following is a list of castings from [[Allen Models]] that can be used for the running gear. For the innovative builder many of the castings listed could be machined from bar stock. However, for the first time builder I recommend using the Allen castings.

* Eccentrics, part # M118/5, four will be used for the valve gear, and one will be used for the axle pump.
* Eccentric Straps, part # M188/5, four for the valve gear, one for the axle pump.
* Rocker Arms, part # M190/4,
* Lifter Links, part # M191/2,
* Lifter Arm, part # M192/1
* Shaft Bearings, part # M194/2
* Reverse Arm, part # M196/1
* Cylinder Blocks, part #M156/2
* Cylinder Back Heads, part #M157/2
* Cylinder Front Heads, part # M158/2
* Steam Chests, part #M160/2
* Steam Chest Tops, part #M161/2
* Slide Valves, part #M163/2
* Pistons, part #M164/2, I do not use the Allen pistons, I prefer to build the pistons using three pieces.
* Piston Rings, part # M162/4, I have used the Allen Rings and rubber "O" rings with satisfactory result. This is the builders choice and will not have to be made until the time comes for making the pistons.
* Cross Heads, part # M150/2
* Drivers, part # D/1, Make sure you point out when ordering these that you insure that Allen Models understands that you are ordering the drivers with the square counter weight. On my last order they sent the half moon style.
* Pilot and Trailing Wheels, part # D/2, these are the 4 inch spoke wheels.

=== Drawings ===

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie cylinder drawings.gif|Cylinders
File:Minnie cab frame draft.gif|Cab underframe (draft)
</gallery>

* [http://ibls.org/files/2016/BillOberprillerMinnie/Minnie_Cab_Drawing.png Minnie Cab (PNG)]
* [http://ibls.org/files/2016/BillOberprillerMinnie/Minnie_Cab_Drawing.dwf Minnie Cab (DWF)]
* [http://ibls.org/files/2016/BillOberprillerMinnie/Minnie_Tender.png Minnie Tender (PNG)]
* [http://ibls.org/files/2016/BillOberprillerMinnie/Minnie_Tender.dwf Minnie Tender (DWF)]
* [http://ibls.org/files/2016/BillOberprillerMinnie/Minnie_Smoke_Box.png Minnie Smoke Box (PNG)]
* [http://ibls.org/files/2016/BillOberprillerMinnie/Minnie_Smoke_Box.dwf Minnie Smoke Box (DWF)]

== Bret Kueber ==

Bret Kueber published the following photos of his version of Minnie in 2000.

: Bill Oberpriller provided us with fantastic tech support via Email, and his products are first rate. [[Allen Models]], What can I say, [[Gene Allen|Gene]] has been extremely helpful, and my order ALWAYS arrived promptly. We never had a problem with any of the castings we purchased from him.

: # 13 (2-4-2) Coal Fired Columbia Class steam locomotive (Built 5/1999)

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Bret Kuebar Engine13 Minnie2.jpg|Engine #13's "Official" Builder's Photo (S/N 1001 Russell Locomotive Works). This is based on Bill Oberpriller's "Minnie" design.
File:Bret Kuebar Engine13 Minnie2 FrostyHollow.jpg|Bret Keuber's Minnie Number 13. Fall running at Frosty Hollow on the P. D. C. R. R.
File:Minnie Brett Ride.jpg
</gallery>

== Jim Cook ==

Jim Cook published the following build log for his Minnie in 2002.

=== Frame ===

This design first appealed to me because of its general shape. To me, it looks as if it is an engine from the last half of the 1800's. The diamond stack, large headlight and cow catcher gives it character.

From a first time builder's point of view, the 2-4-2 configuration fits well. All the castings will be from the tried and true [[Allen Models]]. The designer is attempting to reduce the number of parts. This should help keep the cost and time necessary to build the engine down.

I purchased the first kit. It is for the frame. The quality of the punched parts is very good. I was able to put both side rail together during a Saturday. The rear bearing housing, front bearing housing and equalizer and the front and back frame spacers have been received and completed. In the first picture you can see the front axle mounted in the equalizer bearing boxes.

[[File:Minnie1.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Minnie 2 front frame assembly.]]

The second picture shows the rear axle in their bearing boxes. These boxes are attached directly to the frame.

[[File:Frame2.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Minnie 2 rear axle assembly.]]

Note that the the axles (1 inch diameter) were machined on the ends to accept the drivers at this time.

I ordered the four driver bearing assemblies from a local bearing supplier and received them within a few days. The castings were ordered from [[Allen Models]]. I received all the wheels and valve rough castings by the end of October.

This is a view of the frame as of the end of the second week in December. The drivers have been machined and mounted on the axles. This is taken from the rear right.

[[File:Minnie 2 frame.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Minnie 2 frame assembly.]]

I am now working on the valve gear. I have not finished the four eccentrics and straps. I have a Sherline lathe and mill that I use for the small stuff. I just got a 9 inch swing Jet lathe and I'm setting this up for the larger items.

[[File:Minnie-2-Frame-2.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]

To give you an idea of scale, the main drivers are 8.5 inches in diameter. I was able to turn these on my friend Jerry Johnson's large lathe. He also helped me broach the key slot and quarter the wheels.

The trailing truck has a nice set of spoked wheels whose axle runs in Oilite bearings. There is plenty of movement, left and right and up and down.

[[File:Minnie-2-Trailing-truck.jpg|thumb|center|300px]]

=== Boiler ===

Here the boiler has been set in place. There is a plate welded to the front face of the fire box that anchors it to the frame. The front portion of the boiler has a sliding fit into the smoke box. This allows movement of the boiler as it expands and contracts.

Note the fittings at each lower corner of the firebox. This will allow proper cleaning of the mud ring.

The smoke stack has been mounted but the top half has not been machined.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie 2 Boiler and Frame.jpg
File:Minnie Boiler And Frame2.jpg
File:Minnie 2 Boiler and Frame3.jpg
</gallery>

== Ron Thibault ==

[https://web.archive.org/web/20040519230034/http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/Minnie.htm Ron Thibault published the following build log for his Minnie in 1998.]

=== Tender Trucks ===

After talking to Bill, I decided to start construction of the engine with the tender trucks. He recommended [[Cannonball Ltd|Cannonball's]] Archbar trucks. After also looking at other companies castings, I agree! Cannonball has a good reputation, and their kit is also the least expensive! I like that combination!! The complete kit with all materials required is only $175.00 (they are also available RTR at $355.00). In addition I will order a wheel gauge template for 7.5" track, and the 29/32" drill needed for the bearing pockets. The drill is a standard drill that you can get elsewhere, if you desire. This brings the total to $199.00 plus about $10.00 shipping. Figure 1 is the picture of a completed truck from Cannonballs catalog. Note: My wheels are the plain back type rather than the fluted ones. This made machining for a novice (me) a little easier and should not be noticeable on the finished tender. In addition the trucks can be built with a lathe, drill press, and file. I do not have a milling machine, so this combination fits my available resources.

When I was inspecting the parts after they arrived I noticed that the lower "bar" on the cast frames was much thinner than the other "bars". This seemed strange, I have not noticed this in pictures of other company's kits which I thought had all the bars the same thickness. I pulled out my copy of Meyer's "Modern Locomotive Construction 1892" and looked up tender trucks. Lo and behold, the trucks in the book also had thinner lower bars!! So these castings are quite prototypical! The rest of the parts were all of good quality, with no visible defects.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie Tender Truck 01.jpg|Cannonball Archbar Truck used on Minnie tender
File:Minnie Tender Truck 02.gif|Exploded drawing of [[Cannonball Ltd]] archbar trucks.
</gallery>

=== Tender Truck Sideframes ===

I started on the trucks with the cleanup and filling of the truck frames. I clamped a casting in my trusty WorkMate, and started filling (Figure 1). I've never filed cast aluminum before and quickly discovered the difference between it and steel! The file loaded up with globs of the soft aluminum at intervals between one and "X" strokes! After consulting the Live Steam E-mail forum I'm on, the following solutions were recommended: Coat the file with motor oil or Kerosene, use chalk as a lubricant, and clean the file with a file card. As I do not wish to get petroleum products on my "woodworking" WorkMate, I tried the chalk and card file route. I tried blackboard chalk, but most of it fell off with the first stroke. So I applied a very light coat of oil then applied the chalk. This worked a little better, but frequent use of the file card is needed. I understand that the type of chalk used for chalk lines sticks better, but I did not want to get blue chalk dust everywhere in my shop. Do not use the RED variety, it is a permanent type that will stay on whatever it contacts. I could not find any of the white type.

I found the file card at Sears in the tool department. It is a block of wood with one side covered with steel bristles, like a wire brush, but with the bristles bent on the ends. You run this over the file, pulling it. So the wires travel in the direction the tips point toward. Use a fair amount of pressure.

This initial filing was to remove the parting line flash, and enough of the pattern draft to make the "bars" look like flat bar. I did not file them dead flat, as the more material left the stronger the final piece.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Minnie Tender Truck FR 01.jpg
</gallery>

=== Truck Wheels ===

The cast iron wheels have a very tough skin that I would recommend using carbide tool bits on. Even with carbide I reserved one for the initial cutting and used a second bit for the finishing cuts. Also a 5 inch three jaw chuck is the minimum required to hold the wheel during the initial machining. The jaws on a 4 inch chuck might hold a wheel, but the jaws would be only minimally engaged with the scroll. This might over strain either the jaw threads or the scroll itself.

Cannonball recommends three different ways to mount the finished wheel to the axle:

# Press fit between the axle and the wheel hub hole.
# A non press fit using Loctite to secure the joint.
# Two setscrews 90 degrees apart with matching flats on the axle.

With any of the above a consistent hole size in the wheel means that the axles can be turned to the same diameter not individually tailored to match a particular wheel. To insure a consistent axle hole in the wheels, I used a 9/16ths inch reamer for the final cut. For now I plan to go with the press fit option for six of the wheels, with two of the wheels held by Loctite, one each, on the axles that the water pump sprockets will go.

[[File:Minnie Tender Truck WH 03.jpg|thumb|right|100px|Figure 13: Carbide Bits]]
A wheel was placed in the 3 jaw chuck with the front face against the jaws. I then used a carbide AL4 bit (left bit in Figure 13) and trued up the circumference of the flange area taking a cut about 0.010" deeper than the lowest spot on the back of the wheel at about 200 rpm (in backgear), using the bit I had designated for the roughing operation. By under cutting the skin on the flange edge first I was able to eliminate the interrupted cut that occurred at the start of each facing operation without doing this. This interrupted cut was caused, of course, by the slightly out of round edge of the casting. By taking a deep enough cut to get below the lowest spot the truing operation cut without an interrupted cut. With this edge trued up the facing operations that followed started on a machined surface, not a rough casting surface.

With the outer circumference machined I next a facing cut about 0.010" deeper than the lowest spot on the back of the wheel. Starting at about 200 rpm (in backgear), using the same roughing bit. When I had cut about halfway across I stopped the lathe and set the speed at the next higher setting, about 300 rpm. After the first cut had removed the skin, I exchanged the first bit for the one reserved for the finishing cuts. I then continued facing the back (at 300 rpm) with 0.015" to 0.020" cuts until the total thickness of the wheel was a little under 0.880".

Next I center drilled the back of the wheel, for the start of the axle hole with a #5 centerdrill at about 400 rpm. I followed this with a 7/32 inch drill for a pilot hole. I then step drilled the hole with a 1/2 inch and 17/32 inch drills. Then with the lathe in the lowest backgear speed (28 rpm on mine), I brought the hole to size with the 9/16ths reamer, held in the tailstock drill chuck. I finished by using a D4 bit (right bit in Figure 13) to debur and chamfer the opening to the hole. The burrs on the edges of the flange area were smoothed with a file. The edge away from the chuck was smoothed with the lathe running (about 300 RPM), and the other with the wheel turned by hand. The hand rotation was done because that edge was to close to the jaws to safely run the lathe under power.

Next the wheel was chucked in the 3 jaw with the machined back against the jaws. The front of the wheel was then faced to bring the total thickness down to 0.800". The Cannonball drawing shows a range of between 0.812" and 0.750". I left the wheels on the "fat" side in case I make a mistake later, and need a little metal left to correct it. The axle hole edge was chamfered and the inner and outer edges of the wheel face smoothed with the file (under power).

This was repeated for the other 7 wheel castings.

The [[Bruce Mowbray Wheel Arbors|Wheel Arbors]] section describes the fabrication of arbors for the Tender, Trailing Truck, Pilot Truck, and Drivers.

The next step was to clamp a wheel to a stub arbor and rough turn the tread area, then using a form tool finish turn the flange. Finally the tread area is coned to the 3 degree angle. After getting advice from several fellow model railroaders I decided to do all the machining operations on the wheels before installing them on the axles.

Alternately you could rough turn the wheels. Then after the wheels are in place on the axle the wheels are finish turned with the axle held between centers.

As the Wheel Arbor holds each wheel concentrically, the wheels were exchanged in turn until each operation was completed for all the wheels. Then the next machining operation was performed in the same manner.

[[File:Minnie Tender Truck WH 12.gif|thumb|right|200px|Figure 12: Initial tread rough cut. Drawing by Rob Thibault]]

The first operation is to turn the tread area of the wheel. In this case I turned the wheels all the way down to the 4.125 (4 1/8") dimension, but not all the way over to the beginning of the inner flange radius. This area will be removed when the coning operation is completed, so this is really still a rough turning operation.

Each wheel for all operations was mounted with the back of the wheel facing the headstock. The wheels can vary slightly in overall width, but the flange must be machined in a fixed relationship to the wheel back, in order for proper tracking on the rails. Mounting the wheels in the above manner insures that the above relationship will be assured for all the wheels, if the proper stops are setup during the machining. The flange tool that will be used for the final cutting also assumes this mounting orientation.

[[File:Minnie Tender Truck WH 14.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Figure 14: Carriage stop for turning wheels.]]

The first step in turning the tread is to set up a fixed carriage stop for the locating the point between the tread and the first rough cut for flange (Point "A" in Figure 12). With this stop in place only the final diameter of the tread has to be watched during machining. The bottom of the way is protected by a piece of craft (or popsicle) stick. While the first wheel was machined I found that the chips built up quickly between the stop and the carriage and were difficult to remove due to the limited space. So I changed the setup to that shown in Figure 14 (again with a craft stick used to protect the way). With this setup almost all (or frequently all) the chips fell away from the edge of the block, requiring only the occasional clearing of the chips.

With the stop set the first wheel was turned to the desired diameter measuring carefully for the last cut. With this final cut finished the crossfeed dial was set to 0 (zero). The rest of the wheels were then turned with the final cut done at the zero setting, rather than measured. Doing the final cut this way requires that the toolbit always be the same size (no wear allowed). The skin on the cast iron wheels is quite tough and chewed up a HSS bit almost immediately, so all the following operations (until noted later), were done using an indexable carbide toolbit and holder. This bit showed no appreciable wear, and if it had, going to a new cutting edge does not require resetting the zero point and stop location.

[[File:Minnie Tender Truck WH 15.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Figure 15: Tread cutting operation.]]
Figure 15 shows the tread cutting operation in progress. You will note that the bit is being fed in with a left-hand bit parallel to the lathe axis. With the triangular bit this cut the part from under the skin (as is recommended practice), reducing greatly the wear and cutting force required. With the above setup the skin is mostly broken away from behind rather than cut through.

After the final diameter was reached the tool bit was cranked out to cut the "vertical" edge, again removing any skin from below and establishing a fixed point "A" for all the wheels.

The next operation is to cut an angled face in preparation for roughing in the flange to tread fillet. With this cut all the cast iron skin should be removed, allowing a HSS tool to be used to cut the rough fillet.

[[File:Minnie Tender Truck WH 17.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Figure 17]]
For this cut I used a right-hand bit, once again run in point first. The topslide was set over 30 degrees clockwise to produce the 60 angle desired (Figure 17). While there is probably some well accepted method for locating the tool to end up at the final cutting point, I do not know it. For these cuts I locked the carriage and used only the cross and topslide feeds. To get the proper settings I carefully cut the first wheel and when I finished the cuts and the point of the tool was sitting at point "A", I zeroed the crossfeed and topslide dials.

[[File:Minnie Tender Truck WH 18.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Figure 18]]
To make the cuts the cross slide was advanced and then the tool bit run in until it broke out at the end of the cut. As the last few cuts were made I took care not to run the topslide past the zero mark. When the carriage dial reached zero the last cut was being made. Figure 18 shows a wheel after the final cut was finished.

=== Locomotive Frame ===

Minnie's frame differs from the "standard" construction methods traditional to the Live Steam hobby. The two traditional 1 1/2 inch scale methods (at least for American prototypes) are to either mill the frame from 1/2 inch steel flat stock, or to build the frame from sections of barstock. The frame from flatstock requires that you either have a decent size milling machine, a good supply of endmills, and several days of time, or that you have $100 or more to have them cut for you. The barstock method does not need a milling machine (though one helps tremendously), but does involve many precise cuts and accurate drilling to many pieces of barstock. In either case you still need to mill the journal boxes.

The major components of Minnie's frame on the other hand requires no more complex a machine than a drill press! Even this could be dispensed with a by talented person with a hand drill. I fall under the drill press standards, though. The frame consists of a sandwich of two punched 1/8 inch thick steel plates, with 1/4 inch barstock between them. All the required openings and (pilot) holes for all the bolts are already punched in the 1/8 inch plates on a CNC punch press! All that the builder needs to do to produce a strong square frame is drilling, countersinking (for flat head screws), taping, and noncritical trimming of the barstock! The bearing retainers for the axle bearings and the front axle equalizer are also assembled from punched plates. Additionally the crosspiece and outer bearing plates for the front equalizer assembly are jig welded before delivery! The accuracy of the frame comes from the accuracy of the CNC punching, and makes it much easier for the first time (or tenth time) builder.

The total time for me to assemble the first frame side was 6 hours, start to finish! I did not trim the barstock to final size, but that was because I do not yet have the full set of drawings. I left the trimming until I am sure I'm not cutting off something I may need later!

Some precautions do need to be taken before construction begins. The punching process can cause some warpage. To account for this the plates are punched in pairs. By matching the pairs, any warpage will be canceled out. Therefore I compared the plates and selected and marked each one as to its final position in the assembled frame. The pairs were matched so that they looked like Figure 1 from the top. When these are bolted together the bowing in each piece will be canceled out. I did not want them to look like Figure 2. As the warpage there would be reinforced by the plates when bolted together!.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:Minnie Frame 01.jpg|Figure 1
File:Minnie Frame 02.jpg|Figure 2
</gallery>

The other precaution is that one plate be selected as an inner and one as an outer (with respect to their position in the completed frame). Both inner pieces are tapped for the assembly bolts and the outer plates are clearance drilled and countersunk for the bolts. Mixing them up or drilling out where taping is required could ruin your day! Also I had to be sure that I built both "Left hand" and "Right hand" frame sides! I marked the four plates with a permanent felt tip marker (easily removed with acetone before painting) and started construction.

The barstock was rough cut (with a torch) to length at delivery, leaving the ends rough and lumpy. The bars most all nest closely together so my first task was to cut off the very ends and file off any burrs. The bars were left overly long and the final trimming left until all the holes were drilled and the frame sides trial assembled. This allows you some room for error (front to back) in clamping the bars during the match drilling process.

The bars are drilled for all the assembly and mounting bolts by clamping them in place and drilling them using the punched pilot holes in a plate as a guide. As the inner plates need to have some of the pilot holes left as punched for tapping, I used an outer plate as a guide. The barstock for one side was drilled at a time using the outer plate that they would end up being assembled with. Using the permanent marker I marked the bars on the side that faced the outer plate. This prevented me from both mixing them up side to side and from assembling they flipped 180 degrees. The pilot holes punched in the plates are a #21, the size for a 10-32 tap. The holes in the bars are first drilled through with this size drill and then later they and the plates are drilled for clearance with a #7 drill, except for those holes in the inner plate that are to be left as is for tapping.

I started with positioning and drilling the upper 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch bar, under the assumption that the top of the frame was a more critical reference surface than the bottom for attaching locomotive components. If the edge of the bottom bar was not quite even with the bottom of the frame, less locomotive assembly problems would occur further down the line.

I also added an intermediate step to drilling the bars. I could not just clamp the bar in place and then drill all the holes for it on the drill press. The clamps had to be move frequently to clear the table as drilling progressed. This would bring in the possibility that the bar could shift as the clamps were moved throwing later holes out of alignment. Four of the five bars have holes where flat head screws will be installed. For each bar rather than drilling through all the holes, I first drilled the location of one of these screws (as close to one end as I could get) with the #21 drill, removed the bar and tapped it. The plate was drilled for clearance and a less than full depth countersink was cut. Using a 3/8 10-32 flathead screw the plate and bar were attached. The matching conic surfaces of the screw head and countersink now held the bar in general alignment and all I had to worry about was that it did not rotate around the screw as I moved the clamps.

After the first hole was drilled in the top bar, the rest of the holes in the top bar were drilled using a machinist square to insure that the top of the plate and the top of the bar lined up during clamping. I left the far end clamped as long as possible, then inserted a spare #21 drill to hold the bar in place while shifting this clamp. I would like to mention that care be taken that this spare drill not be positioned over an opening in the table, where for instance it might fall through and inconveniently roll under another piece of equipment. I then tapped and countersunk another flat head screw location at the opposite end from the first to hold the bar in place. This gave a reference surface for positioning the next bar and so on. Again where possible I installed one flat head screw in each bar first, before drilling the rest. One bar does not have any flat head screw locations, but it only has two holes so I used the spare drill in the first hole while drilling the second. Each bar was left in place as a reference to the next and burrs raised by the drilling were cleaned up before continuing. to the next bar.

I used two barclamps to hold the assembly down on the drill press table as each hole was drilled. They were quicker to position and tighten than the small C clamps used to hold the bars in position with the stamped plate. Being bigger they also had a wider throat, giving a better range of clamping positions as the assembly was moved about for drilling. The other advantage they had was that they could be initially closed and tightened with one hand, while the workpiece was held in the other, Not easy with a large C clamp. Removal was even quicker, loosen the screw, let go of it, and the bottom jaw slides down the bar.

After all the #21 holes were drilled the pieces were disassembled and the #7 clearance holes were drilled in the outer plate and bars, including those previously taped in the bars. All the holes in the bars and the outer plate are drilled for clearance, only the inner plate has tapped locations.

All the flat head screw locations on the outer plate were countersunk next. To make this easier I first carefully cut one of the previous shallow countersink holes until the screw head fit flush. With this as a reference, I lowered the table and extended the quill as far down as it would go. The table was then raised until the countersink bit seated in the just cut countersink hole then locked the table in place. Now all that had to be done to cut the rest to the correct depth was to move the plate and cut until the quill bottomed. Each countersink cut was uniform and the proper depth without having to check each one. I used cutting oil during all the countersinking, to both speed the rate of cut and save the cutting edges of the countersink bit. Any remaining burrs were once again removed.

Next the inner plate was tapped and drilled for clearance as required, then the burrs removed. All the pieces were then reassembled and except for trimming the bars later, that side of the frame was finished! The present I am wearing a brace on my "Good" wrist because of Carpal Tunnel problems, and even with this hindrance it took only six hours to complete the one side of the frame.

The other frame side was finished in the same manner. Then the pieces were disassembled, the 1/4 barstock trimmed to length, and the frames sides reassembled to check for proper fit.

The next step is to cut the steel angle pieces for the corners in preparation for drilling the screw holes. The corner material required for the corner pieces is steel angle (looks like it was bent from flat sheet) not angle iron. They were cut oversize for the same reasons as the barstock was. This also allowed clearance room for the clamps used during drilling to hold the parts in place. The angles at the back corners were cut about 1 inch longer than needed (4 1/2 inches) and the ones for the front corners about 2 inches longer (3 inches). The later were so much longer than needed so that the clamps could reach them from the edges of the 4 inch angle plate (the setup is described below).

[[File:Minnie Frame 09.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Figure 9: Minnie frame]]
The frames were again disassembled (this will be common as the locomotive is built, so the pieces are given a light oil protective coating , and will be cleaned and painted at a later date). When the corner angles are match drilled only the inner plates are used as a guide rather than the entire frame side. This lessens the chance of elongating the holes in the frame pieces, and generally makes an easier job of moving and clamping things. This is especially true as I used the drill press table and when the front corners were being drilled a majority of the frame was hanging in mid-air.

Figure 9 shows the setup I used. The drill press table was used as it provided ample spots to attach clamps and bolts to hold the various pieces down, and was the flattest surface I have besides the lathe bed (it will be a cold day in …., before I start clamping stuff to that!). The angle plate was bolted to the back of the table, and a scrap piece of aluminum plate bolted (where possible) and clamped to the table to extend it a little more. This is not essential, but as long as the plate was available, it helped. The corner piece to be drilled is clamped to the angle plate with the leg to be drilled at the top, parallel to the table/plate surface, as shown in Figure 10. This allows you to drill down through the frame plate into the corner piece. One of the longer corner pieces was clamped to the far end to act as a support and to space the frameplate so it is parallel to the table. This combination keeps the corner piece and the frame plate at right angles to each other and by butting them both up against the angle plate, keeps them in line at the corner. The angle plate in this case is used only as a flat surface to insure that the corner piece and frame plate end line up, the right angle accuracy comes from the corner piece itself. The frame end plate will overlap the frame side plate and sit flush with the outer edge (see the photograph of the assembled corner, Figure 15). With the frame plate also clamped in place (Figure 11) the holes can be drilled. The holes were drilled out with a #7 drill during the construction of the frame sides so I use this size to match drill the corner angles. When it came time to drill out the corner piece that was being used as a support I simply swapped it with an already drilled piece.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Frame 10.jpg|Figure 10
File:Minnie Frame 11.jpg|Figure 11
</gallery>

After the corners were drilled I reassembled the frame sides and bolted the corners in place and marked them for trimming. The shorter corner angles for the front of the frame (just slightly shorter than 1 inch long after trimming), were too short to be clamped in my bandsaw's vice for the final cut. To solve this problem I clamped the piece to a section of the leftover angle (Figure 12) and sawed through both pieces. This wasted a little stock, but sure beat trying to cut it with a hacksaw!

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Frame 12.jpg|Figure 12
File:Minnie Frame 13.jpg|Figure 13
</gallery>

The corner pieces were deburred and bolted to the reassembled side frames in preparation for drilling the holes to mate with the end plates. The angle plate was removed from the drill press table, but the aluminum plate was left in place. The critical measurements for this operation are that the end plate must line up with the outer edge of the frame side and line up with the top and bottom edges. The accuracy of the right angle is again supplied by the corner piece. I laid two pieces of square keystock on the table/plate to act as spacers. These are required because the screw heads for the corner pieces project above the surface. The frame side is placed on the keystock so that the plate surface (not the screw head) rests on the keystock. This is little hard to see in the photograph, so I drew in a line to show that edge of the frame side as it sits on the keystock. The end plate was then put in position and aligned with the top and bottom edges of the frame side using a machinist's square, as shown in Figure 14. With the frame side and the end piece resting on the same surface of the keystock those edges are automatically lined up. The end plate was clamped in place and the setup rechecked. The mounting holes were then match drilled. The holes in the endplate come punched just a hair under the diameter of a #7 drill. So I again used this size drill for the match drilling process. As with the pieces of the frame sides the end plate was marked to assure proper orientation during assembly. The holes for the other corners were then drilled in a similar manner.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Frame 14.jpg|Figure 14
File:Minnie Frame 15.jpg|Figure 15
</gallery>

With all the holes deburred the frame was assembled using #10-32 screws and nuts and is shown in Figures 15 (an assembled corner). You will note the markings on the frame sides. The closer one means "Side 2 Outer", the one just visible behind it is "1I" or "Side 1 Inner".

These parts will have to be disassembled from time to time in the future, so no thread locking compounds were used at this point. In fact I used low grade screws and nuts at the corners, as these were cheap and available locally. I will replace them with high grade hardware when the parts are all attached to the frame and I can determine the exact lengths required for the screws.

=== Rear Axle Mounts ===

The pieces for the rear axle bearing mounts are shown in Figure 1. The smaller pieces, shown below the larger rear bearing mount plates, fit on either side of the lower frame bar at the bottom of the axle opening. These fit in the area where the frame plates were punched out when they were made.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 01.jpg|Figure 1
</gallery>

You will need to have the Driver Axle bearings before starting on the installation of the rear axle plates. This is because the plates need to be in alignment with the outer bearing race, before you work on mounting them. If you align the plates by the outside edges, the inner holes may not be aligned once the plates are fitted to the outer race. When you install the outer races, these plates may shift and throw the mounting holes out of alignment.

The bearings are made by Torrington. They consist of two parts, an inner race part # IR-1612 OH and an outer race with captive needle bearings part # B-2012. I got mine at a local bearing distributor for about $19 for one each set of the two parts. To spread out the cost (I'm also buying tools and parts for other sections at the same time) I bought two sets to start with. This allows me to do the rear axle and the equalizer machining by swapping the bearings between them. One set of the bearings are shown in Figure 2. The outer race is on the left and the inner race on the right.

The holes punched for the bearings are slightly undersize. Bill says that this is inherent in the punching process. This is one of the reasons why you need the bearings first. You could also mount the plates on a lathe or milling machine and bore to holes to size, though such accuracy is not needed for this operation and is therefore a waste of time. After the plates are fitted to the bearings, the plates can be fitted to the frame.

The holes in the Rear Axle plates only need to be machined a little. As shown in Figure 3 below, the outer race fits most of the way through the hole as the plates come delivered. Only the last part of the hole has to be machined or ground to allow the bearing to be pressed in. In the picture I have inserted the bearing using finger pressure only. The plate only has to be opened up so that the race can pass through using your fingers, but without any slop.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 02.jpg|Figure 2
File:Minnie Rear Axle 03.jpg|Figure 3
</gallery>

Figure 4 shows one of the bearing plates clamped in a drill press vise with square keystock used to raise the plate off the bottom. I used a grinding stone on my Dremel to enlarge to hole (Figure 5). With my variable speed Dremel set to a medium speed I made three rounds on the inside of the hole, about 10 seconds total. I ended up hitting the whole surface, but that was all it took to open the hole. With grinding and deburring all the edges (inside and outside) cleanup only took about 10 minutes for all four rear axle plates.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 04.jpg|Figure 4
File:Minnie Rear Axle 05.jpg|Figure 5
</gallery>

The bearing fit perfectly in the frame opening, so no modification was needed there, as shown in Figure 6.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 06.jpg|Figure 6
</gallery>

The rear journal installation is straight forward. The plates with the larger hole (the ones that were just opened up), have the punched holes larger than the #21 drill used for the initial opening up of the frame holes. I just went ahead and opened the holes on opposite corners with the #7 drill. I also drilled the matching corners on one of the end plates, the one that will end up on the inside of the frame. Figure 7 shows the drill press table with a clamp setup to prevent the plate from spinning should the drill grab while I drilled the holes, thus also saving my hand from possible injury.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 07.jpg|Figure 7
</gallery>

I covered both ends of a bearing outer race with masking tape to keep the chips out and installed it in the frame (Figure 8) (Note that this shot is from a later stage of construction). Position the plates (minus the outermost plate which will be taped 10-32) with the bearing installed, and secure them in place with #10 screws and nuts through the corner holes previously drilled. Figure 10 shows the plates bolted together and ready for drilling at the drill press. Clamp the frame to the drill press table and drill through rest of the holes, except for the two middle bottom holes, with the #7 drill. The plates are then removed and deburred.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 08.jpg|Figure 8
</gallery>

Note that the picture in Figure 9 was taken when the second set of plates were drilled. The tape over the axle is used to prevent chips from getting into the bearing. I would have been smart to also tape the opening to the other bearing, but got lucky and none got in. When drilling with this setup go lightly with the spindle down feed, the frame will flex under the pressure, so watch as you drill to insure it does not flex enough to throw off the hole. A piece of scrap wood could be cut to fit between the frames and prevent this flexing, and allow faster drilling (again I would have been smart to do this, but the holes came out all right with gentle downfeed pressure).

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 09.jpg|Figure 9
</gallery>

The drill press is the best way to drill these holes. You can do it with a regular drill, but the holes will all be slightly out of alignment due to the fitting of the bearing race, and this can cause the bit to not be fed evenly. It is difficult to hold the drill steady by hand strength alone should it decide to wander, and likely catch. I tried it both ways and the results with the drill press are easier, quicker, and more accurate!

Tap the holes in two opposite corners of the outer plate, using the tap chucked in the drill press chuck to start the threads straight. Because the bolts will be going through 7/8 of an inch of plates and frame, any error in tapping the holes out of true vertical will be greatly magnified. When we tapped the holes for the fame sides, this was not a problem, but for these holes it can be (I came to this conclusion the hard way). So make sure these two holes are tapped true to vertical. Deburr the outside edges and the tapped holes in the outer plate now. Install the plates and the bearing (remember to keep the tape on the ends of the bearing) and secure with screws in the two tapped outer plate holes. Now tap the remaining outer plate holes (except the two middle bottom holes), by inserting the tap from inside the frame through the screw holes. The holes in the plate will act as guides to insure the threads are true. Figure 10 shows the tap in position to start threading the next hole.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 10.jpg|Figure 10
</gallery>

Using the #21 drill, the two middle bottom holes are drilled through the frame (again on the drill press). These holes will be used as guides when fitting the small plates (shown in Figure 1 above). Disassemble and deburr all the holes.

Next we need to fit the small plates to the frame and bearing. Reassemble the plate minus the outer plate and use #10 screws and nuts to hold the plates in position. Using the holes in the frame bar as a guide, grind the curved end of the plate until the holes line up with those in the frame. The curved end of the small plates have long sharp ends left by the punching process. These ends are where most, if not all, of the grinding needs to be done. Grind the plates until the holes line up with those in the frame. Figure 11 shows a raw plate positioned in the slot as far up as it will go, and another raw plate on the left to show the ends that need to be trimmed. Figure 12 shows a fitted small plate. Reinstall the journal plates and repeat for the other side, leaving off the inner most plate this time. When both small plates are fitted reinstall all but the outermost plate and drill out the holes with the #7 drill, tap the outer plate holes as above, deburr, and install all the plates and bolts.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 11.jpg|Figure 11
File:Minnie Rear Axle 12.jpg|Figure 12
</gallery>

Figure 13 shows the finished plates with a piece of axle stock installed which is also held in position by a bearing set in the frame opening on the outer side.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Axle 13.jpg|Figure 13
</gallery>

Repeat the above steps for the other side, but additionally use a piece of axle stock fit in both bearings in all the steps, to insure that the bearings are lined up, with all the plates fitted.

When you are finished installing both rear axle mounts, disassemble the mounts and both side frames. Clean out all the metal chips, and reassemble the parts. Because the side frames are hollow and open in some areas, you may have to do this a few times as the locomotive construction progresses.

=== Equalizer ===

The frame for the front axle equalizer, minus the supplied bearing plates, is shown in Figure 1. The equalizer comes already welded and with the holes pre-punched as shown. In some of the pictures the equalizer shown is an earlier design (the bottom of the outer plates are closed rather than open). Figure 1A shows the old design with the bearing plates installed. The new design uses the same plates. All the frame kits will have the new design as delivered, according to Bill Oberpriller. The two designs are otherwise identical and the construction steps the same. For this reason I did not reshoot the pictures.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 01.jpg|Figure 1
File:Minnie Equal 01 old.jpg|Figure 1A
</gallery>

I fabricated the equalizer pivot and mounts first. The equalizer as delivered has a 1/2 inch hole punched to accept the pivot. Drill bits make a hole that is close to the marked size, but varies from that size by a few thousandths. So I made the mounts first and turned the pivot to fit them. I made the pivot assembly as shown with a change to the pivot itself, then made further changes when I had finished. I'll describe the construction as I first made the parts, and then describe the modifications.

The purpose of the pivot is to hold the equalizer in place side to side and allow the axle to swivel horizontally as the drivers move up and down with any irregularities in the track. The front to back forces on the axle are controlled by the fit between the axle journals and the frame. A close fit between the pivot and the equalizer is not needed or desired. About 0.005" slop is fine. As bolts are about that much under size, a 1/2 inch bolt can be used as the pivot stock. The smooth surface of the bolt also provides a good bearing area.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 03.jpg|Figure 3
</gallery>

Two pieces of 1 by 1/8 inch steel angle (the same as was used in the frame) about an inch longer than in the drawing were cut for the mounts. This allows for adjustment when mounting them to the frame. The ends will be trimmed later. I mounted them for drilling as shown in Figure 3. The two pieces are clamped while siting on a flat surface so that the bottom legs are aligned, then the parts are clamped to the angle plate. Though it is not clear in the photo, I have marked the location for the pivot hole using blue marking dye (some of which can be seen as the blue blot in the corner of the angle). This setup insures that the holes are in alignment with each other and perpendicular to the bottom legs. I drilled a pilot hole and then drilled with a 23/64 inch drill. This was followed with a 3/8 inch reamer. I used the reamer simply because I had one available. The hole could have just been drilled with a 3/8" drill bit instead.

Next I turned the pivot. Instead of mounting with the 1/4 inch bolts, I turned the pivot to accept 3/8 inch nuts. This was a simpler job than in Bill's design, though either will work. The partially completed pivot is shown in Figure 4. I turned it from 3/4 inch HRS bar, rather than a 1/2 inch bolt simply because of a lack of a suitable bolt when I started (I swear that long 1/2" bolt in the scrap box had nothing to do with this decision :-> ). I first roughed it out with the areas to be threaded smaller than 1/2 inch so I could trial fit the bearing area to the equalizer opening. The bearing area was also left a little longer than the 2 inch final length plus twice the thickness of the angle stock mounts. This area was turned last for the locating shoulders. After turning this section to a lose sliding fit I smoothed it with a file to provide a better bearing surface.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 04.jpg|Figure 4
</gallery>

Next, both the areas for the 3/8 threads were turned down, leaving them a little thick. A short section of the tailstock end of the bar was then turned until a close fit to the angle stock mount was obtained (3/8 inch +). The rest of this section up to the start of the locating shoulder, was then turned using this setting. The "V" form carbide bit I was using was switched to a square shouldered one. I then roughed in the locating shoulder area. Next the bit was located against the previously turned surface and backed off 0.0025 inch (to provide a 0.005 inch interference fit with the mount hole). I then finish turned the shoulder to a length slightly shorter than the thickness of the angle stock. The threaded area, if a little thicker than 3/8 inch, can then be reduced to the correct diameter for threading. Using the measurements from this section the shoulder and threaded area for the section at the headstock end were then finish turned. During the finish turning of the second shoulder is when the pivot bearing area is brought to the 2 inch final length.

The exposed tailstock end was then threaded using a 3/8-16 NC die. Alternatively a 3/8-24 NF thread could be cut. The fine threads are actually stronger than the course and would, therefore, be preferred. The availability of the fine thread nuts and/or die (or lack there of) may dictate the choice. In my case I ended up using the course threads. I first placed a couple of washers over the shoulder to insure that I did not run the die into this area. The die was started using the tailstock ram to position the die square with the stock and also used to apply pressure to help start the first few threads. This is shown in Figure 5. My die has a hex body so I use a wrench to turn it. A standard round die will require a holder. I put the lathe in the highest gear and locked in the backgears to hold the chuck and the stock while I was turning the die. I also placed a piece of plywood over the ways to protect them from a falling wrench or die. Always do this when such operations are being done!! A dinged bedway will not improve the accuracy of your lathe, and does not do a whole lot for your day either!

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 05.jpg|Figure 5
</gallery>

Using thread cutting oil I ran the die up until it touched the protective washers. This leaves a section unthreaded or partially threaded by the washers. This is inherent in all dies, which like taps have a short section of partially shallow threads that act as a guide when starting the operation. To finish the threads I turned the die around so that the full thread area was toward the shoulder and ran the die back up. With the die and washers removed I then used a file to clean up the end of the threads and any burs raised by the threading or machining.

With one end finished I remove the workpiece and cut it from the bar. The piece was then returned to the lathe and the cut cleaned up. That end was then threaded and deburred like the first.

This completed the pivot and mount, next fitting the mounts to the frame would have been done. However, while rooting in my parts drawer I came across a nice 1/2 inch [[OD]] X 3/8 inch [[ID]] bronze bearing. The pivot hole in the equalizer is punched in the same manner as the other frame pieces. The parts are then stacked and welded. While in alignment after welding, they do not provide a seamless totally smooth hole. I decided that the bronze bearing would provide a much better bearing surface. The [[OD]] of the bearing is slightly over size so that it can be pressed into a 1/2" nominal hole without additional securing needed. So the fitting to the equalizer is simple, but now I had to make new mounts and pivot.

To press the bearing into the equalizer I used a 3/8 inch bolt, washers and a nut. The bearing was placed on the bolt with a washer at the bolt head end. The bolt/bearing assembly is then inserted through the equalizer hole and a washer and nut installed. With the bearing aligned to the hole the nut is tightened and the bearing will be pulled into the hole as the bolt head is pulled toward the nut. Figure 6 shows the parts ready for inserting the bearing. In my case the bearing was longer than the depth of the hole. When the bearing bottomed on the washer at the nut end, I removed the nut and washer and placed a socket who's opening was larger than the bearing [[OD]] over the bolt. With the nut and washer reinstalled the assembly was tightened until the bearing's shoulder touched the equalizer bar. Figure 7 shows the installed bearing.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 06.jpg|Figure 6
File:Minnie Equal 07.jpg|Figure 7
</gallery>

To fit the new equalizer bearing a new 3/8 inch maximum diameter pivot was needed. To keep the locating shoulders I reduced them from the original 3/8 inch to 1/4 inch diameter and the threaded portion to 1/4"-28. I discussed this with Bill Oberpriller first to insure that the final parts would be strong enough for this application. This of course necessitated the fabrication of new mounts with a 1/4 inch rather than 3/8 inch hole. The steps were basically the same, but with a few differences. In this case I did not have a 1/4 inch reamer so 1/4 inch drilled holes were used in the mounts. I used a 3/8 inch bolt as starting stock this time. The thinner bolt required that I use a tailstock center to support the end of the bolt during machining. A photo shot during the machining of this pivot is shown in Figure 8.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 08.jpg|Figure 8
</gallery>

Figure 9 shows the new pivot and mounts set on the frame. You will see that one of the mounts has a 3/8 inch hole in the base leg. I did not have enough angle left for two new mounts, so I reused one of the original mounts for a new one. The next time I get to the hardware store, I will get another length of angle and replace this mount. I may have to remake both mounts, but with the 0.005 inch extra diameter on the pivot shoulder, I should not have to make another pivot. You will also see that I have not drilled the holes for attaching the mounts to the frame. One of the future kits will be the smoke box saddle. This fits inside the frame and against it, and is an additional part that holds the frame in correct alignment and spacing. Rather than drill the pivot mount to frame holes now I will wait until I have the saddle installed. I would hate to find that the mount holes were off by 1/32 inch or so! It is much easier to match drill these holes when everything is correct, than to redrill the mounts for a new hole.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Equal 09.jpg|Figure 9
</gallery>

Before starting on the fitting of the axles to the equalizer the top bar on the frame must be notched out to match the cut-out in the frame so that the equalizer will pivot freely up and down approximately 3/16 to 1/4 inch. This is done easily on a mill, but with only a lathe, it is more difficult. I plan to clamp the bars (one at a time) to an angle plate mounted in place of the toolpost, with the bottom of the bar facing the headstock. The bar centerline will be at the lathe centerline. A 1/2 inch endmill will be gripped in the chuck. This will leave concave ends in the slot, which will be cleaned up with a file.

The next steps are to fit the equalizer journals to the frame. As with the Rear Axle Plates, you will need to have the Driver Axle Bearings first!

First the bearing journal plates are fitted to the bearings as was done for the rear axle. Next the front equalizer needs to be fit to the frame. This should be a free but not sloppy fit. The equalizer should be free to pivot, with the sliding fit to the frame not allowing any great front to back motion. Bill Oberpriller used a belt sander to reduce his to fit. I may do that, or maybe turn mine down on the lathe, assuming I can come up with a good way to mount it to the faceplate.

=== Rear (Cab) Frame ===

Minnie's frame comes in two major parts. The first is the main frame already detailed in the previous sections. The second is the rear frame that supports the engine cab and the rear of the boiler, and additionally makes up part of the trailing truck assembly. Figure 1 shows a picture of the completed rear frame.

As with the front frame kit, care must be taken that all the parts are square and true, otherwise the trailing truck will not move freely as it should.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 01.jpg|Figure 1
</gallery>

Figure 2 shows the parts for the rear frame and the front apron. At the bottom are the parts for the side frames and the internal bars. The thicker bars over the side frame plates are the top bars, those below are the rest of the side frame bars. These bars need to be cut into several sections, as detailed later, for installation. The notches in the side plates are for the trailing truck mount. In the upper left are the plates and one of the bars for the "front" of the rear frame and to the right the plate that forms the rear most part of the frame. The large plate at the top left is the front apron plate. Its installation is detailed in the pilot truck section.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 02.jpg|Figure 2
</gallery>

The bar placement for the rear frame front and side frame assemblies are shown in Figure 3. The only place that the flat head screws need to be placed are the four screw holes in the vertical green bars, the rest can be round head screws. These locations are also used for mounting various equipment like boiler supports, the ash pan, etc. I will match drill with the #21 drill only for most of these holes, and then finish them as the rest of the equipment is installed.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 03.gif|Figure 3
</gallery>

The blue bars in the figure above are 1/4 by 1 inch, the red 1/4 by 3/4 inch, and the green 1/4 by 1/2 inch bar stock. The four holes through the 1/4 by 1/2 inch (green) bar stock and frames are the only holes that require flat head screws.

The bolt locations that the front frame's rear plate use to bolt to the steel angle corner are also used to tie the front and rear frame halves together, with bolts that will also pass through matching holes in the rear frame's front plate. As I felt that this should be a fairly close tolerance fit, I decided to use a #10 rather than a #7 drill for the clearance holes. I can always go back and enlarge the holes later if needed.

Because the locomotive is still being designed I decided to match drill all the bars with the #21 drill only at this point, except for those holes I knew were going the use a certain type of screw. I also will not tap any of the these holes either until I go to mount the associated assemblies. This gives me the maximum flexibility as construction progresses. The holes I did open up are those used to tie the front and rear frames together, the holes that are used to secure the rear frame's corner angles, and the four holes on each side of the trailing truck journal slots. I am using temporary #6-32 bolts in the remaining holes for the present to hold the bars in place and the punched plates in line. The #6 screws will fit in a #21 hole.

Notice the circled holes in the plate, in Figure 4. These are the ones that secure the corner angles and tie the front and rear frames together. These will be match drilled and then opened up with the #10 drill. The rest of the holes will be match drilled (#21 drill) only, and then the #6 screws used to hold the bars and plates together.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 04.jpg|Figure 4
</gallery>

Figure 5 shows the front frame plate for the rear frame clamped and ready for drilling the first hole (the hole first drilled is one of the ones that will tie the front and rear frame together. As with the drilling of the front frame plates, I first drilled one hole with the #21 drill, then tapped the bar for a 10-32 screw. The matching hole in the plate was drilled for clearance with a #10 drill (not the #7 used on the front frame plates). This hole location will not be countersunk. The bar and plate were then reassembled, using a 3/8 inch long 10-32 flathead screw. The #10 hole is large enough for the conical back of the screw head to center in.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 05.jpg|Figure 5
</gallery>

A second location on that bar was then drilled tapped and had a flathead screw inserted to hold the bar in alignment while the remaining holes were drilled. The holes for the lower bar were then drilled.

The side plates and bars were drilled and assembled in a similar manner, again opening up only those holes for the corner angles and the four flathead screw locations. Figure 6 shows one of the raw side plates with the relevant holes marked.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 06.jpg|Figure 6
</gallery>

The upper bar of the side frame was installed first, with securing screws installed at the marked locations at either end.

Next I cut two pieces from the 1/4 by 1/2 inch bar for the two vertical green bars in Figure 3. These bars need to be installed as flush with the inner side of the slot as possible. They, and the plate edge, will be part of the bearing surface of the trailing truck journals. As the location of these bars makes clamping them difficult, I switched to a different holding method, superglue.

Figure 7 shows a bottle of Gap Filling superglue and an aerosol bottle of "Kicker". The kicker is sprayed on the glued joint to speed the setting process. Go to a hobby shop and get a "real" bottle of glue and the kicker, the small vials sold in the department stores are very expensive for what you get, too thin (watery) for this job, and they do not sell the kicker. A small bottle of both glue and kicker are all you will need.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 07.jpg|Figure 7
</gallery>

The gap filling superglue is thicker than the regular type so as to have some body to hold the glue in the less than perfect joint. The plates are slightly bowed, by the punching process, across the narrow part of the notch legs, and even with the gap filling glue, the joint will be fairly weak, so handle the parts gently during machining. It is very important to clamp the parts on the drill press table as close to the hole being drilled as possible, to further support the joint. The forces on the bar as the drill cuts through the back can break the joint loose if not counteracted. If this occurs, simply finish drilling through the bar by itself, tap the hole, drill the plate with the #10 drill, install a retaining screw, and reassemble the parts with more glue used to insure the alignment during the drilling of the second hole.

First both parts were cleaned and degreased. To setup for gluing the bar in place, and in the proper alignment, I clamped the outer plate to the drill press table with the inside up and the slot facing to the rear. One of the remaining bars was then secured tight against the inside edge and also clamped. The edge of this bar served as the datum surface for aligning the 1/4 by 1/2 inch bar. Figure 8 shows this setup, with the 1/4 by 1/2 inch bar laid in place to test the setup for fit.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 08.jpg|Figure 8
</gallery>

Superglue was then applied in a wavy bead to the plate where the bar would be attached. I was careful to keep the glue away from the alignment bar and the holes, remembering that it would spread once the bar was placed. I found no great need to create a solid mass attached to the table! The mating surface of the bar was then given a light spray of the kicker, and the bar pressed in place against the datum bar. After a few seconds, when the glue had set, the datum bar and the plate/bar assembly were removed, to insure that they could be separated. The superglue joint is set but still weak for the first few seconds, so the parts can be pulled apart should the glue have gotten were it was not wanted.

I let the joint set for a few minutes, then clamped the parts on the table and drilled the holes. I was able to drill both holes on one side without the joint failing, but the other side I had to go the screw and second glue joint route. When the holes were finished I tapped both holes in each bar 10-32. The matching holes in the plate were opened with the #10 drill, and countersunk for the flathead screws. These screws have to be set a little below the surface, so that the trailing truck journals can slide over them. All the burrs on the parts were cleaned up. The bars were then attached to the plate, so that the rest of the bars could be fitted.

The 1/4 by 3/4 inch bar stock used for the bottom bars needs to be cut into three pieces, as shown in Figure 2. I started with the two smaller pieces. It is a lot easier to cut two short pieces from a long bar, than to trim or separate two short pieces. With my imported saw the vice jaws stop about 1" from the blade, so short pieces are even harder to work with! Using the installed 1/4 by 1/2 inch bars as a guide the two short pieces were cut and drilled. The right most bar was machined first. The hole on the edge is one that will be drilled for the corner brackets, so this hole was done first with the #21 drill, then tapped 10-32 for a screw. With the hole in the plate opened with the #10 drill the parts were reassembled and the other hole drilled. For now a 6-32 screw will be used in this second hole to hold the bar in place, so after deburring, this part was set aside. The center bar was then finished, again leaving both the plate and bar holes #21.

The left hand bar needs to have the ends cut at an angle to fit against the slot bars, and at the plate edge. While the angles could be determined and the bars marked and cut to match, there is a simpler way. The plate was clamped to the table, bar side up. The barstock was then placed with one end (still square) pushed against the slot barstock. This bar was then also clamped. Using a piece of keystock (any piece with smooth parallel sides would work), held against the slot bar edge as a guide, the other side was used as a guide to mark the cutting line on the bottom bar. The keystock provides a line parallel to the slot bar, but offset enough to clear the gap between the square end of the bar to be marked. Figure 10 shows the setup, with the awl ready for scratching the line.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 10.jpg|Figure 10
</gallery>

The bandsaw vise was then adjusted to the correct angle using the comparison of the blade and marked line as references. To save setup time it would be best to have both sideplates ready for the installation of both these bars. That way both ends of each bar can be cut (both need the same angle), in one setting. Otherwise you need to go through this process returning the vise to the square position in-between. Unfortunately I thought of this later! I had an additional problem in doing this, as will be detailed later, and only managed to cut one end of one bar at this time.

The holes for this bar were then drilled leaving the two inner holes at #21 and the hole at the small end of the plate fitted with a 10-32 flathead securing screw.

The parts were then disassembled, the tapped bar locations were then drilled out with the #10 drill. The inner plate was then drilled at the corner bracket locations #10, and the four slot bar holes tapped 10-32. The burrs were cleaned up, and the frame assembled. At the locations drilled #21 only the 6-32 screws with washers and nuts were installed to hold the bars in place, and pull the punched plates together against the inner bars. Figure 12 shows the "finished" front and side plate, ready for the steel angles to be drilled and installed (the small stub to the right of the side plate is part of the block used to brace the part level for the photo, not part of the assembly). You will notice that I have not finished trimming the bars in this photo. The bandsaw blade broke, and I decided to leave this trimming for later. This was a small mistake. The bottom bar of the angled section fits right up against the bottom of the top bar. By leaving the small stub of the top bar, the lower bar was displaced a little downward. This was not a significant amount, so I left it as is. Trim your bar.

The corner bracket was attached to the side plate using a different method than for the front frame. I found that when using the hand drill to match drill the hole for the corner brackets, I had enlarged some of the holes as the drill bucked a little back and forth. Some of these holes were made visibly oblong. For the rear frame I disassembled the side plates, and used only the inner plate as a drilling guide. Figure 13 shows this setup. The rear corner brackets were then match drilled.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 15.jpg|Figure 15
</gallery>

As the front frame plate extends past the joint, a slightly different clamping setup was used, as shown in Figures 14 and 15. The step in the front plate prevented me from running the locating bar across the front of the side plate, so two bars were run endwise as shown, to locate the parts. In Figure 15, you will notice that I attached the corner bracket slightly misaligned. I went back and made a new corner bracket before continuing, but I had already taken this picture. In addition before doing the actual drilling I disassembled the front plate and used only the inner plate as a drill guide.

The frame parts were then reassembled and bolted to the flat aluminum plate and the drill press table, in preparation for match drilling the rear plate. Figure 16 shows a view of the setup from the rear plate view, and Figure 17 shows it from the front plate end. As can be seen I used angle plates (one on each side) to insure that the sideplates were both aligned vertically. A 12 inch dial caliper was used to locate the rear of the side plates 10.5 inches apart (the same as at the front). The rear plate was then clamped with the corners of the angled sections centered between the side frame ends. In Figure 16 you can see the caliper in place for the measurement. The piece of tape in the picture was used to make sure the caliper would not fall off while I was taking the photo. The caliper was removed after all the clamps were tightened, and before the holes were drilled.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 16.jpg|Figure 16
File:Minnie Rear Frame 17.jpg|Figure 17
</gallery>

Figure 18 is the picture of the completed frame. You will note that I used the flathead screws to secure this plate. In addition I tapped the rear corner brackets 10-32 at these location, rather than using a nut and bolt. There were two reasons for this. The screws will be visible on the finished locomotive, and the flathead screws look better than roundhead screws. The other reason was that the conical back of the flathead screws help to keep these joints in alignment and thus help keep the side plates in place. If the sideplates shift, the trailing truck journals might bind in the slides.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Rear Frame 01.jpg|Figure 18
</gallery>

=== Trailing Truck ===

Minnie's Trailing truck frame is part of the rear frame. The truck bearing plates ride up and down in the slots at the bottom of the rear frame. Figure 1 shows the punched plates for both bearing assemblies. The four plates at the top are the outer plates and serve both to capture the bearings and as the outer slide plates. Figure 2 shows one of these longer plates just below the slot in the rear frame, with one of the shorter bearing retainers below it.

For the outer plates I plan to mount them so the slightly radiused edged side is toward the frame. This will provide a smoother surface to slide against the frame. Deburr all the plates before fitting the bearings.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 01.jpg|Figure 1
</gallery>

The bearings for the trailing truck are bronze 1 inch [[OD]] X 3/4 inch [[ID]] bearings. I used oil impregnated [[Sintered bronze|sintered bronze]] bearings, as opposed to solid bronze bearings. The self-oiling properties of the sintered bronze will reduce maintenance time, the solid bronze would have to periodically be greased. The outside of these are turned to match the plates. For the inner plates, if the bearing does not fit the punched hole you can either turn it to fit, or open up the holes slightly as with the driver bearings. The outside of the bearing will have to be turned to match the smaller hole in the outer plates. This shoulder will secure the bearing from side to side movement. A light press fit of the bearings is still desired. [[Sintered bronze]] can be a difficult, gummy, material to machine, so a sharp bit is a necessity! I used an indexible carbide insert toolholder. This cut quite cleanly.

If just the shoulders needed cutting the bearings could have been clamped in in a chuck. I decided to fabricate an arbor for this operation, instead. The main reason for this was, that after measuring the [[OD]] of the Bearing and the [[ID]] of the inner plates I found about 0.005 to 0.006 inch of difference. I tried grinding one plate and found that it took a fair amount of time and enough metal was removed for me to worry about having shifted the hole. An arbor would allow me to machine both the shoulders and the [[OD]] of the rest of the bearing, without worrying about recentering the bearing after turning it around to expose the other end. The second reason, is that by using an arbor I can have the entire bearing exposed, making the measuring of the distance between the two shoulders much easier, and allowing me to machine the entire OD at once. The last reason was, [[Sintered bronze|sintered]] bronze has a sponge like structure, with random holes and passages that hold the oil. I was somewhat skittish about cracking or shattering the bearings by putting them directly in a chuck.

The arbor consists of the arbor and a matching turned cylindrical washer. The use of the cylindrical washer, rather than a flat one, allows better access to the shoulder area during machining. Figure 3 shows the drawing for the arbor. None of the dimensions are critical except for the need for a close fit to the inner bore of the bearing.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 04.jpg|Figure 4
</gallery>

The arbor was turned from a 1-1/4 inch [[HRS]] round stock blank. The washer was machined on the end first and then cutoff and finished. First the end was faced, center drilled, and then drilled out to 3/4 inch for a depth of about 1 inch. I step drilled using a 1/4 inch, then 1/2 inch, and finally a 3/4 inch drill (Figure 4). The outside surfaces were turned next. The bar was transferred to the bandsaw and the washer cut off. The washer was returned to the lathe and the parting surface trued up. Finally, the shoulder was turned to a diameter slightly less than that of the desired bearing shoulder (Figure 5).

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 05.jpg|Figure 5
</gallery>

NOTE: In a situation where the inner bore and shoulder had to be concentric, the hole should have been bored, and the shoulder turned before the piece was removed for the cutting off operation. Cutting it off and then returning it to the 3 jaw would shift the two surfaces by whatever amount of inaccuracy was in the chuck.

The bar was rechucked and the arbor proper turned. First the entire bar was rough turned (including outside diameter of the threaded area), leaving a little "meat" for the final turning. Rough turning the threaded area allowed me access to the bearing portion to use the bearing as a gauge for the finishing cuts. Unless you have a very accurate (unworn) lathe trying to size the bearing area by turning the end to fit and then running the cut at that setting all the way over to the actual bearing portion, is doomed to failure. My lathe is not terribly bad, but does have about 0.003" wear in the bed. This, at times, necessitates a little forethought in how a piece is to be machined. With the bearing and washer areas done the portion to be threaded was then finish cut and threaded with a die. It may be necessary to reduce the diameter of the section the washer will fit, if it has a smaller inside diameter than the bearing. Finally I marked the location of the #1 jaw on the arbor, should I need to use it again at a later time. Figure 6 shows a picture of the finished arbor and cylindrical washer. You will notice that the arbor in Figures 6 and 8 differ from the drawing (Figure 3) in that I decided, after the pictures were taken, to turn clearance for the dial caliper at the chuck end, in order to make measuring easier.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 06.jpg|Figure 6
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 07.jpg|Figure 7
</gallery>

With the arbor finished the bearings were machined. First I set the edge of the tool flat against the chuck face, so that the shoulder cut would be perpendicular to the bearing axis (Figure 7). I cut the shoulder nearest the washer (Figure 8), then turned the bearing around to cut the second shoulder. Last the [[OD]] was turned, using a deburred inner plate as a gauge. The shoulders were cut so as to leave the length of the [[OD]] slightly shorter than the total thickness of the inner plates. To measure this thickness I deburred the plates and clamped them tightly in a vise. The plates are slightly warped by the punching process so clamping them in the vise simulates how they will be once bolted together. The thickness must be measured as steel plate varies from batch to batch in thickness during manufacture. Mine came out to 0.530 inch, so I cut the [[OD]] to be 0.520 inch long. Figure 9 shows a finished bearing (left) and an original bearing (right).

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 09.jpg|Figure 9
</gallery>

The next step is to install the bearing in the plates and drill out the four bolt holes. Remember that one of the outer plates will be tapped 10-32, not drilled out. The four holes in the inner bearing plates were 3/16 inch for my plates, just a little smaller than a #10 drill. I used a 3/16ths drill as an alignment pin as I drilled the other three holes with the #10 drill. Figure 10 shows the plates clamped in my bench vise for the initial lining up of the plates, and with the alignment pin drill bit inserted. I used masking tap over the ends of the bearings to prevent chips from getting in. The four inner and one outer plate were lined up with the 3/16 ich drill bit and then clamped in a drill press vice (top and bottom surfaces) to bring all the edges in line for drilling (Figure 11). At this point the 3/16 inch drill could have been removed, but I chose to leave it in as extra insurance. Three of the holes were drilled out #10, then the 3/16 inch drill removed and the fourth hole opened up.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 10.jpg|Figure 10
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 11.jpg|Figure 11
</gallery>

The other outer plate was tapped 10-32 and after deburring the newly machine holes, the assembly was bolted together (Figure 12). At this point, the inner plates still need to be machined or otherwise narrowed to fit in the slideway.

The second bearing and plates were finished in the same way.

The four inner plates are then fitted to slide smoothly in the rear frame slots. The outer plates are then installed to finish the assembly. To provide a better sliding surface between the outer plates and the frame, the plates were installed with the side with the more rounded edges toward the frame.

For those who get ahead of me, here are my plans on finishing the wheels and axles.

I plan to use 1/4 inch by 1/2 inch [[HRS]] bar for the retaining bars that close in the bottom of the journal slot openings. This is purely because [[CRS]] bar is not easily obtainable in my area, whereas the [[HRS]] is.

The axle is made from 3/4 inch [[CRS]] round stock, with a finished length of 10.75 inches. The wheel hub is drilled and then reamed 9/16, as with the tender truck wheels. Also as with the tender wheels, you have the same attachment options. The final diameter, in any case, of this section determines the ID measurements of the axle caps.

The axle caps are the surface that the bearings actually run on, and are also made from 3/4 inch [[CRS]]. The inner bore is drilled and then bored or reamed for a slight press fit over the axle ends. I decided on a press fit to insure that the outer surface of the cap runs in line with the axle. This will necessitate setting the stock up in a 4 jaw chuck. These caps are made so that the final axle length, once they are installed, is 11.25 inch. The caps are held in place with 10-32 screws. The screw holes run axially along the centerlines of both the caps and axle. The axle ends are drilled and tapped to accept the screws and the caps are clearance drilled.

I plan to deviate from Bill's drawings for the hole in the caps. With a press fit, should I ever have to remove the caps, it could be difficult to grasp them to do so. Therefore I plan to drill and tap the screw holes in the caps for a 1/4-28 screw. If I have to remove them I can use a 1/4-28 bolt in this hole to back off the caps. I may turn the end of this screw down to fit in the 10-32 axle hole. This would prevent marring the axle ends. I may also have to make 10-32 screws with a wider head for installing and retaining the caps. This is a little extra work, but will pay off in spades should the removal of the caps be needed!

Figure 100 shows the raw [[Allen Models|Allen]] castings for the Pilot and Trailing Truck Wheels. I chose the spoked wheels, Allen also offers solid wheels. These wheels (as well as those for the Trailing Truck) will be turned as were the Tender Truck Wheels. These castings are not semi-contoured in the tread area, as were the tender wheels, so a little more machining will be required. In addition the back of the spokes will be machined to thin the cross section (as seen from the front), for better appearance.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Trailing Truck 100.jpg|Figure 100
</gallery>

=== Pilot (front) Truck ===

The upper front apron plate (left) and the pilot truck hinge plate (right) are shown in Figure 1, The apron plate serves as one of the supports for the front truck and as a means to hold the frame square. The hinge plate bolts under the frame and serves as another frame squaring device as well as serving as the hinge mount. Both are bolted to the frame with 10-32 by 1/2 inch screws as detailed in Figure 2.

The holes (except as noted later) for the apron need to be of the blind type. If a standard (hardware store type) tapered tap is used, the hole would have to be quite deep. The first several threads of a tapered tap are only partial (shallow) threads, they then taper up to full thread depth. The end is also generally pointed, further extending the region of partial threads. This feature helps in starting the threads in a straight manner. For threading a blind (closed bottom) hole you need to make the hole deeper by the length of the point and tapered area to get the depth of full threads you need. To solve this problem you can use a bottoming tap. This has full depth thread all the way to the end of the tap, and a flat tip. It is almost impossible, though, to start the threads with such a tap. So you start with a tapered tap then finish with the bottoming tap, which can be screwed into the threads left by the first tap, and then run all the way to the bottom to cut the rest of the threads. There is also another type of tap called a plug tap. This tap has a flat point and a short section of taper. This allows you to cut threads further into the hole than the taper type tap. These, however, are more difficult to start straight by hand.

One problem with these taps is that your local hardware or auto parts store is not likely to carry either of them. You can, however, get them from an industrial supply house or by mail order. An alternative solution is to buy another taper tap and convert it to a bottoming type. This can be accomplished by using a cutoff disk to cut off the tapered thread area (and by default the point), leaving just the portion with the full threads. I used a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. After cutting the tip off, I used the disk as a grinder to true up the bottom and remove any burrs. Figure 3 shows a standard taper tap and one that has been made into a bottoming tap.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Pilot Truck 03.jpg|Figure 3
</gallery>

The side of the apron plate has to line up with the outside edge of the frame. The front has to line up with the front of the frame SIDEPLATE, not the front cross piece!! This is shown in Figure 2.

To match drill the apron to frame holes I used the setups shown in Figure 4 and 5. First I bolted an angle plate to the table to use as a support and to hold the frame in a true vertical position. Only one bolt was used to do this. Later when the frame is being drilled, the angle plate is free to swivel as needed while lining up the drill bit and hole. Figure 4 is a shot from the back showing the angle plate and the clamped frame. Note that in later shots I substituted a C clamp for the bar clamp. This gave me more room to work on the parts. I clamped a piece of barstock against the face of the frame (left and right clamps shown in Figure 5) for an alignment surface for the apron to side frame joint. Another angle plate was temporarily clamped to the table, and the front edge of the frame pressed against this. This acted as an alignment guide for the front edge of the apron. The apron was then held against these pieces and clamped down on the top of the frame (the middle clamp in Figure 5). I made sure that the holes in the center of the plate were correctly oriented, before drilling.

The angle plate at the front of the frame was removed so the frame could be freely positioned for drilling. A block of wood was set under the frame overhang to support the frame during drilling. As with the frame, I drilled out one hole (near the front of the frame) and installed a flathead screw in this location to insure that the apron was in proper alignment during the drilling of the rest of the holes. This step could have been skipped and all of the holes drilled in one sitting. I stuck a piece of tape on the drill bit to mark the point where the drill had cut to the correct depth. This saves a lot of measuring for each hole. Note that one of the screw locations, on each side, falls directly over a hole in the frame. I just drilled down to the correct depth and did not worry about it breaking through. The 1/2 inch long screw will not intrude into this hole when it is installed. I did tap all the way, though, to insure there was sufficient threads to install the screw.

I used a #10 drill to open up the hole in the apron. The apron also serves as a major piece holding the frame square, so I chose to use the tighter tolerance hole for this application. For now I used regular machine screws to attach the plate, as this leaves the most options open for attaching any other parts that may be needed later. If I later find that the flathead screws can be used, I’ll counter sink the holes in the plate then.

The other frame side plate was drilled and taped in the same way. Figure 6 shows the installed apron on the reassembled frame. I left the front crosspiece in place for now. You will also notice that one screw is missing. It was that hole that gave me notice of the necessity of the block of wood! To fix this I need to tap the hole, insert a screw (with a high strength thread locking compound), and drill and tap a new hole.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Pilot Truck 06.jpg|Figure 6
</gallery>

The Pilot Truck Hinge Plate was installed next. As indicated in Figure 2 this plate is located against the step in the side frames. The plate can be installed in place on the assembled frame. As it butts up to the step in the frame, it can be located square at the step and by clamping bars to either side of the frame. If the frame ends up just a tad too wide, a couple of bar clamps can be used to squeeze the frame together.

Figure 7 shows the plate clamped in place and the frame clamped to the drill press table ready for drilling. The bar that will be drilled for the mounting holes is only 1/2 inch tall, so it is simpler to just drill all the way through the bar, then tap for the 10-32 by 1/2 inch screws. To do this the bar directly "below" the drilled bar is removed to provide clearance. These bars were then used as the clamping bars. The C clamps on either end of the bars are the ones that hold it to the frame. The fifth clamp is used to hold the plate down on the frame. This is slid down the bar until it presses down on the plate, then tightened to lock it in place. As for the apron, a block of wood supports the underside of the frame. A bar clamp was used to hold the plate against the frame step during drilling. The red handle to the left of the picture is the one for this clamp.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Pilot Truck 07.jpg|Figure 7
</gallery>

I again drilled and tapped one hole for a securing screw. I then repeated this for a screw on the other side. The other four holes were then drilled. The clamping bars were left in place until all the holes were drilled.

The drilled bars were then removed and both sides of the holes deburred. The chips were also cleaned from between the frame plates at the location where the middle bar was removed. All the bars were then reinstalled and the plate bolted in place. As with the apron regular machine screws were used for now.

Figure 8 shows the plate bolt on the frame.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Pilot Truck 08.jpg|Figure 8
</gallery>

=== Internal Stevenson Valve Gear ===

Minnie uses internal [[Stevenson valve gear|Stevenson type valve gear]] to operate the slide valves. This type uses four eccentrics and a link that is raised and lowered to control the timing of the steam admission and exhaust to the drive cylinders. Each cylinder is controlled by two eccentrics on the front axle, one for forward and one for reverse operation. Thus the need for four eccentrics total. [[Allen Models|Allen]] and other locomotives that have a reciprocating axle pump for feeding water into the boiler use a fifth strap and eccentric to power this pump. Minnie uses a different setup, and the fifth set is not needed. Figures 1 and 2 show the completed valve train. Note that this is a picture of the Bill's original prototype of Minnie, before he redesigned it for her present configuration. I will replace this with one of my locomotive's when I finish machining the parts.

Figure 3 shows most of the Allen castings used for Minnie's valve gear. Not shown are the castings for the eccentrics themselves and the castings for the straps (or yokes) that run on the eccentrics and impart a reciprocating motion to the rest of the gear train. I am going to turn the eccentrics from 2-3/4 inch [[HRS]] bar, and have not yet bought the strap castings. In the upper left is the Lifter Arm (part # M191). At the center top are the four Rocker Arms (part # M190). In the upper right is the Reverse Arm (part# M196). Bottom left are the Lifter Links, and the Rocker Shaft Bearings are at the bottom right.

Figure 4 shows more of the valve gear parts. The four plates on the lower left corner are the side plates for the rocker box (part of the bearing the shaft for the rocker arms that drive the valve slides). These are punched plates supplied by Bill Oberpriller. The round and square stock need to be bought locally. I'll list the sizes and uses, check Bill's page for the relevant drawings.

The 3/8 square stock is for the saddle links and the 1/2 square stock for the rod ends. The square stock shown is [[CRS]], but keystock, which many hardware and some auto parts stores carry can be substituted. These are generally galvanized, though, and some additional steps will be needed when the parts are painted.

The round stock is also [[CRS]], and they really have to be as they are used for the various shafts in the gear train, so smooth close tolerance stock is needed. They can be turned from the next size larger [[HRS]] round stock, but the [[CRS]] is a better choice. The sizes needed (in [[CRS]]) are: 1/2, 3/8, 5/16, and 3/16 inch. A foot or so is sufficient.

Figure 5 shows two of the castings for the eccentric shafts. I purchased the standard 5 straps, to provide me with the option of using an axle pump for the boiler feed, rather than (or in addition to) the pressure washer setup Minnie was designed to use.

=== Valve Gear Eccentrics ===

I chose to turn the eccentrics from 2-3/4 inch [[HRS]] round stock, rather than using the Allen castings. Figure 1 shows the drawing for an eccentric. The main reason is that I had the steel available. Even if I had had to purchase it, the place I bought it from sells by the foot, and for this size charged $10/ft. + $2 for the cut. After turning the parts I still have a decent stub and another 7 inches of material for some future project.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Valve Gear Eccentric 01.gif|Figure 1
</gallery>

Figure 2 shows the drawing for the initial turning of all four eccentrics from the bar (the dimensions for all but the diameters are not close tolerance). Note that the drawing is for just four eccentrics. I am not going to be using a traditional axle pump, so I did not make a fifth eccentric to drive the pump. I you will be using an axle pump, add a fifth eccentric to the drawing.

The initial turning is done with all four parts as part of the bar. After this machining the bar is removed from the chuck and the individual pieces cut apart. Except for the two faces the rest of the surfaces can be used as reference surfaces. The red outlines in the drawing represent the outline of a finished eccentric. You will notice that I left a generous 1/4 inch of cutting allowance. Those who have a higher level of skill, or better bandsaws can decrease this measurement as they see fit. This cutting allowance also comes into play in determining the overall length of the blank. To prevent wasting the stub I reversed the work in the jaws at a later stage and faced and turned the stub surface, so it will be ready to be chucked for some future project.

If you only have a 3 jaw chuck, I will describe a simple jig (in another section) that can be made from the stub to allow you to machine the axle hole and collar.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Valve Gear Eccentric 02.gif|Figure 2
</gallery>

I do not have a steady rest for my lathe, so I used the following method to chuck the bar centered for turning. To start the blank is cut off and the center of one end found using a set of [[Hermaphrodite calipers|hermaphrodite calipers]]. Figure 3 shows a set of this type of caliper. To use them you set the separation between the ends to a little greater then the radius of the bar. Then by placing the curved tip against the side of the bar just below the edge scribe an arc at the middle of the top surface (Figure 4). Repeat this for three other points at the rim about 90 degrees apart. What you will have is a "square" with curved sides. Scribe two lines diagonally between opposing corners. Where the two lines cross is the center of the circle. Figure 5 shows the marked and center punched bar, and Figure 6 is a close-up of the marks.

I center punched the intersection of the marks and placed the bar loosely in the chuck with the center punched end towards the tailstock. The tailstock (with a center installed) was then run up and the point of the center placed in the punched mark (Figure 7). With the bar thus aligned the chuck was tightened. The bar was now properly aligned, but the bar is long enough that end had to be supported by the tailstock during turning. For this, using a drill chuck in the tailstock, the end was center drilled with a small center drill, at a slow speed and gentle feed. Once the center drill starts it will help to hold the end of the bar as it continues to cut. The center was then installed and used to support the end. An out off square end can tend to throw the end of the bar slightly out of alignment. To correct this the end of the bar was faced as closely to the center as possible (Figure 8), and then the end was redrilled with a larger center drill, one large enough that the little bit left at the center was drilled away. The tailstock center was then reinserted and the machining started.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Valve Gear Eccentric 08.jpg|Figure 8
</gallery>

First the outside was turned until all the scale was removed. To aid in the rough turning the bar was coated with layout dye, the edges of the spines were measured and small marks scratched at the locations. A tool bit was then set at each mark and a light line scratched in the circumference with the work piece turned by hand. Figure 9 shows the results. The lines in the non-blued areas were virtually invisible with the work piece stationary, but once it started spinning they "poped" out of the background of machining marks. The rough cuts were brought up close to theses marks, and then when the finishing cuts were made those cuts were made until the line was hit. These marks were close enough for rough cutting the spines as the 1/8 inch thickness leaves plenty of "meat" for the finishing cuts, once the parts are separated.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Valve Gear Eccentric 09.jpg|Figure 9
</gallery>

The "valleys" diameters were turned to the finished size, and lightly run over with a file and sand paper to produce a smooth finish. The finished should be smooth, but don't get to the polished finish stage, until all the other machining is done. These surfaces will have to be gripped in the chuck jaws during later machining. The valley floor should be the same diameter across the whole length. The collar end will be used to chuck the part in while the strap end is faced. Whenever any type of abrasive is used on a piece in the lathe cover the bed to prevent any grit getting onto any of the ways, and clean up thoroughly before and after removing the covering!! The faces on either side of the spine also were accurately (perpendicularly, not to thickness yet) turned.

I started with a triangular (threading type bit) (Figure 10 center). A round nosed left/right bit would also be good, probably better, but I used an indexable carbide bit, so triangular was the only option. I used this bit to turn as much of the valley as possible, leaving the floor about 0.010 to 0.015 inch oversize. I then switched to a left and right tool (depending on which side of the spine I was facing) (Figure 10 left and right). I used these bits to both face the spine and cut the valley floors down to being 0.001 inch oversize. This extra was left as a filing and sanding allowance. Once again there is room on both sides of the specified diameter for error. As long as all the parts are the same diameter, any over or under error can be corrected when the straps are bored.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Valve Gear Eccentric 10.jpg|Figure 10
</gallery>

The face of the spine on the strap side is the finished surface, and the other side will be placed against the top of the chuck jaws to align the inner face of the strap end for final facing. The spine is left wider than the final thickness to allow for any correction that may be needed to bring the strap bearing surface to the correct thickness. The spine will be machined to final thickness when the collar is turned. The diameter of the spine is not critical. It serves to keep the strap from wandering off the eccentric, so as long as the diameter is close, it will operate satisfactorily.

Once the initial turning is completed (Figure 11), the bar is removed and the first 3 (three) eccentrics cut off. Return the bar to the lathe and chuck it by the end with the remaining eccentric (Figure 12). You will notice that I forgot about the need for brass shims to protect the eccentric surface during this operation. The reusable ones I made are described later. Face and turn the circumference of the former stub, truing those surfaces up. The stub is now ready to be used in some future project, rather than ending up as "a too short to use chunk" in the scrap box. Alternately it can be used for the the simple 3 jaw eccentric turning jig (described in the section so named). Remove the bar and separate the last eccentric.

To keep from marring the finished surfaces I made three simple reusable brass jaw covers as shown in Figure 13. These should be made so that they are shorter than the jaw height, so that the eccentric spine can set down on the jaw top.

Return the eccentrics to the 3 jaw chuck and face each side (Figure 14)(Note: Again before the brass jaw protectors). Starting with the strap end, bring the strap bearing surface to the correct thickness. Machine some of the spine thickness away if the area is too narrow after the facing operation. Reverse the part and face the collar end. You can either turn the spine to the proper thickness now, or wait until the axle hole and collar are turned later.

=== Valve Gear Eccentric Jig ===

See [[Turning an Eccentric Hole in a 3-Jaw Chuck]]

=== Drivers ===

Figure 1 shows the front and back views of the 8-1/2 inch square counter weight [[Allen Models|Allen]] driver castings. These castings are not semi-contoured in the tread area, as were the tender wheels, so a little more machining in that area will be required. The un-contoured tread area has a great advantage, however, the casting fits into my 8 inch 4-jaw chuck with the raised counter weight clear of the inner step of the one jaw!! No shims needed!!! In addition the back of the spokes will be machined to thin the cross section (as seen from the front), for better appearance. They will be held in the 8 inch 4-jaw chuck for the initial cuts, then will be transferred to the large wheel arbor to finish the tread.

Initial measurements of the casting showed that the front to back thickness of the outer rim of the castings were uniform within 0.003 inch, great! This looked to make the first setup, with the casting clamped in the chuck with the front toward the headstock, easy. However when I clamped the first casting I found that it was slightly banana shaped, leaving a small gap between the casting and one jaw! Not a terrible problem, I just had to reclamp the casting with an equal gap at the opposing jaws. As it turned out all the castings were the same way, so that is how they all were clamped. I could have, perhaps, fiddled with the castings, turning them until they sat down on all four jaws, but the gap was not bad enough to warrant the extra effort. The casting was centered for this setup by indicating on the outer rim surface. The castings were not at all regular in this area, so the actual center of the hub was not even close to centered, but just for facing the back, this was not important. The boring of the axle hole was done in a separate operation later in the process.

One labor saving item that speeded the machining was, as stated above, I could clamp the casting without having to shim to clear the counter weight. Figure 2A shows the counterweight just clearing the jaw. Figure 2B shows the casting mounted and ready for the back to be faced. For this operation I just took enough off the casting to remove the skin and get the entire surface flat. One casting seemed to be really rough. I "took" about 0.200 inch off it without getting more than a section of the outer rim cleaned up. It was about then that I realized I had forgotten to lock the carriage, and it had been slowly backing off as I machined the face!! Once the carriage was secured, the facing progressed at a faster pace.

I used a tin coated carbide bit for the facing of both the front and back surfaces. I started out with an initial speed of 70 RPM (backgear) for the outer rim, then went to 112 RPM (backgear) for the counter weight/spoke/outer hub area, and finally 164 RPM (direct drive) for the inner hub surface. I found that the 70 RPM speed in the spoke area caused too much banging of the backgear assembly with the interrupted cuts. 112 RPM worked much better with my Atlas lathe. The carbide bit held up very well with the interrupted cutting.

On the first two castings I also turned the outer rim to provide a "better" surface to clamp to when the castings were reversed. Unfortunately, the casting was too thin for this to work. I could not remove enough surface without hitting the jaws. Once it was turned around the jaws still hit the unmachined surface. All I had done was provided less area for the jaws to contact. The final two castings were left with the outside rim rough. Figure 3 shows the back of the first casting after facing, with the outer rim machined. Note that the discoloration's on the casting are oily paw prints, not any defect in the casting.

After reading a couple driver machining articles I decided to locate the center of the hub, drill a hole at this location on the drill press and insert a locating pin in the hole. When the casting was turned around to face the back to the final wheel thickness and bore the axle hole, I could use the pin pushed into the hole to locate the casting on center. All four drivers got this treatment. Figure 4 shows the wheel with the pin installed, on the lathe. Well, as I started to do the facing I discovered that the outer rim was not even close to being centered! It seems my "locating the center of the hub" skills needed a little more polishing!! As all four wheels had already been drilled I now faced a dilemma, how to recenter the wheels and finish drilling and boring out the axle hole. If I recentered the wheel the hole would be off making further drilling very difficult. If I stuck with the present hole as the axle hole the wheels would look "funky" when the locomotive was running. Also how to recenter the wheel with no central pin for the indicator reference, as stated above the outer rim was not a usable surface for this operation! I tried to use the outer wall of the grove in the front rim, but I had to bring the indicator in at an angle, and the banana shape of the front caused the indicator to hit the front surface, not the wall at two of the jaw locations.

Finally I hit on the a solution. I drilled the off center hole just big enough to accept a small boring bar, taking into account the offset once the wheel was recentered. A 1/2" hole was sufficient. Figure 5 shows the drilling setup. Notice that I am using a lathe dog clamped to the drill chuck to take the drilling torque. This prevents the drill chuck arbor from spinning in the tailstock ram. For 1/2" and smaller bits I use the dog clamped to the chuck. I insert the dog clamp screw into one of the key holes (I had to grind a dedicated dog to get the thickness down for this to work). For larger bits I clamp the dog to the bit with a brass shim between the clamp screw and the bit. The dog slides along the tool holder shank, as the hole is drilled.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Drivers Part 1 05.jpg|Figure 5
</gallery>

The wheel was then recentered using the inner (spoked area) of the rim as a reference. Normally you center the casting starting at jaws 1 and 3, then you go to 2 and 4 and center (which may move 1 and 2 off center a little). This is repeated until the workpiece is on center. However the counter weight prevented me from having a surface at jaw #4 to reference. The counter weigh is too large to be able to turn the casting to where all four jaws are clear. So I modified to locating process to the following (see Figure 6):

: 1. The casting was centered at the two opposing jaws that the counter weight did not block (1 and 3).
: 2. The indicator was then zeroed at this setting.
: 3. The wheel was then rotated to the unblocked jaw (#2) and this jaw was adjusted to the zero reading on the indicator.
: 4. This was repeated a couple times until the indicator reading changed to within a couple thousandths between jaws 1 & 3 and the jaw #2.

I pulled the tip of the indicator back when spinning the workpiece between the different jaw locations. This inner rim surface is rough. If I had not pulled back the plunger I might have damaged the tip when it caught on one of the surface peaks, or caused the indicator setup to be knocked out of position. I also wiggled the wheel a little when the tip was released to make sure the tip was not sitting on one of these projections. It was due to this roughness that I was satisfied with getting the wheel within a couple thousandths.

This looked a world of difference better running on the lathe! Next the driver was faced. I varied from Bill's drawings here. He calls for the driver to be machined so that the counter weight is the same height as the hub and rim. The Allen drawings have the counter weight projecting past the rim. I like Allen's setup better, as it is more prototypical, so that is how I machined mine. In the Allen drawings the counter weight on the main drivers (where drive rods attach) should be 1/4 inch higher than the rim, and on the other two drivers 1/8 inch. Once again I used the spindle speeds above when doing the facing. I started with the counterweight. Once this was surfaced, I reset the dial to 0 and faced the hub and rim 0.125 inch or 0.225 inch below the counterweight height. I did not have quite enough casting thickness left after facing the back to get a full 0.25 inch counterweight height for the main drivers.

At this time I did not machine the recessed grove at the inner rim. I'll do that when I machine the tread. It could be done now, but a special bit has to be ground, and I decided to continue on with the machining of the other wheels.

The, now, off center drilled axle hole was then bored out to a tight sliding fit on a cutoff 5/8" bolt body. The bolt was a little undersize, so the hole was bored undersize to match. This had the added benefit that I knew the hole was perpendicular to the front face of the wheel. The hole drilled on the drill press might not have been. Figure 7 shows the machined face of one of the 1/8" counterweight drivers.

The casting was then flipped around and centered using the setup shown in Figure 8. For this procedure I moved the topslide as far back as possible and set the indicator holder on the top of the dovetail ways. Once the indicator was positioned correctly I locked the carriage and used the crossfeed to zero the dial.

The back was then faced to bring the overall driver thickness to the 0.813 inch called out in the drawing. This thickness is measured at the outer rim, not the counterweight or inner rim. The back of the spokes were then faced an additional 1/16 inch deeper to reduce the width as seen from the front. I have seen 1/8 inch recommended for this cut, but I decided to play it safe and leave the spokes a little stronger.

The axle hole was then bored out to between 29/32 inch and 59/64 inch. The final diameter is not critical, the reamer will cut it to the final size. Just as long as the bored hole does not exceed 15/16 inch.

I encountered a problem here. When I went to mount the reamer in the tailstock chuck, the shank was too large!! Check yours before you get to this point! The kludge setup I tried so that I would not have to remove the wheel and chuck, did not work well, it cut a tapered hole. So I decided to make some sort of new mount for the reamer. Initially I decided to machine a 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch adapter, but after destroying an innocent piece of steel, I switched to turning down the reamer shaft. As it came, it had centers at each end so I mounted it between centers and turned down a length to 1/2 inch. Figure 9 shows the piece mounted and partially turned. As I had to mount a lathe dog on the shaft end during turning, I had to cut off the end. In addition I ground a flat just beyond the 1/2 inch section for a crescent wrench. The wrench will be used to prevent the reamer from turning during the cut. The forces may be too large for the drill chuck in the tailstock to resist, and I do NOT want to spin it while in the tailstock! Figure 10 shows the completed modifications.

Figure 11 shows the reaming of the axle hole. I used the same type of setup as when drilling, but using a wrench instead of a lathe dog to prevent the reamer from turning. I used the wrench to give me more leverage. The flat I ground on the reamer gives a more secure attachment with the wrench than a lathe dog would give on the flat or on a round shaft. Note that in the figure I had not yet recessed the spoke area. On the first driver I did this step last. On the others I recessed before reaming. This saved one tool bit change.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2>
File:Minnie Drivers Part 1 11.jpg|Figure 11
</gallery>

== Video ==

 
<videoflash>xZ3aow8QRvg</videoflash>

 
<videoflash>wYhdnZqN_lM</videoflash>

== External Links ==

* [https://web.archive.org/web/19990222095528/http://www.bridge.net/~billober/ Bill Oberpriller's "Minnie" Project Page, Archive.org]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20031021223637/http://home.att.net/~bill.oberpriller/ Bill Oberpriller's "Minnie-2" Project Page, Archive.org]
* [http://web.archive.org/web/20050828204751/http://www.the-spa.com/jim.cook/minnie.htm Jim Cook's Minnie Page, Archive.org]
* [http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/pdcrr/ Bret Kuebar's PDCRR page]
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20040519230034/http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/Minnie.htm Ron Thibault Minnie Build Page, Archive.org]
* [https://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=105994 "Regauging a 7 1/4" Minnie Project", Chaski.org]

Solar Tool & Die Inc

2018-07-12T15:08:48Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Suppliers]]

[[Solar Tool & Die Inc]], formerly of 720 N. Agnes, Kansas City, designed and built a variety of equipment for other manufacturing companies. They also produced a line of live steam products. The company President, David Huff, [http://www.bizjournals.com/kansascity/stories/2003/03/10/daily28.html announced the closure of the company on March 12, 2003], after 50 years of operation.

== Solar/Allen 10 wheelers ==

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=80445&start=15#p132022 Bruce Saylor posted on Chaski.org], 17 December 2008:

: I own 2 of these Solar/Allen 10 wheelers. They have [[Allen Models|Allen]] cylinders made up to look like piston valve locomotives. One I completed in Feb. 2006. I am now working on the second one. I hope to have it complete by the Winter Meet in Florida. If complete it will be for sale and if someone wants to buy it I will take it to run. It will be a coal burner.

: They used Allen castings for drivers, cylinders, stack, and dome pieces along with tender trucks. Everything was by CNC machining of which I know nothing about!

: 8 of these locomotives were partially built by Solar Tool and Die Co. First 4 were sold around 1999-2000. Last 4 were sold when they went out of business in 2003. Chassis were complete and are as fine as a watch. It is 7-1/2 inch gauge.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SolarAllen10Wheeler BruceSaylor 20081214 1.JPG
File:SolarAllen10Wheeler BruceSaylor 20081214 2.JPG
</gallery>

== Solar Dual Piston Pump ==

The following auction appeared on eBay, 16 September 2015:

: Up for sale is a 1.5" Scale First Run (Serial Number 196) Solar Dual Cylinder Water Pump. This pump is brand spankin new and comes with the original Solar Installation Documentation. These pumps are highly sought after by live steamers and collectors alike. They have a reputation for flawless operation, ease of installation and reliability that can't be beat.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SolarWaterPump1.jpg
File:SolarWaterPump2.jpg
File:SolarWaterPump3.jpg
File:SolarWaterPump4.jpg
File:SolarWaterPump5.jpg
File:SolarWaterPump6.jpg
File:SolarWaterPump7.jpg
</gallery>

== External Links ==

* [http://www.bizjournals.com/kansascity/stories/2003/03/10/daily28.html "KC tool-and-die company will close after 50 years", Kansas City Business Journal]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=80445&start=15#p132022 "Allen Mogul with Walshaert valve gear", Chaski.org]

File:RDeanmachingcradle.jpg

2018-07-12T15:08:21Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

Bob Dean machining a rear cradle for a 1.5 inch Pacific. From http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=99171&p=309427&hilit=Bob+Dean#p309427

Bob Dean Supply

2018-07-12T15:08:08Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Suppliers]]

Products:

* 1.5 inch scale
* Reflex Sight Glass
* Boxpok Driver Castings

[[File:RDeanmachingcradle.jpg|thumb|center|300px|Bob Dean machining a rear cradle for a 1.5 inch Pacific.]]
== External Links ==

* [http://www.bobdeansupply.com/livesteam.html# Official website]
* [http://www.bobdeansupply.com/SteelHandbookBDS.pdf "Steel and Machine Shop Handbook", PDF]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=99171&hilit=Bob+Dean "Boston & Albany K6b Pacific", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=99362&p=311685&hilit=Bob+Dean#p311685 "Bob Dean Gauge", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=97802&hilit=Bob+Dean "Who sells reflex sight glasses", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=81919 "Bob Dean Sight Glass Update", Chaski.org]

<img src="http://free.pagepeeker.com/v2/thumbs.php?size=x&url=bobdeansupply.com%2Flivesteam.html%23" />

Louis Arnold

2018-07-12T15:07:47Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

== 1 inch Pacific ==

'''Father, Sons Construct Live Steam Locomoative'''

by Charles H. Kelly

News Staff Writer

"The Comberland News"

Cumberland, Maryland

14 December 1959

[[File:Arhold Cumberland News Dec 14 1959.jpg|thumb|center|500px|Little Janie Arnold, seven-year-old daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Daniel H. Arnold, Jr., Mt Savage Road, holds on tight as she gets a ride on the live steam locomotive being operated by her cousin, [[Richard Arnold]], 19, also of Mt. Savage Road, who constructed the locomotive with his father, Louis Arnold, and younger brother, William, 16. The steam locomotive which was a tender and flat car capable of hauling three adults runs along a miniature railroad system located in the yard of the home of Louis Arnold, who is a machinist supervisor at the Kelly-Springfield Tire Company plant here. The three members of the family completed the project in about five years, having worked in the basement "roundhouse".]]

A toy train winding its way out of a tunnel toward the peaceful village in a Christmas tree yard fascinates young and old, but a Mt. Savage Road father and his two sons went steps farther and built a scale model live steam locomotive sturdy enough to haul three adults over a miniature railroad system in the yard of the home.

Over five years ago [[Louis Arnold]], his son [[Richard Arnold|Richard]], now 19, and William, about 16, obtained specifications from [[Irene Lewis]], a California hobby concern, and blueprints from the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company.

They studied the B&O blueprints very carefully and scaled them down one inch to the foot and modeled the locomotive after one of the railroad's 5300 Pacific type 4-6-2's (four wheel lead truck, six driving wheels and two wheel trailer truck.)

''Makes First Run''

After going over the detailed specifications and plans time and again, materials were purchased and things began humming in the basement workshop of the Arnold residence.

The first run was made in March this year (1959) and periodically members of the family fire up the boiler and go for a ride over about 520 feet of track including some 100 feet from a switch to the basement "roundhouse" where a caboose is now under construction.

The system is located along the out edge of the Arnold property and the track is laid in the front and back yards. From rail to rail the track width is less than five inches.

Mr. Arnold, a machinist supervisor at the Kelly-Springfield Tire Company plant had plenty of railroading "know how" when he began constructing the steam engine and tender. He learned his machinist trade as an employee of the old Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad which had shops in Mt. Savage.

He completed his time in 1939 and worked for the C&P until 1943. His father, Daniel H. Arnold Sr., Frostburg, was a conductor for the C&P and Western Maryland Railway Company and worked out of Ridgeley just before he retired. Arnold's father=-in-law, the late John E. Barth, was wreck master of the C&P until the tune of his death.

In their childhood days, the two Arnold brothers became fascinated with O and S gauge model trains and later showed interest in live steam locomotives.

Added kindling to the fire of enthusiasm was noted when the boys went to Canada with their dad to compare ideas with other steam club enthusiasts. While across the border they saw other scale model trains in action.

The locomotive and tender are about eight feet in length overall and about ten inches wide. The flat car is lengthy enough to accommodate two passengers comfortably.

The flat car was built by [[Richard Arnold|Richard]], a graduate of Mt. Savage High School who is now employed at Smith Engineering at LaVale. William worked along with his father and older brother.

The "engineer" who sits on the tender, merely lifts the roof of the locomotive and has easy access to the throttle and reverse gear of the engine which will "chug" along to speeds of seven miles per hour.

A steam gauge, water glass, feed water pump, steam whistle and headlight powered by batteries must be in perfect working condition at all times.

The locomotive's cooper boiler with its flue tubes is covered with a layer of asbestos and blue steel jacket which gives a sleek polished look to the engine.

Mr. Arnold said the tender is capable of holding about eight gallons of water. Two buckets of coal are ample fuel for a day's run, he added. Within eight hours about 24 gallons of water are usually necessary to furnish the necessary steam power.

Quarter-inch wide black iron rails were placed on pre-grooved cross ties which are about three inches apart on the ballast bed of the trackage. The ties, treated with creosote, were pre-cut with a power saw in the basement workshop. This required many hours of tedious work. To give you an idea, about 1,800 ties were turned out.

While laying out the course of the railroad system the Arnolds ran into dips in the terrain and filled them in with soil to assure a smooth ride along the rails.

They knocked out part of the wall of the foundation of their house in order to get the train into the roundhouse at the end of a day's run.

Grownups in the area, rather than youngsters, seemed to be more enthused about riding on the train, said Mr. Arnold, who read hobby books with stories on live-steam locomotives to get additional ideas on how to construct the locomotive, tender and flat car.

== 7.25 inch guage Hudson ==

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=51158&p=51205&hilit=Louis+Arnold#p51205 Steampipe posted on Chaski.org]:

: I aquired the loco from the original builder [[Richard Arnold|Rich Arnold]] who along with his father Louis, built this from 1987-89. Shortly after completion Louis passed on and the loco was put into storage having run only 4 times. I purchased it this past spring. It is an excellent runner, free steamer and good looker. Was wondering about the pedigree of the castings. By the way, it is 7.25 inch gauge.

[[File:Arnold Hudson Steampipe.jpg|thumb|center|500px]]

== External Links ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=51158&p=51205&hilit=Louis+Arnold#p51205 "Canadian Castings", Chaski.org]

Myrtle Grove Belt Line

2018-07-12T15:07:07Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Tracks]]
[[Myrtle Grove Belt Line]]

W.P. Johnston

Box 991

El Dorado, Arkansas

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 6

[[File:WPJohnston 1956 1.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]

I enclose a couple of photographs of my railroad, which I call the [[Myrtle Grove Belt Line]]. I have broken about every rule in the book in building this
layout. About 50% of it is welding, because I have a good welding outfit, the
balance machining. I used castings from [[Irene Lewis]] for the drive
wheels and cylinders, building up the rest from welded steel. My locomotive
is a 1-1/2 inch Pacific. I have a steel caboose, complete with working doors
and glass windows. It is welded steel, plenty strong enough for two adults to
ride upon. Then I have a tank car, in which I carry water and two gondola
cars with seats. Little kids are fascinated by the latches on the caboose
doors, but the engine gets the most attention from the grown-ups. We are
using diesel oil for fuel, after having an unfortunate experience with
gasoline. Came near losing the whole layout, and my son along with it. The
burner we are using now works very well, and makes plenty of steam, but of
course we have to clean flues oftener than we did with gasoline. We have a
combination engine house and turn table, and have just completed a special
four wheel trailer to haul our equipment in, as our railway is a mile from my
shop. The track runs around a pond, with two steel trestles. Track is 620
feet long, almost a scale mile.

Now there is where the departure from standard starts. The rail is 1 inch by
1/2 inch channel, with the smooth side in, welded to ties made of 3/4 inch
round steel rods 12 inches long every six inches. All the railroad men said
it could not be done, but I did, and it worked out fine. I used steel tires
because I had the material and the welding equipment, and could lay them
faster. I used steel channel for the rails because it was readily obtainable
at 8-1/2 cents per foot whereas aluminum rail would have been 25 cents per
foot, plus freight from California. Also, it would not weld well to steel.

[[File:WPJohnston 1956 2.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]

It took four men four days to lay and weld the track. It was a little rough
when finished, but subsequent straightening operations have helped it a whole
lot. Anyway, we have had very few derailments. Having no wooden ties, I use
a weed burner to kill the grass along the right of way.

The locomotive is the second I have built the first being a 1/2 inch scale,
also a Pacific. I spent eight years, off and on, building the first engine,
but my son and I built the big one in a little less than one year. The frame
is built up of 3/4 inch square [[CRS]] steel, welded of course. And of course
it warped a little, but with a gas torch, straight edge, and a fairly good eye,
we soon had it as straight as a die. Main bearings are Timken roller. I
attached short lengths of flexible tubing to each main bearing, and brought
them out to the side, where I could get at them easily for greasing. We have
an excellent whistle, which is about 1-1/2 inch by 14 inch, has four tones,
and fastened under the left running board. Smoke box is split, which I
thought was my own idea, but read in [[The North American Live Steamer]] about
the same idea recently. Also I used the idea of a slide valve throttle,
actuated by a rod running through the dry pipe to the boiler head. I did not
like the idea of having a stuffing box in the hot smoke box. The tender has
two compartments, front for water and back for fuel. We carry about 25 pounds
pressure on the fuel tank, so that the fuel comes to the burner O.K. Tender
is riveted instead of welded, but the rivets on the caboose are imitation, but
a very good imitation, as you can hardly tell they are not real rivets. You
published a picture of my Pacific in your first issue, when I only had the
frame and chassis finished. All in all, my outfit is not perfect, but it sure
runs and pulls well, and we are pretty well satisfied with it.

Being the only live steamer in this vicinity who has actually constructed a
small railroad, I get a little lonesome for fellow live steamers, so if anyone
lives within 300 miles of El Dorado, Arkansas and wants to visit me, they are
more than welcome. I belong to the [[Southern California Live Steamers]]. I
was out to their meet at Lomita in 1954, and am going out to Santa Barbara
next month to visit my good friend [[Seymour F. Johnson]] at his Oak Grove
ranch and ride his Goleta Valley line. Maybe I can visit some of you Live
Steamers up Michigan way next year.

C.J. Hull

2018-07-12T15:06:08Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]
[[Category:Construction]]
[[C.J. Hull]]

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 4

[[File:CJHull Photo1.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Photo 1]]

Here are three of the pictures that I promised to have made for you.

Photo 1 is a fair view of the fabricated drive wheels 6-1/4 inch on the
tread. They look quite a bit like cast ones.

Photos 1 and 2 give a good view of the fabricated cylinder block. The
data on this is:

* 1-1/2 inch bore
* 2-1/2 inch stroke
* Piston valves (no rings as yet) 7/8 inch dia by 3/4 inch travel, long lap,
* 75% cutoff

The cross head in Photo 1 is a [[Martin Lewis]] casting, modified to
the laird type---back cylinder head is also [[Martin Lewis]] material treated
likewise. No alteration on the valve guide head. The side and main rods are
1040 [[HRS]] torch cut to shape and hand ground to produce the profile.
Motion work all cut from solid material and electric welded where necessary.
All of the truck wheels were torch cut from 3/4 inch 1040 [[HRS]] plate.

[[File:CJHull Photo2.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Photo 2]]

Photo 3 not so good. It's supposed to show the fabricated trucks, but
it's a little dark under there. Nevertheless, they are fully sprung with
swing motion centering, as is the front engine truck, which uses heart link
centering. Tender tank is 12 gauge steel, all welded construction--frame is
1x1x1/8 inch angle also welded.

: C.J. Hull
: Dominguez Short Line
: Long Beach, California

[[File:CJHull Photo3.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Photo 3]]

== Where to Get It ==

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1, Number 9

One thing I have noticed that exceeds others is, "Where can I get this or that, for this part, it has to be this size?". I, too, am a practical minded man. I, to, want something for a job now and then, but the cost of some materials needed is beyond my purse, so I start looking for a reasonably good substitute that will do the job and can be trusted to give reasonable service.

We have several classes of live steamers with one thing in mind - build and enjoy our live steam projects, be what it may. This note deals with all of you who, at some time or other, hesitates at cutting a couple of inches off an expensive piece of stock for a part that has to give good service and be tough about it.

There are innumerable keys, pins, levers as in valve gear and other motion parts. Long stud bolts that must be tougher and harder than mild steel. So to some of us, drill rod and tool steels are out of the question. (I've been out on strike since December 1956). So lets take a couple of our hard earned bucks and pay a visit to our local welding supply house. He has, or can get, a wide variety of arc welding electrodes used in hard facing work. These are coated rods and are annealed and can be filed, drilled and machined with ease. The coating on most of them is very thin and easy to remove. They are manufactured in several sizes ranging from 3/32 inch through 3/16 inch and up to 14 inches in length. Don't try to use the "wire" types, as they are not all of uniform diameter and are extremely hard. Lets ask for some "100 hardweld". It is made by the Lincoln Electric Co., with a light tan coating easy to remove. Three sizes: 3/32 inch, 5/32 inch and 3/16 inch. It will air harden or can be made into a real tough part by heating to cherry red and dunking in cold water or oil. If your supplier doesn't handle Lincoln electrodes, get them made by G.E., Westinghouse, P & H or N.C.G. (National Cylinder & Gas). These are all equal in quality, but heavier coating. Also, we can buy 50 pounds of this material for the price of 10 pounds of drill rod or tool steels.

Now for some other items needed: 1/4 inch diameter brazing rod (brass or bronze) for hand rail supports, etc., 3/32 inch or 1/8 inch stainless steel, heliarc welding wire for the hand rails. Both of these come in 36 inch lengths, plenty left over to play with.

OK! Now you have the idea and I'm sure your local dealer will et you look around and "feel" the stock, so to speak, and see what you are buying.

For the fellows who don't have to watch their budgets too close, they can really get in some practice and not waste expensive material on trial pins, bolts, etc.

Also, for all of us, the welding supply house can supply all sizes of mild steel electrodes from 1/16 inch through 3/8 inch brazing wires, both brass and bronze 1/16 inch through 3/8 inch - some brands of brass wires contain quite a bit of aluminum which makes them hard to drill or turn.

In closing, lets not sell short the lowly wire coat hanger. Its just the size you need for those long No. 3 studs.

[[File:CJHull Locomotive 1957.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
Enclosed is a picture of the finished job here, which uses some of all the materials mentioned in the foregoing note. "100 hardweld", for motion pins and keys, 3/32 inch stainless for hand rails, 1/4 inch brass brazing rod for hand rail supports.

If you don't have a welding supply house near you try the nearest hardware, garage or blacksmith or welding shop. Who can tell what you will find. Remember, "When in doubt, ask!"

Good steaming for 1957.

: C.J. Hull
: Dominguez Short Line
: Long Beach, California

Elm Ridge Manufacturing

2018-07-12T15:04:55Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Suppliers]]

Owner Bill Esther writes:

: At one time we worked for Betty Cole, of [[Coles Power Models|Cole's Power Models]] (1976-1980). At that time we machined all of their scale pipe fittings, the 1/8th and 3/16th whistles, and built 39 Worthington Pumps. I have been associated with the Live Steam hobby since the early 1950s."

: If you would like, you could go to the [[Friends Models|Yankee Shop]] website and look at the Tom Thumb picture, which is the one my friend and I built in 1954. It’s shown sitting on the turntable at Lomita, California.

== External Links ==

* [http://www.elmridgemfg.com/ Official website]

<img src="http://free.pagepeeker.com/v2/thumbs.php?size=x&url=elmridgemfg.com" />

File:LeoMeyers SCLS.jpg

2018-07-12T15:04:24Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

Leo Meyers of St. Louis, MO, on the turn table with his 0-4-0 tanker. Taken at the [[Southern California Live Steamers]] track in 1954. This is a beautifully constructed engine and is gasoline fired. From [[The North American Live Steamer]], March 1956.

Leo Myers

2018-07-12T15:04:09Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

[[File:LeoMeyers SCLS.jpg|thumb|center|500px|Leo Meyers of St. Louis, MO, on the turn table with his 0-4-0 tanker. Taken at the [[Southern California Live Steamers]] track in 1954. This is a beautifully constructed engine and is gasoline fired. From [[The North American Live Steamer]], March 1956.]]

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=83582&hilit=Leo+Meyers&start=12 Tim posted on Chaski.org]

: Leo Meyers of the St louis Mo area had his engines in the General movie. The General, the Texas and the Yonah he had built all in 1" scale. All three are museum quality. They were shipped over to Spain to be used in the making of the movie.

== Ozark Lines ==

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 8

Prior to our visit to the [[Southern California Live Steamers|S.C.L.S]] meet at Lomita, California in 1954 I had planned to build a pike in our back yard, but met with opposition from the better half because of her flower beds. The idea of an elevated track on posts was just out of the question. At this meeting I had the pleasure of meeting our editor Kenneth Stanaback and he informed me that his track was laid on the ground in concrete and had stood the winter freeze and thaws.

So, after inspecting [[Ollie Johnston]]'s track at Flintridge and [[Richard Day|Bob Day]]'s track at Santa Monica, both of which were beautifully landscaped, we decided to construct a track laid in solid concrete using 1-1/8 inch square redwood ties and aluminum rail. All 1 inch scale.

A 250 foot oval with a 40 foot turnout and a siding that leads to the round house in the basement where 15 feet of track accommodates the Atlantic and the 0-4-0 switcher. A 4-foot culvert, 7 foot girder bridge and a 14 foot redwood trestle are included in the track. Air and water are piped to the steaming patio.

The main and side rods, valve gear on the Atlantic were machined from solid stainless steel and finished with 600 grit cloth.

Switch points and frogs are machined from solid 24 ST aluminum.

: Leo Myers
: 8121 Stratford Ave
: St. Louis 24, Missouri

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956.jpg|Leo Myers on his 1 inch scale Atlantic running freight on his Ozark Lines railroad.
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956 2.jpg
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956 3.jpg
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956 4.jpg
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956 5.jpg
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956 6.jpg
File:LeoMyers OzarkLines 1956 7.jpg
</gallery>

IBLS Library

2018-07-12T15:03:45Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Little Engines */

== Information ==

For information regarding the [[IBLS Library]] please contact [[Daris A Nevil]].

== Books ==

=== Models ===
* [[0-8-0 Candian Switcher Caribou|"0-8-0 Canadian Switcher "Caribou" in 3-1/2 inch gauge"]], [[Martin Evans]], 1977
* "The Best of Live Steam", Joe Rice, Wildwood, 1985
* "Building a Steam Engine from Castings", Edgar T. Westbury, PDF
* "A Climax Class A Live Steam Locomotive Model", Ed Hume, 2017
* "Civil Engineering for Outdoor Railroads, Volume I", Douglas van Veelen, AuthorHouse, 2005
* "Diesel Modeler's Guide Volume 1", Randall B. Lee, 1996
* "[[Falk No. 1 Locomotive]]", [[William Harris|William M. Harris]], Village Press, 2006
* "How (not) to paint a locomotive", Christopher Vine, 2006
* [[Large-scale Model Railroading]], [[T. A. Hill]] and [[Bill Koster|W. C. Koster]]
* [[LBSC's Shop Shed & Road]], second printing, 1974
* [[LBSC's Famous 4-4-0 Virginia]], 1975
* "Locomotive Valve Setting", Frank Williams, 1944, PDF
* [[Maisie A Great Northern 4-4-2]]
* [[Manual of Model Steam Locomotive Construction]], [[Martin Evans]], Third Edition, 1967
* [[Master Railroad Builder]]
* [[Miniature Railways]]
* [[The Miniature World of Henry Greenly]]
* "Model Engineering: A Guide To Model Workshop Practice", Henry Greenly, 1915
* [[The Model Injector]], Ted Crawford, 1999
* [[The Model Locomotive From Scratch]]
* [[Model Locomotive Valve Gears]], [[Martin Evans]], 1962
* "Outdoor Model Railways", Martin Evans, PDF
* "The Pennsylvania A3 Switcher: The First Project for the Beginner", Kozo Hiraoka, Village Press, 2001
* "Simple Model Locomotive Building - Introducing LBSC's TICH", Revised Edition 1976
* "Soldering and Brazing", Tubal Cain

=== Prototypes ===
* "The 1925 Modern American Locmotive: Construction and Operation", Frederick J. Prior, 1925
* "Album of Historical Steam Traction Engines and Threshing Equipment No. 1", Floyd Clymer, 1949
* "The American Railway"
* "Bladwin Pacific Type Locomotives", Baldwin Locomotive Works, 1914, reprint Periscope Film LLC,, 2010
* "Car and Locomotive Plans for Model Railroaders", Santa Fe and Model Railroader, 1953
* "The Classic Eastern American Railroad Routes", Brian Solomon, Chartwell Books Inc, 2011
* "Daily except Sundays - The Diaries of a Nineteenth Century Locomotive Engineer", Dana Adams Story, 2005
* "Diesel Locomotives - Cyclopedia Volume 2", Model Railroader
* "E Units - Electro-Motive's Classic Streamliners", Jeff Wilson, Kalmbach Publishing Co, 2002
* "Firing the Steam Locomotive", The Reading Company, 1947
* "Giants of the Rails", [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S._Kip_Farrington S. Kip Farrington, Jr], Garden City Publishing Company, Inc, 1944
* "The History of the Southern Pacific", Bill Yenne, Smithmark Publisher Inc, 1995
* "The History of the Western Rarilroads", Jane Eliot, Crescent Books, 1996
* "How to Draw Locomotives", Paul B. Mann, The Studio
* "The Golden Age of the Passenger Train", C.J. Riley
* "LOCO 1 -- The Diesel", Model Craftsman Publishing Company
* "Panama-Pacific International Exposition", American Locomotive Company, 1915, PDF
* "The Railroad Caboose", Mike Schafer, 2002
* "Steam Locomotives", Luciano Greggio, 1977
* "Texas Electric Railway", Johnnie J. Myers, Central Electric Railfans' Association, 1982
* "Virginia & Truckee - A Story of Virginia City and Comstock Times", Lucius Beebe & Charles Clegg, Fifth Ed. 1963

=== History ===
* "Walt Disney's Railroad Story", PDF
* "The History of Railroads and Interrubans of Collin County, Texas", Joy Gough, 1997

== Periodicals ==

=== [[Live Steam & Outdoor Railroading]] ===

* Contributors
** Allan and Theresa Cleveland, September 2014
** [[Daris A Nevil]]

* 1966: Aug, Sep (Live Steam Newsletter)
* 1967: Jan, May, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov/Dec
* 1968: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jul, Aug, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1969: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1970: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1971: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1972: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1973: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1974: Jan, Feb, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1975: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1976: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1978: Jan, Feb, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1979: Jan, Mar, Apr, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1980: Jan, Feb, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov
* 1981: Feb, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1982: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1983: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1984: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1985: Jan, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1986: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1987: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct, Dec
* 1988: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1989: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1990: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1991:
* 1992: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 1993: Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 1994: Jan/Feb, May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 1995:
* 1996: Mar/Apr, Nov/Dec
* 1997: Mar/Apr
* 1998: Sep/Oct
* 1999: Jul/Aug, Nov/Dec
* 2000:
* 2001:
* 2002:
* 2003:
* 2004:
* 2005: Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 2006:
* 2007: Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 2008: Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 2009: Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Nov/Dec
* 2010:
* 2011:
* 2012: Nov/Dec
* 2013: May/Jun, Sep/Oct
* 2014:
* 2015:
* 2016: May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 2017: Jan/Fed, Mar/Apr, May/Jun, Jul/Aug, Sep/Oct, Nov/Dec
* 2018: Jan/Feb, Mar/Apr, May/Jun

=== [[The Modelmaker]] ===

* 1930: Jan, Apr, May, Jun
* 1932: Aug, Sep, Oct
* 1933: Feb, Mar, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct
* 1934: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jul/Aug, Nov, Dec
* 1935: Feb, Apr, Jul/Aug, Oct, Nov, Dec,
* 1936: Mar, Apr, JunJul
* 1938: Feb/Mar
* 1939: Oct, Nov

=== [[Modeltec]] ===

* 1984: May (first issue), Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1985: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1986: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1987: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1988: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1989: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov
* 1990: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1991: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep
* 1992:
* 1993:
* 1994: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1995: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1996: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1997: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1998: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1999: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 2000: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun/Jul, Aug/Sep, Oct, Nov
* 2000/2001: Dec 2000/Jan 2001
* 2001: Feb, Mar/Apr
* 2002: Jan/Feb

=== [[The Model Craftsman]] ===

* 1933: Jul, Nov
* 1934: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May-Jun, Jul-Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1935: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul-Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1936: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1937: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1938: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1939: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1940: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1941: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov, Dec
* 1942: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, Jul, Sep, Nov
* 1943: Jun, Aug, Sep, Oct, Dec
* 1944: Feb, Sep, Oct, Nov
* 1945: Apr, Jun, Jul, Aug, Oct, Nov
* 1946: Aug, Oct
* 1947: Jan, Feb, Mar, May, Jun, Aug, Sep, Dec
* 1948: Jan, Feb, Mar, Apr, May, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Dec
* 1949: Oct

=== [[The Live Steamer]] ===

* Volume 1, Number 1, January-February 1950
* Volume 1, Number 2, March-April 1950
* volume 1, Number 3, May-June 1950
* Volume 1, Number 4, July-August 1950
* Volume 1, Number 5, September-October 1950
* Volume 1, Number 6, November-December 1950
* Volume 2, Number 1, January-February 1951
* Volume 2, Number 2, March-April 1951
* Volume 2, Number 3, May-June 1951
* Volume 2, Number 4, July-August 1951
* Volume 2, Number 5, September-October 1951
* Volume 2, Number 6, November-December 1951

=== [[The Miniature Locomotive]] ===

* January-February 1953
* July-August 1953

=== [[The North American Live Steamer]] ===

* Volume 1, Number 1 (January 1956) through Volume 1, Number 12

== Catalogs ==

=== [[Allen Models]] ===

* Allen Models of Michigan, 2013

=== [[Caldwell Industries]] ===

* 1969 Craftsmanship Catalog
* 1970 Craftsmanship Catalog

=== [[Coles Power Models ]] ===

* Catalog No 5, 1934
* Catalog No 11, 1947
* Catalog No 15, 1953
* Catalog No 16, 1956
* Catalog No 19, 1963
* Catalog No 21, 1970

=== [[Denison Live Steam Models]] ===

* [http://ibls.org/files/Catalogs/DenisonLiveSteamModels/DenisonLiveSteamModels_Cat_April1963.pdf Denison Live Steam Models Catalog, April 1963]

=== [[Friends Models]] ===

* Catalog 2
* Catalog 5A

=== [[Kennion Brothers]] ===

* Catalog (partial)

=== [[Koster's Miniature Railroad Supplies, Inc]] ===

* Catalog 6-B
* Catalog 1972

=== [[Miller Backyard Railroads]] ===

* Catalog 1957
=== [[Railroad Supply Corporation]] ===

* 6th Edition Catalog, 1975
* 8th Edition Catalog
* 10th Edition Catalog, 1987
* "Engineering Handbook for Recreational Railroads"
* "A Visit to Railroad Supply Corporation" (video), 1984

=== [[Scale Locomotives Incorporated]] ===

* 1-1/2 Inch Scale Live Steam Locomotives, 1975

=== [[Steam Electric Company]] ===

* [http://ibls.org/files/Catalogs/SteamElectricCompany/SteamElectricCompany_1930_Catalog.pdf Steam Electric Company 1930 Catalog, reprinted in 1968 by The Train Collectors Association]

=== [[Texas Railway Supply Inc]] ===

* 2nd Edition Catalog, 1973

=== [[Winton Locomotive Works]] ===

* Catalog 2011

=== [[Yankee Shop]] ===

* Yankee Shop Machinists, 1946
* Yankee Shop Machinists, 1947

== Other Libraries ==

* [http://livesteamohio.homestead.com/ClubLibrary.html Northeastern Ohio Live Steamers Library]
* [http://austinandtexascentral.com/ "The Ranch Library", Austin & Texas Central Railroad]

Neff Model Manufacturing Company

2018-07-12T15:03:24Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Suppliers]]
[[Category:People]]

[[Neff Model Manufacturing Company]] was owned and operated by [[Roll Neff|Roll G. Neff]] of East Worcester, New York.

== History ==

[http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/t/59367.aspx Nickie, Classic Toy Trains, wrote on 8 March 2006:]

: There was a complete history of the Neff Model Manufacturing Company printed in [[Live Steam Magazine]] (see [[Neff Model Manufacturing Company#References|References]]).

: [[Roll Neff]] was a machinist of exceptional skill. He built his first O gauge locomotive in the late 1930s as a test platform to see what would work and what would not. Over the next 25 years, he custom built many O gauge locomotives - they were propane fired some were remote controlled. Usually this was not necessary - with a heavy train and a good track with well banked curves, additional control was not necessary. The locos would run until the fuel was exhausted - the boiler capacity and tender water supply being sufficient to keep the water level up so as to avoid running dry.

: Neff's locomotives ranged from a 4-4-0 with Stephenson gear to at least one 2-10-4 and several UP Big Boys. He was located in New York state and died either in the 1960s or 1970s. I had a letter from him in the mid 1960s when I was trying to find an O gauger - at that time he had only one Big Boy in stock which was too big for my purposes.

: [[Martin Lewis]] sold about 600 sets of O gauge castings over the years. Occasionally I see one of their locomotives but they are few and far between. Neff built between 50 and 100 locomotives. There were other custom builders during the 1920s and 1930s however most live steam locomotives were either Bassett-Lowke low pressure models or Bowman oscillators.

== Advertisements ==

From [[The Live Steamer]], March-April 1951

: Neff O Gauge Live Steamers

: On hand for immediate deliver.

: * 1 Custom Heavy Pacific - $445.00
: * 1 Custom Light Pacific - $345.00 (Lobaugh chassis)

: Both are good looking, sweet running models.

: Neff Model MFG Co., E. Worcester, N.Y.

== Mallet ==

[[The Live Steamer]], September-October 1951

: Photo is of [[Roll Neff]]'s latest O gauge custom built Mallet which uses propane gas fuel stored in tender fuel tank. This engine uses an ounce of water per three minutes of running, pulling a 30 pound load on a tight circle test track and has a tractive effort of 1-3/4 pounds. Boiler is of Neff's firebox watertube type and supplies steam to all four cylinders. It would be interesting to see what this engine would do with a good load on a load straight track. An unusual feature in O gauge is the [[Cylinder_cocks#Small_Cylinder_Cocks|Neff working cylinder cocks]] in this size, which have been mentioned and oulined in a past [[The Live Steamer|Live Steamer]] article.

[[File:RollNeff Mallet OGauge 1951.jpg|thumb|center|500px]]

== UP Big Boy ==

A Roll Neff UP Big Boy 4004 live steam locomotive was sold at auction on eBay, July 2016. The final bid was $15,100US. The description listed the weight of the locomotive at 20 pounds and 34 inches long.

<gallery widths=400px heights=400px perrow=2>
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 1.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 2.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 3.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 4.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 5.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 6.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 7.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 8.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 9.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 10.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 11.jpg
File:RollNeff BigBoy OGauge 12.jpg
</gallery>

== UP 9000 ==

[http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/79919.aspx Posted by Anonymous on Model Railroader blog]:

: The engine has been positively identified as being scratch built by [[Roll Neff]]. It is one of his later engines. Possibly in the 1970's. Mr. Neff built just over 50 engines in his career spanning 40 years from the 1930's to the 1970's. He built a variety of engines specifically to fill custom orders. This is probably the only example he made of the famous UP 9000.

: I had been under the impression that the motor in the tender was to feed water to the boiler. It is actually a throttle! Power is supplied via the rails and when the motor turns it pushes or pulls a cable connected to the throttle. No need for remote control!

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow=2>
File:RollNeff UP9000 1.jpg
File:RollNeff UP9000 2.jpg
File:RollNeff UP9000 3.jpg
File:RollNeff UP9000 4.jpg
File:RollNeff UP9000 5.jpg
File:RollNeff UP9000 6.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 7.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 8.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 9.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 10.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 11.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 12.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 13.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 14.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 15.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 16.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 17.JPG
File:RollNeff UP9000 18.JPG
</gallery>

== Hudson ==

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:RollNeff OGauge Hudson 01.jpg|This is a Live Steam ‘O’ Gauge Hudson made by Neff Model Locomotive Works, Chagrin Falls, Ohio. From [http://cs.trains.com/ctt/f/95/t/59367.aspx Classic Toy Trains]
File:RollNeff OGauge Hudson 02.jpg
File:RollNeff OGauge Hudson 03.jpg
File:RollNeff OGauge Hudson 04.jpg
File:RollNeff OGauge Hudson 05.jpg
</gallery>

== Pacific ==

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:Neff Model Mfg Postcard Advert Front.jpg
File:Neff Model Mfg Heavy Pacific Postcard Back.jpg
</gallery>

Neff live steam Pacific. O scale propane fired. Extremely rare.This is a live steam locomotive made by Roll Neff. It is estimated that Roll Neff only made about a total of 50. Published on Nov 1, 2012

<videoflash>E7dC1WxvlLI</videoflash>
 

== Bibliography ==

* [[Cylinder cocks#Small Cylinder Cocks|Small Cylinder Cocks]]

== References ==

* "O Gauge Live Steamers: Roll Neff", Hazel Neff, [[Live Steam Magazine]], May 1975
* "Smaller Gauges: Roll Neff and Company", Nick Wantiez, [[Live Steam Magazine]], June 1987
* [http://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/topic/neff-live-steam "Neff Live Steam", O Gauge Railroading]
* [[Adjustable Drill Jig]]
* [http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/79919.aspx Roll Models 4-12-2]

A Loco Built From Scrap

2018-07-12T15:03:00Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Construction]]
[[Category:History]]
[[A Loco Built From Scrap]]

''3/4 inch Scale Switcher''

by C. J. Van Gorp

[[The Miniature Locomotive]], September-October 1953

[[File:VanGrop quarter inch sp 484 1953.jpg|thumb|right|300px|"O" gauger that upset the lock washer.]]

At this length it may seem like a chiseler's method of obtaining material to construct a locomotive. However in this region where steel is one of the main products, it is also one of the most difficult items to buy in small quantities. Priorities, due to the war didn't help matters either.

Fortunately, of all the places where discarded or scrap steel pieces were obtained, the purchase price was refused after learning that a little live steam locomotive was under construction.

Since the completion of the engine there seems to be no end to the offer of scrap pieces from these places. A great deal of learning is in store when you make it from scrap, but there is a greater gain when you make friends.

In the fall of 1949, after having completed a 1/4 inch scale 4-8-4 Southern Pacific engine from castings purchased from [[Martin Lewis]] the fruit of eight years' work was ripe. She could pull a load far beyond her own weight in adhesion, but there was a worm in the fruit. Being spirit fired gave a fire hazard for indoor operation, and curve radius offered a problem. Most of all the right of way from the lock washer on the third finger of the left hand was needed.

That same fall of 1949 a set of drawings were acquired from George Taylor of Pompton Lakes, N. J., regarding a 3/4 inch switcher called Little Lulu. Brother Taylor is tops when it comes to live steam. He made the first engine of this type (an 0-4-0 job) that can lick the radius worm, burn coal, smell and grunt like an engine should, and pull six to eight men. Man, that's an engine!

Having only a 6 inch Atlas lathe and a second hand drill press at the time, the scrap pile was raided, and the frames came from two pieces of cold rolled stock 1/4 by 2 by 20 inch. These came from a friend's rejected idea for a power mower. The axles were turned from pieces of drill rod that at one time were shafts of a high speed pump. Bearings were specified as the regular bronze block type. An improvement was made by inserting a set of needle bearings from parts of an old adding machine.

Cylinders and pistons were cut from blocks of mehanite iron having steam chests of 1 by 2 inch bar stock rough drilled and finished, filed to form the box. These at one time were used to form candy on a marble surface.

[[File:VanGorp 040 1953.jpg|thumb|right|500px|Even war time material shortages can't stop a locomotive builder. This little switcher came out of the scrap pile.]]

Rods and crossheads were solid, cut from bars that were used to space or shim dies at a local forging plant.

The smoke box was once a coupling for a 4-1/2 inch underground gas main. The threads being bored out to fit the boiler. A 1/16 inch cut on the O.D. made it fit the saddle and stack.

The front door is cut saucer shape from 3 inch bar stock, having clamps and bolts on the first step of the outside face. When closed in and against the ring it is held in place with a 1/8"-40 bar screwed into a 1/8 inch by 1/2 inch bar inside the smoke box. The clamps and bolts come along with the door as it is opened. Hinges are inlaid into the door by slotting the door with a 1/8 inch keyway cutter. The rivets are linoleum tacks or escutcheon pins. This item was to be a casting as to the drawings.

Feed water pump is front axle driven, having two eccentrics driving their little plungers into the pump body located between the frame and axles. Most of these parts were cut from bronze pieces from broken bearings or heavy bushings.

All nuts and bolts used in the construction of the chassis were, at one time, Allen wrenches. By annealing in a gas flame they can be machine very easily and rehardened by reheating and quenching in cold water.

The boiler was one started for a customer of [[T. Goodhand]] of England. This was the only item of price to complete the little engine. It was made without the opening fro the throttle, and it offered a challenge to put in a plug type throttle that would not leak. But a good boiler is hard to pass up and a lot of work could be saved. This item was inexpensive and the Pound Sterling had dropped to an all time low.

Boiler lagging is from furnace material, the cover over the pop valves and firebox was cut from the switch box of an old monitor top refrigerator.

The tender is all brass plate from the lower panels of kitchen doors that were once in a mansion. Water chamber houses a hand pump and screens for the axle pump lines. Capacity of tender is 2-1/2 gallons of water, 3 pounds of coal.

Our track is of elevated type, 150 feet in a pear shape oval. It is located in the back yard and is at the disposal of any live steamer having 3-1/2 inch gauge equipment.

Oh yes, the right of way was settled by eliminating the clothes lines. What a guy won't do for his wife (or an engine). We bought a clothes dryer.

17/32 Inch Scale

2018-07-12T15:02:42Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Standards]]

From [[LBSC]], [[The Modelmaker]], Volume 7, Number 4, April 1930:

: I had better explain that as I have had more to do with 2-1/2 inch gauge locomotives than all the rest of the sizes put together, I will talk chiefly about this favorite size; but want to point out that it is NOT "half-inch-scale" but much larger. A half-inch-scale locomotive should run on a track of 2-3/8 inch gauge only. A 2-1/2 inch gauge engine is roughly 17/32 inch or 13 mm to the foot, and stands nearly 5/8 inch higher than a 1/2 inch scale engine, and is of course longer and wider in proportion. Therefore, brother loco-men, don't waste valuable space by cramping a 2-1/2 inch gauge engine into 1/2 inch scale load gauge. Such a job viewed from the front makes you think of a bulldog standing with is legs straddled out.

== 1/2 vs 17/32 ==

by Bill Donovan of [[Real Trains Inc]]:

When the hobby of model railroading was first being developed it was more common to list a track gauge than a scale. The emphasis on scale came later with scales sometimes being "adjusted" to fit the available track gauges, other times a mismatch was simply accepted.

The National Model Railroad Association (NMRA) lists scales from Z to 1 inch but does not list a 1/2 inch scale.

There is an association in the UK called the [http://gauge3.org.uk/ Gauge '3' Society] that models in 1/2 inch = 1 foot scale. From their website they state:

: Gauge ‘3’ (or N° 3, as 2½ inch gauge was originally known) was one of five standard model gauges recommended by a subcommittee of the Society of Model Engineers on February 1st, 1899

They go on to explain that their association is not for trains to ride on and instead refer to the "National 2½ inch Gauge Association" which is also in the UK.

: Sometime around 1900 a set of track gauge standards was formulated. Thus tracks with a dimension of 2.500 inches between the inner rail edges was designated "GAUGE 3". At that time, this gauge was fairly popular for garden or scenic model railways, with the engines using clockwork or meths powered. Certainly none of them were capable of hauling the driver, let alone a driver and passengers! Such capabilities arose from the work of (arguably) one man, Lilian (Curly) Lawrence, who wrote under the pen name of [[LBSC]]. Initially, the scale used for standard gauge locomotives was half inch, but this was changed to 17/32 inch (about 13mm) very early on.

However, in the US, [[Martin Lewis]] seems to be the source that many live steamers think of when discussing 1/2 inch scale. He offered kits for both a 4-6-4 and 4-8-4. His locomotives were smaller versions of what we build today. They were oil burners, had super-heaters, water pumps, fully equalized leaf spring suspensions and operated at 100psi. His plans and instructions state that the scale is 1/2 inch = 1 foot. Checking his wheel dimensions they come out correctly at this scale. They are for 2-1/2 inch guage track.

17/32 inch scale may be an attempt to better match the previously available track products that were already on the market at 2-1/2 inch guage. This is similar to the case of 1.6 inch scale today. The problem with this or any scale that is not a simple fraction is that if you need a piece of metal to represent say a 3 inch steel bar on the prototype, in 17/32 inch scale it comes out 0.133 inch which is hard to buy. In 1/2 inch scale it is 0.125 inch which is 1/8 inch and simple to get. For the home builder this is an issue.

Since both scales use the same gauge the track standards are the same. With the track being the same the wheel dimensions would also be the same, except for the wheel width. If a minimum wheel width of 6 prototype inches is used the width would be 0.250 inch for 1/2 inch scale and 0.266 inch for 17/32 inch scale.

Brake Stand

2018-07-12T15:01:50Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Little Engines */

[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]

== External Links ==

* [http://www.nelsonslocomotive.com/Shay/Brakes/BrakeValve/BrakeValve.htm "Shay Steam Brake Valve"]

Goleta Valley Western Railroad

2018-07-12T15:00:36Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Gallery */

[[Category:Tracks]]

The [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]] was built by [[Seymour F. Johnson]] and friends at his home in Monticeto, California. It was Seymour's second railroad.

[[File:Goleta Valley Western RR Livesteam June 1988 pg10.jpg|thumb|center|500px|A map of the [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]] as published in [[Live Steam Magazine]], June 1988, page 10.]]

== References ==

* [http://www.preclass.com/TSL/WORDPRESS/Goleta.pdf "Goleta Valley Western RR", Linn H. Westcott, Model Railroader, Sept 1969]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDQQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DaPSy_7GHp6M&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&usg=AFQjCNFeQA_KpqGS_2ON086scQDqyf9-UQ&sig2=R2oZ22eUnDwHTdig4K1eEA&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc Goleta Valley & Western RR KCOY-TV News - YouTube]
* [http://www.lals.org/galleries/BLSMeet_1975/content/Page_27_large.html Goleta Valley Western Display at 1975 BLS Meet LALS]

Steam air compressor

2018-07-12T14:58:28Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* References */

[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]

See also [[Bill Van Brocklin#Steam Pump|Bill Van Brocklin steam pumps]].

== Shields/Van Brocklin ==

Bill Shields has spent many hours converting Bill Van Brocklin's duplex steam pump to CAD drawings. In addition, he has made several improvements and simplifications, as well as assembly instructions. The files are available for download.

* [http://www.mehrs.com/ Bill Shields drawings of Van Brocklin's Pumps]

== BSCSP ==

<gallery widths="400px" heights="400px" perrow="2">
File:Completed BSCSP Pump.jpg|A completed and operational BSCSP Pump, designed by Moodie Braun.
</gallery>

== References ==

* [http://www.nelsonslocomotive.com/Shay/AirCompPump/AirCompPumpI/AirCompPumpI.htm "Air Compressor/Water Pump" by Nelson Riedel]
* [http://whitetrout.net/Chuck/844/Tests/Lagging/Index.htm Duplex Steam Pump drawings, Pennsylvania Live Steamers]
* [http://empirelocomotives.net/pics/Duplex%20pump2.pdf "Double-Acting Twin-Cylinder Feed-Water Pump", J. I. Austen-Walton, The Model Engineer]
* "Simple-Duplex Pump", [[Robert Maynard|Bob Maynard]], [[Modeltec]], July 1984
* "Live Steam Newsletters" had drawings for a single cylinder with external steam chest
* Duplex Steam Pump, [[Moodie Braun]], [[Modeltec]] November 1984
* Corrections to [[Moodie Braun]] article, [[Modeltec]], September 1985
* Single cylinder Westinghouse pump in 1.5 inch scale by [[Zimmermann Gmbh]]

Turnouts

2018-07-12T14:57:51Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Switch Stands */

[[Category:Right of Way]]

[[File:PartsOfATurnout PCRNMRA 2008.png|thumb|right|600px|Parts of a Turnout, by Rich Kolm, Pacific Coast Region NMRA]]

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Railroad_switch From Wikipedia]:

A '''railroad switch''', '''turnout''' or ''[set of]'' '''points''' is a mechanical installation enabling railway trains to be guided from one track to another, such as at a railway junction or where a spur or siding branches off.

The switch consists of the pair of linked tapering rails, known as ''points'' (''switch rails'' or ''point blades''), lying between the diverging outer rails (the ''stock rails''). These points can be moved laterally into one of two positions to direct a train coming from the narrow end toward the straight path or the diverging path. A train moving from the narrow end toward the point blades (i.e. it will be directed to one of the two paths depending on the position of the points) is said to be executing a ''facing-point movement''.

Unless the switch is locked, a train coming from either of the converging directs will pass through the points onto the narrow end, regardless of the position of the points, as the vehicle's wheels will force the points to move. Passage through a switch in this direction is known as a ''trailing-point movement''.

A switch generally has a straight "through" track (such as the main-line) and a diverging route. The handedness of the installation is described by the side that the diverging track leaves. ''Right-hand switches'' have a diverging path to the right of the straight track, when coming from the narrow end, and a ''left-handed switch'' has the diverging track leaving to the opposite side.

A ''straight track'' is not always present; for example, both tracks may curve, one to the left and one to the right (such as for a wye switch), or both tracks may curve, with differing radii, while still in the same direction.

== Components ==

=== Frog ===

=== Points ===

=== Guard Rail ===

The purpose of the four wheel guards in a turnout is to maximize the amount of tread on the frog while assuring the flange does not touch the frog.

[[File:Gaurd Rail Gauge Ridge Live Steamers.jpg|thumb|center|500px|Guard Rail Gauge used at [[Ridge Live Steamers]]. Posted by Tim on Chaski.org]]

=== Springs ===

Ron Kunst wrote September 19, 2014:

: Eureka, by Jove I think we got it mates!!!! I think I have finally found the right springs, after about 7 or 8 try's. This is with a set of Century Springs #C-690. 2 1/4" free length, 7/16" OD, .056 Dia wire, .625 bottomed length and 7.75 lbs full load. The bench tests are done, now to install the switch and start the field testing. I also have another switch that is out by the garden to put these springs into and another left hand switch to put them on. Fun, Fun, Fun.....

 
<videoflash>ZtHqgmfqo2s</videoflash>
 

== Kick Switches ==

[http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/discoverlivesteamgroup/conversations/topics/976 Rick White wrote on Discover Live Steam Yahoo group]:

: One type of kick switch at Jack Haskins's [[Able Springs & North Texas Railroad]]. These work well by foot, and he has dozens. The car wheels will also move them over when you trail through a switch that is not set for your direction of movement.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:KickSwitch JackHaskins RickWhite 1.JPG|A kick switch on Jack Haskins Able Springs and North Texas Railroad. Photo by Rick White.
File:KickSwitch JackHaskins RickWhite 2.JPG|Switch mechanism, pointer moves with points and pin is on a lever that moves to the left as the switch points are moved.
File:KickSwitch JackHaskins RickWhite 3.JPG|Pointer moves with points and pin is on a lever that moves to the left as the switch points are moved.
File:KickSwitch JackHaskins RickWhite 4.JPG|The pointer is dead center and the lever with the pointer on it has rotated away from the bar holding the points in gauge.
File:KickSwitch JackHaskins RickWhite 5.JPG|Pointer to the right and the lever with the pin on it has moved back. Note wear mark on the left under the lever that holds the pin.
File:KickSwitch JackHaskins RickWhite 6.JPG|Pointer to the left and lever with pin attached is again at the rear.
</gallery>

George Erhart posted photos of the [[Colorado Live Steamers]] kick switches on [http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/discoverlivesteamgroup/conversations/topics/976 Discover Live Steam Yahoo group].

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:ColoradoLiveSteamers KickSwitch GeorgeErhart 1.jpg|Colorado Live Steamers kick switch. Photos by George Erhart.
File:ColoradoLiveSteamers KickSwitch GeorgeErhart 2.jpg
File:ColoradoLiveSteamers KickSwitch GeorgeErhart 3.jpg
File:ColoradoLiveSteamers KickSwitch GeorgeErhart 4.jpg
File:ColoradoLiveSteamers KickSwitch GeorgeErhart 5.jpg
File:ColoradoLiveSteamers KickSwitch GeorgeErhart 6.jpg
</gallery>

== Notched Continuous Rail ==

[[Bill Koster]] wrote:

: I did a couple of switches, using a notched continuous rail. This makes a very smooth running switch, since the joints are eliminated.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:BillKoster notched continous rail switch 20140907.JPG|Switches using a notched continuous rail. Photo by [[Bill Koster]].
File:BillKoster notched continous rail switch frog 20140907.JPG|Here is a close up of a switch frog that I made. While it may not be the prettiest one I have made, it worked well. You will notice how I notched the rail, carefully, with a Skill saw! Photo by [[Bill Koster]].
</gallery>

== Switch Stands ==

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:RRSupply Switch Stand Cast.JPG|[[Railroad Supply Corporation]]'s cast bronze switch stand in 1.5 inch scale.
</gallery>

== Expert Advice ==

[[Bill Koster]] wrote on Yahoo LiveDiesel:

: If you hold the gauge to 7 1/2 inch (or 7 1/4 inch) at the points, the points should not have to travel more than 3/8 inch. Make the points as easy as possible to move. Bill Hays suggests using the "Goldsby bump", putting a slight downward bend to the points so they just barely clear the ties, only touching at the ends of the points. I don't have a number or size of the spring I have used handy but it is about 5/8 inch diameter and a couple inches long. When I didn't have a spring handy I even used a bungee cord as a spring.

: You can use angle iron for the points, but the head of the rail is then quite narrow, unless if you use something like 1/4" x 1" x 1" angle iron. Channel iron makes prototype looking switch points. Yes, you can do it many other ways but stop and think, do we want our track to look like the full sized?

Bruce Mowbray wrote on Yahoo LiveDiesel:

: I would like to add that you don't need much pressure. Only the amount that will pull the points back against the rail. Too much pressure and unloaded cars will tend to climb up the back side of the point and derail. I did some trial and error experimentation with some air powered switches and found that more than 5 pounds of air in a 3/4 inch bore cylinder caused these type of derailments with light weight cars. It only took 2 or 3 pounds to pull the points in tight, depending on how clean the stainless steel point slide plates were. Dirty and wet took more pressure to move the points.

Jay wrote on Yahoo LiveDiesel, Sept 2014:

: I use the following springs from McMaster-Carr:

:* Item: 9657K158 (Steel Compression Spring 2.5" L,.438" OD, .048" Wire, Packs of 12, $9.52)

: I have used these springs with great success on all my switches.

== References ==

* "Turnout", [[Robert Maynard|Robert W. Maynard]], Live Steam, April 1972
* "Building a Switch Stand", Alfred W. Frese, Live Steam, May 1972
* "Turnout Design and Fabrication Part 1: Design and Layout" [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, September 1974
* "Turnout Design and Fabrication Part 2: Fabrication" [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, October 1974
* "Turnout Design and Fabrication Part 3: Frog Assembly Drawings" [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, November 1974
* "Turnout Design and Fabrication Part 4" [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, December 1974
* "Turnout Design and Fabrication Part 5: Switch Points" [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, January 1975
* "Turnout Design and Fabrication Part 6: Switch Points" [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, February 1975
* "Turnout Design Consideration: In Depth Look", [[Doug Alkire|I. Douglas Alkire]], Live Steam, April 1982
* "Permanent Way: 3-way Stub Switch", Tom Stamp, Live Steam, November/December 1996
* "How I Built a Bryant 7.5 inch Gauge Turnout", Douglas Wan Veelen, Live Steam, July/August 2005
* "Power-Actuated Kick Switch", Ron Trenhaile, Live Steam, January/February 2007
** See also Live Steam, July/August 2001
* "Park Gauge for the Beginner on a Limited Budget: Building Switch Stands", Malcolm Mackey, <iLLive Steam, January/February 1999
* "New Switch Stand", Scott Pointon, Live Steam, March/April 2000
* "Track Accessories: Switch Machine, Bench, Fuel Tank", Dan Foltz, Live Steam, September/October 2005
* "Special Switches Solve Layout Problems", Steve Booth, Live Steam, July/August 2006
* [http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/magazine/29/29.html "Turnout Construction", Carl Baskin, DiscoverLiveSteam.com]
* [http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/magazine/80.html "Switch Building at Maricopa Live Steamers", DiscoverLiveSteam.com]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=82496 "Backyard Railroad Standards", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=100249 "Switch frog info", Chaski.org]
* [http://calslivesteam.org/ThreeWaySwitch.html "Three Way Switch", Kap Pullen, [[Chesapeake & Allegheny Live Steamers]] ]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=100275 "More on Frogs", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.pcrnmra.org/pcr/clinics/Kolm-TurnoutsWhatYouNeedtoKnow-PCR2008-handout.pdf "Turnouts...What You Need to Know", Pacific Coast Region NMRA]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Railroad_switch "Railroad switch", Wikipedia]
* [http://www.trainmountain.org/Resources/tutorials/switch_stand_tutorial-r.pdf Train Mountain Switch Stand Installation]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=103412 "Railroad Supply Corp Switch Stand Castings", Chaski.org]

Lagging

2018-07-12T14:57:16Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Blued Stove Pipe */

[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]

Lagging is a covering placed over the boiler and serves three purposes:

* Reduce heat loss from the boiler
* Provide a cooler external surface to reduce the chance of burns to humans and equipment
* Provide an improved aesthetic look to the boiler and locomotive

== Definition ==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_locomotive#Boiler_lagging Boiler Lagging, from Wikipedia]

Large amounts of heat are wasted if a boiler is not insulated. Early locomotives used shaped wooden battens fitted lengthways along the boiler barrel and held in place by metal bands. Improved insulating methods included: applying a thick paste containing a porous mineral, such as kieselgur, or shaped blocks of insulating compound such as magnesia blocks[19] were attached. In the latter days of steam, "mattresses" of stitched asbestos cloth were fixed stuffed with asbestos fiber (but on separators so as not quite to touch the boiler); however in most countries, asbestos is nowadays banned for health reasons. The most common modern day material is glass wool, or wrappings of aluminum foil.

The lagging is protected by a close-fitted sheet-metal casing[20] known as boiler clothing or cleading.

* [http://www.eurekaencyclopedia.com/index.php/Category:Locomotive_Boiler From Eureka Encyclopedia]:
** To reduce heat loss boilers are insulated and then covered with a thin steel sheathing. At first, locomotive boilers were usually insulated with wood battens secured by hoops and varnished. Fireboxes were left bare at first but, from 1839 some were covered, either over the lower part or totally. A layer of felt was sometimes added under the wood but this got wet in the rain and, from 1847 there was a gradual introduction of sheet iron covering in place of wood. From about 1900 asbestos was used and this remained until its use was rendered illegal in most countries and various forms of wool waste or felt were again adopted.

From [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=77124&hilit=lagging Chaski.org]:

: Question: Whats the difference between a boiler jacket and boiler lagging?

: Answer: Lagging is the boiler's insulation. The jacket is the cover for the boiler and insulation. Think of a house or other building. Where insulation has been installed on it's frame and is then covered by wood, stucco, or brick.

== Insulation Necessary? ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging&sid=49e9eda8821087319b7ddeb4c0857a51&start=12#p235713 Richard Trounce writes]:

: There have been several studies done that show that cladding by itself is fairly effective in cutting down heat loss from a boiler (reported in Model Engineer at various times over the years). Insulation adds to that, but not as much as the cladding.

: When you think about it, the function of any insulation (at the temperatures in question) is to trap a layer of air and keep it from moving away from the boiler surface. The cladding by itself does that fairly effectively. Any insulation you might add should be light since its only function is to prevent air movement. A heavy, dense or tightly packed insulation would tend to transmit heat by conduction which defeats the purpose. A polished surface radiates less heat, that's why metal teapots or coffee pots are highly reflective (besides the fact that it looks nice), but painted surfaces are probably not as effective, because their colour will look quite different in the infrared heat range.

: After all, the 3 methods of heat transfer are: conduction, convection and radiation. Radiation varies as the fourth power of the Absolute temperature (Rankine or Kelvin) so at any temperatures much below a red heat, its contribution is negligible by comparison with the other two. Inside the firebox, it is the major contributor because of the radiant heat from the coal bed.

* [http://livesteam.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=123 GWRDriver writes]:
: Tests by live steamers have indicated (although inconclusively) that insulation is of negligible value as an economizer either in improved steaming or fuel savings on live steam locos although it does appear to make some difference in the external jacket temperature. Several materials, including a simple air space, have been used over the years, all with advantages and drawbacks. Fiberglass, wool felt, sheet cork, ceramic cloth, balsa wood and others have all been tried with approximately equal results. One factor that is often a consideration is moisture retention, the tendency of the material to trap and retain moisture between the jacket and boiler, particularly if either one of those is steel. My current choice of insulation material is called Fiberfrax, an inert ceramic cloth material capable of withstanding up to around 1900°F and available in several thicknesses.

[[File:CharliePurintons Seth 28May1989 at BoxfordMA.jpg|thumb|center|500px|Charlie Purinton did not use lagging on his 4-2-0 locomotive "Seth".]]

From [[The Live Steamer]], May-June 1951

: [[LBSC|L.B.S.C.]]

:: It is only necessary to fully lag a small locomotive in winter. In climates such as Great Britain, where it does not do go much below freezing point, a thin sheetmetal clading to hide the stayheads in the firebox wrapper, is ample. The barrel can go naked and unashamed provided it isn't ornamented with blobs of brazing material or other unsightly excrescences. The above is all my 30 year old 2-1/2 inch gauge locomotive "Ayesha" has; and when running in falling snow against a biting north wind, all she needed to keep the [[Safety valve|pops]] busy, was an extra shovelful of coal. Naturally, a lot depends on the design of the boiler. Certain designs I know of wouldn't steam in -- well, you can guess where!

: Karl Friedrich

:: In regards to the question of "lagging boilers", my position is that it resolves itself around the relative merits of a small lagged boiler versus a larger unlagged boiler. Thus a locomotive that requires a boiler 5 inch diameter that is lagged so that the result is a 5-1/2 inch or 6 inch diameter over the lagging, why not use the larger diameter for the boiler proper in the first place? To my mind, the resulting boiler will be easier to manage on account of its larger firebox, water capacity and steam space. To me this is more desireable than the last ounce in efficiency. I might also mention that most of [[LBSC|L.B.S.C.]] boilers are not lagged. For that matter neither are mine, and I now have four, of which only one is lagged. That was the first one I built some 25 years ago.

== Lagging ==

=== Wool ===

* [http://www.largescaleonline.com/faq/5.3.html Harry writes]:
** You don't see this done much but once many years ago someone suggested to me that wool felts would make a good insulator for model boilers. I tried it and it works great. It's relatively thin and a great insulator. You must be sure however that it's wool felt and not a synthetic, which is what you will find at most local cloth & sewing shops. Wool felts are available in many thicknesses and densities/weights. I use 1/8" for larger boilers and 1/16" for smaller ones. There is no problem with saturation. Since it "breathes" through the fibers, any water that might find its way to the fabric gets baked out during steaming.

=== Kaowool Cerablanket ===

* [http://www.anvilfire.com/sales/pages/kaowool_index.htm See AnvilFire.com]

* [http://www.ebay.com/gds/LIVE-STEAM-BOILER-INSULATION/10000000014844451/g.html A&K Locomotive posted the following on eBay]:
** In regards to live steam boiler Insulation for protection of steel boilers heat loss. We have found that Kaowool Blanket will result in optimum protection of heat loss for steel boilers. If you are using a insulating material such as the Calcium Block when it gets wet it is very hard to dry out in most cases and holds moisture against the outside boiler steel.

=== Fiberglass ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=84089&p=169813&hilit=lagging#p169813 Rich Carlstedt writes]:
** Fibre Glass Matting like used on Boats or Auto repair. Not the thin stuff, but 1/8"+ thickness.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=77129&p=101883&hilit=lagging#p101883 Robert Williams writes]:
** Check the [http://mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr online catalog]. They have several nice products for the insulation of pipes and tubing. It resembles in a very big way the products offered by the Steamfitter and may have the same origin. The nice thing is they will sell you a foot of the material or a entire roll.

* [http://www.largescaleonline.com/faq/5.3.html Bruce Mowbray writes]:
** In building my 1 1/2" scale locomotives, I use alternating layers of heavy duty aluminum foil from the supermarket and woven fiberglass cloth material from marine suppliers. Usually 5 layers of the cloth and 6 of foil. The foil helps to reflect the heat back into the boiler and the gass has insulating value. I make cardboard patterns and cut the materials to size. I use staples to make a seam along the edgeof the panels. The layers of foil help the sandwiches stay in place but I use thin wire to hold them in place until I get the outer wrapper on. This method does not tend to crumble when handled and is easy to remove and replace as needed.

* Dick Patton writes:
** I am using a [https://www.google.com/search?q=fiber+header+insulation+wrap&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb high temp heat resistant product] used by the hot rod group to insulate exhaust headers on their engines. It comes in rolls with the material being about 2 inches wide and 1/16th of an inch thick. The stuff is tough, woven fiberglass, not fluffy, and won't tear as you wrap it around pipes (or boiler shells), and has to be cut with scissors. The advantage is that you can keep wrapping and overlapping until the thickness wanted is achieved, with no templates needed. I have been using it to wrap the insulation on the steam lines on one of the NCNGRR Museum's steam locomotives.

=== Fiberfrax ===

* [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fiberfrax.php?clickkey=6977 Fiberfrax]
** A new material made from washed ceramic fibers with binders added to form a lightweight, flexible asbestos-free insulation. Withstands temperatures to 2300 F. Excellent for aircraft firewalls. Available in 24" wide. Sold by the foot.

* [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/fiberfraxadhesive.php?clickkey=6977 High Temp Coating]
** Used as a hi temp coating over Fiberfrax, or other pourus materials. Can also be used as an adhesive to bond Fiberfrax or other pourus material together.

* Jonathan Hollahan writes on live_steamer@yahoo.com:
** I used two layers of 1/8". The stuff is fairly fragile, tears easily, and doesn't like masking tape. I used stainless steel wire to hold it in place until the jacket was installed.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=72960&hilit=lagging#p74152 Bill Shields writes]:
** I have been using Fiberfrax for years, very happy with it.

=== Felt ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235460 Pat Fahey writes]:
** On my 3/4" scale boilers I was using felt fabric, the cheapest that I could find, for insulation. It was easy to work with, and cut to fit around the boiler. As for the boiler jacket, yes it was stovepipe that was primed and painted.

=== Wood ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=72960&hilit=lagging UnkaJesse writes]:
** I insulate all of my boilers whether it visibly helps or not. I realize that 1/8 " of insulation beneath my jacketing ain't much, but common sense says it does help a teeny tiny amount. On the "Newbie Project" locomotive as featured in Live Steam magazine, I used 5/16" thick American Black Walnut both for its insulation and appearance. One can touch the walnut lagging briefly and get nary a burn, but on the locomotive boilers with 1/8", the touch must be very brief so I know it is not helping as much as the thicker wood. Of course the rate of heat transfer to a person's skin is much faster with steel jacketing over insulation than is the case with wood.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px>
File:UnkaJesse VerticalBoilerWithWoodLaggingAndBrassBanding.jpg|Unka Jesse's "Newbie Project" locomotive as featured in Live Steam magazine uses 5/16" thick American Black Walnut both for its insulation and appearance.
File:LittleEngines Crab WoodLagging.jpg|A "Crab" locomotive with wood lagging.
</gallery>

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=71645&hilit=lagging&start=0 Robert Williams writes]:
** Teak wood is extremely resistant to decay and moisture since it contains a high amount of natural oil. This is why is so favored for use in sailing vessels and deck material on battleships. I am sure it would be an excellent choice for lagging your boiler. Wood was one of the first natural insulators used for boilers many years ago and still works well today. Honduran Mahogany would also be a good choice as it has the lowest shrinkage expansion ratio of any commercial hardwood known to man. It is also very easy to work and can be downright beautiful if finished properly.

* Gordon French wrote on lshobbyists@yahoogroups.com:
** No one has mentioned Balsa wood (think model air planes) but it does work, its readily available, cheap, and is easy to apply. Some old models were lagged with wood, some beautifully so. I would use less than 1/4 inch thickness just for the workability.

=== Cork ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235457 RichD writes]:
** On my Tenwheeler and Wren NG I will be using over the zinc phosphate primered and hi temp manifold painted boiler, a single layer of ceramic paper and then a layer of 1/8" cork. The cork will slightly char at 125 psi temps (actual test case), so the ceramic paper will protect it. Not much insulation value for sure, but I want support for the jacket. A layer of aluminum foil, shiny side in, against the boiler will help as well. For jacket material use pre prep (primered) steel sheet if you can find it.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging&sid=49e9eda8821087319b7ddeb4c0857a51&start=12#p235615 Paul writes]:
** I have used cork floor tiles which work well. A good few coats of paint on the boiler. Wrap some double sided tape around the boiler. Then cut the floor tiles into 1" wide strips. You can then stick the strips to the boiler and make up the thickness as required. I have found that additional tape around the outside is then good enough to hold it all together until you fit the lagging.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11374&hilit=lagging&start=0#p11448 John Greiner writes]:
** I used 1/8" cork sheet on my Allen Mogul. This works good because it is waterproof and does not yield, yet is flexible and easy to work with.

[[File:JohnGreiner AllenMogul.jpg|thumb|center|300px|John Greiner's Allen Mogul. From DiscoverLiveSteam.com, 2013.]]

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11374&hilit=lagging&start=0#p11583 Phil writes]:
** I have used both Ceramic fibre sheet (similar to Fibrefrax, but in 3mm sheet - 2 layers compressed down to 3mm) and 3mm cork sheeting. I'm sorry to say that the cork gave me a lower wrapper temp than the ceramic fibre, and I only had the odd spot of surface rust on the boiler barrel after 8 years. I don't know if I'll have more or less rust when I one day remove the ceramic fibre insulation.

=== Asbestos ===

Asbestos was commonly used on model steam locomotives constructed prior to the 1970's when the extreme danger of the material was discovered. DO NOT use asbestos on new builds. If you work on an older steam locomotive take the necessary steps required for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos_abatement asbestos abatement].

See [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=84095&p=169872&hilit=lagging#p169872 Asbestos lagging at Chaski.org].

* [http://www.ebay.com/gds/LIVE-STEAM-BOILER-INSULATION/10000000014844451/g.html A&K Locomotive posted the following on eBay]:
** In restoring any older boiler that contains asbestos you should abate that material as soon as possiable by a Licensed Professional. There was a local guy who did his own abatement with out permits, inspections or air testing himself a few months ago. He and his buddy got a couple years in Club Fed on the Tax payers dime. Just something you should consider in buying any older steam boiler in restoration costs down the road.

=== Air ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235418 crew writes]:
** I do have an air gap between the boiler shell and the jacket and it does not get so hot that burns you. Yes it is hot but i can touch it with out damaging my skin. 20 gauge steel works well, I did not paint the inside. and I don't have a rust problem after ten years. This could be because of the air gap.

=== Automotive Header Manifold Blanket ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235559 FriscoJim writes]:
** I've used [http://www.thermotec.com/products/14003-header-manifold-blanket.html header blankets] with good results

== Cladding ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=77124&hilit=lagging From Chaski.org]:
** Prototype loco (and stationary) boilers used banding to keep the jacket material in place. Look at a picture of an "old time" loco. The brass strips you see are the jacket bands. On "old time" loco's, the banding is more noticeable as it was polished brass, where on modern loco's the banding is painted black or the color of the jacket.

[[File:UP no.119 Jacket Banding.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Union Pacific No. 119 at Promontory, Utah, showing its brass jacket banding.]]

=== Steel ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235418 crew writes]:
** I am using 20 gauge steel on my American, the jacket is now 10 years old. I did not lag the boiler as I did not like the idea of it not allowing water to freely run off and dry form the heat of the boiler or air. I do have an air gap between the boiler shell and the jacket and it does not get so hot that burns you. Yes it is hot but i can touch it with out damaging my skin. 20 gauge steel works well, I did not paint the inside. and I don't have a rust problem after ten years. This could be because of the air gap.

* Wayne Davis used the steel sheet metal cladding from a discarded water heater on his [[A Scratch Built Freelance 0-4-0 in 2-1/2 Inch Scale|scratch built 0-4-0]]. It has been in operation well over 10 years with no problems with the cladding.

=== Galvanized Steel ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259525 GWRdriver writes]:
** Galvanized steel has a naturally "oily" surface and the old way of prepping galvanized material (like gutters) is to first to scrub it well with hot detergent and rinse. Then etch it with household vinegar, apply until it acquires a frosty patina. Kill the etch off with a soda water (or baking soda) and rinse well. I then use one coat of automotive self-etch primer, then paint of choice.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259550 RichD wrote]:
** I owned an engine with a galv duct metal jacket that would not retain it's paint after two attempts. Stripping and coating with zinc chromate (now zinc phosphate) primer then top color coat and now over ten years old is still like new.

=== Stainless Steel ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging&sid=49e9eda8821087319b7ddeb4c0857a51&start=12#p240239 Bill Shields writes]:
** Stainless steel shim stock makes good wrapping. Holds paint well and will not corrode. Replacing some now on a old loco because has a new boiler that old wrapper will not fit. Wrapper looks like new (40+ yrs old) on the inside. It also conducts heat a lot less than steel, so is a 'radiant wrapper' of sort.

=== Blued Stove Pipe ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259527 Lovesthedrive writes]:
** You might consider going to a stove shop. Some of them still sell blued pipe.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259537 Charles Pipes writes]:
** Another advantage to this is that you can ask for a heavier gauge piece of steel than the pipe would normally come in. I used a shop here in Huntsville to roll 18 gauge sheets for a small beer keg furnace. When they found out what I needed it for they even spot welded my seam at no extra charge. Another plus if you lay out your whole pattern on paper you can transfer prior to having them roll it.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=72973&p=73761&hilit=lagging#p73761 Dick Morris writes]:
** The boiler jacket on this very dirty CP-173 is blued stove pipe. After bending and fitting it there were some scratches and I knew it would be prone to rust. I then found some auto touch-up paint for an older GM vehicle which is a fairly close match.

[[File:DickMorris CP173 Lagging.png|thumb|center|300px|Dick Morris' CP-173 showing the boiler jacket and bands.]]

== Steam Pipe Lagging ==

* [http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=56261 Maurice writes]:
: I use strips of something called interfacing that I obtained from my wife's needlework box. I cut it into half inch wide strips, and wind it round the pipes. It moulds round the bends quite nicely if it is not too wide, and tends to cling to itself. When enough has been applied, I wind a length of thick cotton around it, with about a one eighth inch pitch (at 1/12 scale), and secure it. I then paint it with white artists' acrylic paint.

* [[Daris A Nevil]] writes:
: Try cotton tennis shoe strings. I found some long (24 inch) black shoe strings. Wrapped them tightly around the steam piping, then wound 20 gauge copper wire at each end to keep the shoe string from unraveling. Brushed on spar (marine) varnish to "glue" everything in place. Looks very nice.

== References ==

* [http://www.whitetrout.net/Chuck/844/Tests/Lagging/Index.htm "Boiler Lagging Tests", Chuck Hackett]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=97553 "Recommendations for Boiler Wraper Material", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11374 "Lagging material", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11460 "Boiler Jacket Paint", Chaski.org]

File:LittleEngines Crab WoodLagging.jpg

2018-07-12T14:57:00Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

A "Crab" locomotive with wood lagging. From http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/discoverforsale/forsale/1_iseminger_delete_3-5-2016/

Lagging

2018-07-12T14:56:45Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Wood */

[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]

Lagging is a covering placed over the boiler and serves three purposes:

* Reduce heat loss from the boiler
* Provide a cooler external surface to reduce the chance of burns to humans and equipment
* Provide an improved aesthetic look to the boiler and locomotive

== Definition ==

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_locomotive#Boiler_lagging Boiler Lagging, from Wikipedia]

Large amounts of heat are wasted if a boiler is not insulated. Early locomotives used shaped wooden battens fitted lengthways along the boiler barrel and held in place by metal bands. Improved insulating methods included: applying a thick paste containing a porous mineral, such as kieselgur, or shaped blocks of insulating compound such as magnesia blocks[19] were attached. In the latter days of steam, "mattresses" of stitched asbestos cloth were fixed stuffed with asbestos fiber (but on separators so as not quite to touch the boiler); however in most countries, asbestos is nowadays banned for health reasons. The most common modern day material is glass wool, or wrappings of aluminum foil.

The lagging is protected by a close-fitted sheet-metal casing[20] known as boiler clothing or cleading.

* [http://www.eurekaencyclopedia.com/index.php/Category:Locomotive_Boiler From Eureka Encyclopedia]:
** To reduce heat loss boilers are insulated and then covered with a thin steel sheathing. At first, locomotive boilers were usually insulated with wood battens secured by hoops and varnished. Fireboxes were left bare at first but, from 1839 some were covered, either over the lower part or totally. A layer of felt was sometimes added under the wood but this got wet in the rain and, from 1847 there was a gradual introduction of sheet iron covering in place of wood. From about 1900 asbestos was used and this remained until its use was rendered illegal in most countries and various forms of wool waste or felt were again adopted.

From [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=77124&hilit=lagging Chaski.org]:

: Question: Whats the difference between a boiler jacket and boiler lagging?

: Answer: Lagging is the boiler's insulation. The jacket is the cover for the boiler and insulation. Think of a house or other building. Where insulation has been installed on it's frame and is then covered by wood, stucco, or brick.

== Insulation Necessary? ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging&sid=49e9eda8821087319b7ddeb4c0857a51&start=12#p235713 Richard Trounce writes]:

: There have been several studies done that show that cladding by itself is fairly effective in cutting down heat loss from a boiler (reported in Model Engineer at various times over the years). Insulation adds to that, but not as much as the cladding.

: When you think about it, the function of any insulation (at the temperatures in question) is to trap a layer of air and keep it from moving away from the boiler surface. The cladding by itself does that fairly effectively. Any insulation you might add should be light since its only function is to prevent air movement. A heavy, dense or tightly packed insulation would tend to transmit heat by conduction which defeats the purpose. A polished surface radiates less heat, that's why metal teapots or coffee pots are highly reflective (besides the fact that it looks nice), but painted surfaces are probably not as effective, because their colour will look quite different in the infrared heat range.

: After all, the 3 methods of heat transfer are: conduction, convection and radiation. Radiation varies as the fourth power of the Absolute temperature (Rankine or Kelvin) so at any temperatures much below a red heat, its contribution is negligible by comparison with the other two. Inside the firebox, it is the major contributor because of the radiant heat from the coal bed.

* [http://livesteam.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=123 GWRDriver writes]:
: Tests by live steamers have indicated (although inconclusively) that insulation is of negligible value as an economizer either in improved steaming or fuel savings on live steam locos although it does appear to make some difference in the external jacket temperature. Several materials, including a simple air space, have been used over the years, all with advantages and drawbacks. Fiberglass, wool felt, sheet cork, ceramic cloth, balsa wood and others have all been tried with approximately equal results. One factor that is often a consideration is moisture retention, the tendency of the material to trap and retain moisture between the jacket and boiler, particularly if either one of those is steel. My current choice of insulation material is called Fiberfrax, an inert ceramic cloth material capable of withstanding up to around 1900°F and available in several thicknesses.

[[File:CharliePurintons Seth 28May1989 at BoxfordMA.jpg|thumb|center|500px|Charlie Purinton did not use lagging on his 4-2-0 locomotive "Seth".]]

From [[The Live Steamer]], May-June 1951

: [[LBSC|L.B.S.C.]]

:: It is only necessary to fully lag a small locomotive in winter. In climates such as Great Britain, where it does not do go much below freezing point, a thin sheetmetal clading to hide the stayheads in the firebox wrapper, is ample. The barrel can go naked and unashamed provided it isn't ornamented with blobs of brazing material or other unsightly excrescences. The above is all my 30 year old 2-1/2 inch gauge locomotive "Ayesha" has; and when running in falling snow against a biting north wind, all she needed to keep the [[Safety valve|pops]] busy, was an extra shovelful of coal. Naturally, a lot depends on the design of the boiler. Certain designs I know of wouldn't steam in -- well, you can guess where!

: Karl Friedrich

:: In regards to the question of "lagging boilers", my position is that it resolves itself around the relative merits of a small lagged boiler versus a larger unlagged boiler. Thus a locomotive that requires a boiler 5 inch diameter that is lagged so that the result is a 5-1/2 inch or 6 inch diameter over the lagging, why not use the larger diameter for the boiler proper in the first place? To my mind, the resulting boiler will be easier to manage on account of its larger firebox, water capacity and steam space. To me this is more desireable than the last ounce in efficiency. I might also mention that most of [[LBSC|L.B.S.C.]] boilers are not lagged. For that matter neither are mine, and I now have four, of which only one is lagged. That was the first one I built some 25 years ago.

== Lagging ==

=== Wool ===

* [http://www.largescaleonline.com/faq/5.3.html Harry writes]:
** You don't see this done much but once many years ago someone suggested to me that wool felts would make a good insulator for model boilers. I tried it and it works great. It's relatively thin and a great insulator. You must be sure however that it's wool felt and not a synthetic, which is what you will find at most local cloth & sewing shops. Wool felts are available in many thicknesses and densities/weights. I use 1/8" for larger boilers and 1/16" for smaller ones. There is no problem with saturation. Since it "breathes" through the fibers, any water that might find its way to the fabric gets baked out during steaming.

=== Kaowool Cerablanket ===

* [http://www.anvilfire.com/sales/pages/kaowool_index.htm See AnvilFire.com]

* [http://www.ebay.com/gds/LIVE-STEAM-BOILER-INSULATION/10000000014844451/g.html A&K Locomotive posted the following on eBay]:
** In regards to live steam boiler Insulation for protection of steel boilers heat loss. We have found that Kaowool Blanket will result in optimum protection of heat loss for steel boilers. If you are using a insulating material such as the Calcium Block when it gets wet it is very hard to dry out in most cases and holds moisture against the outside boiler steel.

=== Fiberglass ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=84089&p=169813&hilit=lagging#p169813 Rich Carlstedt writes]:
** Fibre Glass Matting like used on Boats or Auto repair. Not the thin stuff, but 1/8"+ thickness.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=77129&p=101883&hilit=lagging#p101883 Robert Williams writes]:
** Check the [http://mcmaster.com McMaster-Carr online catalog]. They have several nice products for the insulation of pipes and tubing. It resembles in a very big way the products offered by the Steamfitter and may have the same origin. The nice thing is they will sell you a foot of the material or a entire roll.

* [http://www.largescaleonline.com/faq/5.3.html Bruce Mowbray writes]:
** In building my 1 1/2" scale locomotives, I use alternating layers of heavy duty aluminum foil from the supermarket and woven fiberglass cloth material from marine suppliers. Usually 5 layers of the cloth and 6 of foil. The foil helps to reflect the heat back into the boiler and the gass has insulating value. I make cardboard patterns and cut the materials to size. I use staples to make a seam along the edgeof the panels. The layers of foil help the sandwiches stay in place but I use thin wire to hold them in place until I get the outer wrapper on. This method does not tend to crumble when handled and is easy to remove and replace as needed.

* Dick Patton writes:
** I am using a [https://www.google.com/search?q=fiber+header+insulation+wrap&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=sb high temp heat resistant product] used by the hot rod group to insulate exhaust headers on their engines. It comes in rolls with the material being about 2 inches wide and 1/16th of an inch thick. The stuff is tough, woven fiberglass, not fluffy, and won't tear as you wrap it around pipes (or boiler shells), and has to be cut with scissors. The advantage is that you can keep wrapping and overlapping until the thickness wanted is achieved, with no templates needed. I have been using it to wrap the insulation on the steam lines on one of the NCNGRR Museum's steam locomotives.

=== Fiberfrax ===

* [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fiberfrax.php?clickkey=6977 Fiberfrax]
** A new material made from washed ceramic fibers with binders added to form a lightweight, flexible asbestos-free insulation. Withstands temperatures to 2300 F. Excellent for aircraft firewalls. Available in 24" wide. Sold by the foot.

* [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/fiberfraxadhesive.php?clickkey=6977 High Temp Coating]
** Used as a hi temp coating over Fiberfrax, or other pourus materials. Can also be used as an adhesive to bond Fiberfrax or other pourus material together.

* Jonathan Hollahan writes on live_steamer@yahoo.com:
** I used two layers of 1/8". The stuff is fairly fragile, tears easily, and doesn't like masking tape. I used stainless steel wire to hold it in place until the jacket was installed.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=72960&hilit=lagging#p74152 Bill Shields writes]:
** I have been using Fiberfrax for years, very happy with it.

=== Felt ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235460 Pat Fahey writes]:
** On my 3/4" scale boilers I was using felt fabric, the cheapest that I could find, for insulation. It was easy to work with, and cut to fit around the boiler. As for the boiler jacket, yes it was stovepipe that was primed and painted.

=== Wood ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=72960&hilit=lagging UnkaJesse writes]:
** I insulate all of my boilers whether it visibly helps or not. I realize that 1/8 " of insulation beneath my jacketing ain't much, but common sense says it does help a teeny tiny amount. On the "Newbie Project" locomotive as featured in Live Steam magazine, I used 5/16" thick American Black Walnut both for its insulation and appearance. One can touch the walnut lagging briefly and get nary a burn, but on the locomotive boilers with 1/8", the touch must be very brief so I know it is not helping as much as the thicker wood. Of course the rate of heat transfer to a person's skin is much faster with steel jacketing over insulation than is the case with wood.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px>
File:UnkaJesse VerticalBoilerWithWoodLaggingAndBrassBanding.jpg|Unka Jesse's "Newbie Project" locomotive as featured in Live Steam magazine uses 5/16" thick American Black Walnut both for its insulation and appearance.
File:LittleEngines Crab WoodLagging.jpg|A "Crab" locomotive with wood lagging.
</gallery>

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=71645&hilit=lagging&start=0 Robert Williams writes]:
** Teak wood is extremely resistant to decay and moisture since it contains a high amount of natural oil. This is why is so favored for use in sailing vessels and deck material on battleships. I am sure it would be an excellent choice for lagging your boiler. Wood was one of the first natural insulators used for boilers many years ago and still works well today. Honduran Mahogany would also be a good choice as it has the lowest shrinkage expansion ratio of any commercial hardwood known to man. It is also very easy to work and can be downright beautiful if finished properly.

* Gordon French wrote on lshobbyists@yahoogroups.com:
** No one has mentioned Balsa wood (think model air planes) but it does work, its readily available, cheap, and is easy to apply. Some old models were lagged with wood, some beautifully so. I would use less than 1/4 inch thickness just for the workability.

=== Cork ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235457 RichD writes]:
** On my Tenwheeler and Wren NG I will be using over the zinc phosphate primered and hi temp manifold painted boiler, a single layer of ceramic paper and then a layer of 1/8" cork. The cork will slightly char at 125 psi temps (actual test case), so the ceramic paper will protect it. Not much insulation value for sure, but I want support for the jacket. A layer of aluminum foil, shiny side in, against the boiler will help as well. For jacket material use pre prep (primered) steel sheet if you can find it.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging&sid=49e9eda8821087319b7ddeb4c0857a51&start=12#p235615 Paul writes]:
** I have used cork floor tiles which work well. A good few coats of paint on the boiler. Wrap some double sided tape around the boiler. Then cut the floor tiles into 1" wide strips. You can then stick the strips to the boiler and make up the thickness as required. I have found that additional tape around the outside is then good enough to hold it all together until you fit the lagging.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11374&hilit=lagging&start=0#p11448 John Greiner writes]:
** I used 1/8" cork sheet on my Allen Mogul. This works good because it is waterproof and does not yield, yet is flexible and easy to work with.

[[File:JohnGreiner AllenMogul.jpg|thumb|center|300px|John Greiner's Allen Mogul. From DiscoverLiveSteam.com, 2013.]]

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11374&hilit=lagging&start=0#p11583 Phil writes]:
** I have used both Ceramic fibre sheet (similar to Fibrefrax, but in 3mm sheet - 2 layers compressed down to 3mm) and 3mm cork sheeting. I'm sorry to say that the cork gave me a lower wrapper temp than the ceramic fibre, and I only had the odd spot of surface rust on the boiler barrel after 8 years. I don't know if I'll have more or less rust when I one day remove the ceramic fibre insulation.

=== Asbestos ===

Asbestos was commonly used on model steam locomotives constructed prior to the 1970's when the extreme danger of the material was discovered. DO NOT use asbestos on new builds. If you work on an older steam locomotive take the necessary steps required for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestos_abatement asbestos abatement].

See [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=84095&p=169872&hilit=lagging#p169872 Asbestos lagging at Chaski.org].

* [http://www.ebay.com/gds/LIVE-STEAM-BOILER-INSULATION/10000000014844451/g.html A&K Locomotive posted the following on eBay]:
** In restoring any older boiler that contains asbestos you should abate that material as soon as possiable by a Licensed Professional. There was a local guy who did his own abatement with out permits, inspections or air testing himself a few months ago. He and his buddy got a couple years in Club Fed on the Tax payers dime. Just something you should consider in buying any older steam boiler in restoration costs down the road.

=== Air ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235418 crew writes]:
** I do have an air gap between the boiler shell and the jacket and it does not get so hot that burns you. Yes it is hot but i can touch it with out damaging my skin. 20 gauge steel works well, I did not paint the inside. and I don't have a rust problem after ten years. This could be because of the air gap.

=== Automotive Header Manifold Blanket ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235559 FriscoJim writes]:
** I've used [http://www.thermotec.com/products/14003-header-manifold-blanket.html header blankets] with good results

== Cladding ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=77124&hilit=lagging From Chaski.org]:
** Prototype loco (and stationary) boilers used banding to keep the jacket material in place. Look at a picture of an "old time" loco. The brass strips you see are the jacket bands. On "old time" loco's, the banding is more noticeable as it was polished brass, where on modern loco's the banding is painted black or the color of the jacket.

[[File:UP no.119 Jacket Banding.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Union Pacific No. 119 at Promontory, Utah, showing its brass jacket banding.]]

=== Steel ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging#p235418 crew writes]:
** I am using 20 gauge steel on my American, the jacket is now 10 years old. I did not lag the boiler as I did not like the idea of it not allowing water to freely run off and dry form the heat of the boiler or air. I do have an air gap between the boiler shell and the jacket and it does not get so hot that burns you. Yes it is hot but i can touch it with out damaging my skin. 20 gauge steel works well, I did not paint the inside. and I don't have a rust problem after ten years. This could be because of the air gap.

* Wayne Davis used the steel sheet metal cladding from a discarded water heater on his [[A Scratch Built Freelance 0-4-0 in 2-1/2 Inch Scale|scratch built 0-4-0]]. It has been in operation well over 10 years with no problems with the cladding.

=== Galvanized Steel ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259525 GWRdriver writes]:
** Galvanized steel has a naturally "oily" surface and the old way of prepping galvanized material (like gutters) is to first to scrub it well with hot detergent and rinse. Then etch it with household vinegar, apply until it acquires a frosty patina. Kill the etch off with a soda water (or baking soda) and rinse well. I then use one coat of automotive self-etch primer, then paint of choice.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259550 RichD wrote]:
** I owned an engine with a galv duct metal jacket that would not retain it's paint after two attempts. Stripping and coating with zinc chromate (now zinc phosphate) primer then top color coat and now over ten years old is still like new.

=== Stainless Steel ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=92171&hilit=lagging&sid=49e9eda8821087319b7ddeb4c0857a51&start=12#p240239 Bill Shields writes]:
** Stainless steel shim stock makes good wrapping. Holds paint well and will not corrode. Replacing some now on a old loco because has a new boiler that old wrapper will not fit. Wrapper looks like new (40+ yrs old) on the inside. It also conducts heat a lot less than steel, so is a 'radiant wrapper' of sort.

=== Blued Stove Pipe ===

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259527 Lovesthedrive writes]:
** You might consider going to a stove shop. Some of them still sell blued pipe.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=94401&p=259670&hilit=lagging#p259537 Charles Pipes writes]:
** Another advantage to this is that you can ask for a heavier gauge piece of steel than the pipe would normally come in. I used a shop here in Huntsville to roll 18 gauge sheets for a small beer keg furnace. When they found out what I needed it for they even spot welded my seam at no extra charge. Another plus if you lay out your whole pattern on paper you can transfer prior to having them roll it.

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=72973&p=73761&hilit=lagging#p73761 Dick Morris writes]:
** The boiler jacket on this very dirty CP-173 is blued stove pipe. After bending and fitting it there were some scratches and I knew it would be prone to rust. I then found some auto touch-up paint for an older GM vehicle which is a fairly close match.

[[File:DickMorris CP173 Lagging.png|thumb|center|300px|Dick Morris' CP-173 showing the boiler jacket and bands.]]

* [[Little_Engines#1969_Catalog|From "Remarks on C.P. Huntington and American Type Engine", Little Engines 1969 Catalog]]:

: The jacket bands are brass too, and over the dark jacket (which by-the-way is a piece of new stovepipe) they do by contrast to the dark jacket look very beautiful.

== Steam Pipe Lagging ==

* [http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=56261 Maurice writes]:
: I use strips of something called interfacing that I obtained from my wife's needlework box. I cut it into half inch wide strips, and wind it round the pipes. It moulds round the bends quite nicely if it is not too wide, and tends to cling to itself. When enough has been applied, I wind a length of thick cotton around it, with about a one eighth inch pitch (at 1/12 scale), and secure it. I then paint it with white artists' acrylic paint.

* [[Daris A Nevil]] writes:
: Try cotton tennis shoe strings. I found some long (24 inch) black shoe strings. Wrapped them tightly around the steam piping, then wound 20 gauge copper wire at each end to keep the shoe string from unraveling. Brushed on spar (marine) varnish to "glue" everything in place. Looks very nice.

== References ==

* [http://www.whitetrout.net/Chuck/844/Tests/Lagging/Index.htm "Boiler Lagging Tests", Chuck Hackett]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=97553 "Recommendations for Boiler Wraper Material", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11374 "Lagging material", Chaski.org]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=11460 "Boiler Jacket Paint", Chaski.org]

Valve Timing

2018-07-12T14:56:19Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Stephenson */

[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]
[[Category:Definitions]]

From Frank Williams, Locomotive Valve Setting, 1944:

: [[Setting valves|Valve setting]] is a term generally applied to the work of making the final accurate adjustments to the valves and the valve gear of a locomotive before it is placed in service. These adjustments are made in order that the positions of the valves shall at all times bear their proper relation to the positions of the pistons. Valve setting follows the erection or hanging of the valve gear by the machinist.

== Dead Center ==

See [[Dead center]]

== Valve Formulas ==

From Larry Koehl, [[Live Steam Magazine]], June 1976

: [[File:Valve Travel formula.gif]]

: [[File:Valve Cut Off formula.gif]]

The Throw of Eccentric formula, below, applies only to locomotives using Stephenson valve gear.

: [[File:StephensonEccentricThrow formula.gif]]

Larry suggests adding up to 0.002 inches to the Throw of Eccentric value for each pin in the valve gear (including the eccentric, too) because, even when new, there will be lost motion, possibly enough to eliminate the lead.

Larry also points out the fact that Cut-Off is always 75% when Lap equals Port Width, for all values of Port Width.

See also [[Valves]].

== Stephenson ==
[https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/LittleEnginesLiveSteamTrains/conversations/topics/1061 Ian wrote on Yahoo Group]:

: When the reversing lever (Johnson Bar) is in mid gear position there WILL be movement of the valve spindle however it will be at a minimum.

: With the covers off the valve/steam chest then with the lever/bar centred (mid gear) the valve should just open the ports and it should be symmetrical at top and bottom dead centre respectively.

: Better to set the eccentrics at full gear so that the valve only just cracks the ports at TDC/BDC and adjust the spindle length or slide position so it is symmetrical. just as you would a non reversing engine. This adjustment can be done without taking the cover off if the boiler has some low pressure air it and tubes connected to the drain cocks are led into a jar of water. Bubbles from the tube indicates the port is just opening.

See also:
* [[Allen Models of Michigan]] catalog contains a write-up on how to set valves for an Stephenson Valve Gear.
* "Setting Stephenson Eccentrics", Maurie White, [[Modeltec]], December 1996. Reprinted from Big Wheel News, July 1995, journal of the [[Steam Locomotive Society of Victoria]]
* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=104970&sid=58a1e04ce60e2502e33b4a509a51dfac "Stephenson valve setting", Chaski.org]

Finding top dead center and setting values for Stephenson gear on Allen Mogul:
 
<videoflash>Bkq-lMtcv4g</videoflash>

== Walschaert ==

See

* [[A Suggestion for Setting Out Walschaerts Gear]]

* [[WALSCHAERTS' VALVE GEAR FOR WORKING MODELS]]

* [[Setting Stephenson Valves]]

== External Links ==

* [http://5at.co.uk/index.php/definitions/terrms-and-definitions/valve-gear.html "Valve Gear and Valve Events"]
* [http://www.gutenberg.org/files/34701/34701-h/34701-h.htm "Steam Engines", Project Gutenburg]
* [http://www.greatwestern.org.uk/basic8.htm "Cylinder Design", The Great Western Archive]
* [http://www.ivorbittle.co.uk/Articles/The%20miniature%20steam%20plant%20fired%20by%20gas/Section%203.2%20The%20mechanics%20of%20the%20miniature%20steam%20engine%20with%20compressed%20graphics.htm "The Mechanics of the Miniature Steam Engine]
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Featured_picture_candidates/Steam_engine_indicator_diagram "Steam Engine Indicator Diagram"]
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=wiMxAQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=valve+setting+jack+britton&hl=en&sa=X&ei=oLbRUe-IG6rBigKbyYHgCA&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=valve%20setting%20jack%20britton&f=false A Few Useful Shop Hints On Locomotive Valve Setting]
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=1EZKAAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=editions:O7hBAcduzB8C&hl=en&sa=X&ei=fsbNUYCXI6rBigKbyYHgCA&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false One thousand pointers for machinists and engineers..., see page 90 for valve timing]
* [http://home.roadrunner.com/~trumpetb/loco/steampv.html "Steam Engine Pressure-Volume Diagram"]
* [http://www.livesteam.com/heavymikado/2-8-2_Heavy_Mikado_valve_timing_instructions.html "2-8-2 Heavy Mikado valve timing", livesteam.com]
* [http://palivesteamers.org/pubs/gazette/2011_1-2.pdf "Steam Cutoff - Part 1 - Fun with Efficiency", PLS Gazette]
* [http://palivesteamers.org/pubs/gazette/2011_3-4.pdf "Steam Cutoff - Part 2 - More Fun With Efficiency", PLS Gazette]
* [http://www.jghtech.com/html/dead-center-1.html "Finding Locomotive Dead Centers", Jeffrey G. Hook]
* [http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/magazine/07/07.html "Finding Locomotive "Dead Centers", DiscoverLiveSteam.com]
* [http://enginemanwook.wordpress.com/2010/04/10/steam-engine-steam-cutoff-explained/ "Steam Engine Steam Cutoff Explained"]
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=TKV-AAAAMAAJ&dq=Yoder%20Wharen%20%22Locomotive%20Valves%20and%20Valve%20Gears%22%20ragonnet&pg=PR12#v=onepage&q=Yoder%20Wharen%20%22Locomotive%20Valves%20and%20Valve%20Gears%22%20ragonnet&f=false Locomotive Valves and Valve Gears, with a Special Treatise on Valve Setting]
* [http://www.discoverlivesteam.com/magazine/179/index.htm "The Company Notch", DiscoverLiveSteam.com]
* [http://www.lals.org/galleries/BLSMeet_1975/content/Page_79_large.html Electronic pressure/stroke display, LALS]
* [http://www.donashton.co.uk/html/downloads.html "Don Ashton's Steam Locomotive Valve Gear"]
* [http://www.greenloco.com/pdf/SVALVE.pdf "The Simple Slide Valve"]
* [http://www.steamingpriest.com/links/projects/timing-stevenson-valve-gear/ "Timing Stephenson Valve Gear", Live Steam by Father Finelli]
* [http://www.stationroadsteam.co.uk/indicator/index.htm "Digital Dynamometer/Indicator (DDI)", [[Station Road Steam]]]

Gordon Corwin

2018-07-12T14:56:00Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

== Gallery ==

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:GordonCorwin 4-8-4 hoist.jpg|Gordon Corwin loading his 3/4 inch scale 4-8-4 onto the track of his home layout, circa 1957 in Southern California. Photo provided by Stephen Quandt.
File:GordonCorwinJr 4-8-4.jpg|Gordon Corwin's son, Gordon Jr, on their 3/4 inch scale 4-8-4, circa 1957. Photo provided by Stephen Quandt.
File:GordonCorwin 4-8-4.jpg|Gordon Corwin's 3/4 inch scale 4-8-4. Circa 1957. Photo provided by Stephen Quandt.
File:GordonCorwin 4-8-4 hoisted.jpg|Gordon Corwin's 3/4 inch scale 4-8-4 on the engine lift at his home in Southern California. Photo provided by Stephen Quandt.
File:GordonCorwin 4-8-4 hoisted2.jpg
File:GordonCorwin threequarter inch mountain 1949.PNG|3/4 inch scale 4-8-4 built by Gordon Corwin of Highland, California. Overall weight with tender is 315 pounds, with two cylinder steam feedwater pump. Walsheart Valve Gear and steam operated cylinder cocks. From [[Railroad Model Craftsman]], Ocotber 1949.
File:GordonCorwin Shay Chassis Test.jpg|Gordon Corwin's famed Fruit Growers Supply Co. # 7 SHAY... It was the CHASSIS only, operating on compressed air at the old track of GGLS in Oakland's Redwood Regional Park. The guy at left in coveralls is Gordon Corwin. To the right, is the late GGLS member [[Louis Lawrence]]. Photo circa 1951. Photo by Harry Dixon, submitted by Ken Shattock.
File:GordonCorwin TestingShayAtGGLS 1956.jpg|[[Gordon Corwin]] of [[Southern California Live Steamers]] at the [[Golden Gate Live Steamers]] Spring Meet, 1956, feeding steam from his locomotive to the engine of his Shay with the able assistance of [[Louis Lawrence]]. Photo by [[Harry Dixon]]. From [[The North American Live Steamer]], Vol 1 No 5, 1956.
File:GordonCorwin ShayChassisTest about1952.jpg|If you want to run Gordon's chassis, you double-head it with an operable engine and run a steam line to the cylinders.
File:GordonCorwin ShayNo7.jpg|Gordon Corwin and his Fruit Grower's Supply Co. Shay #7. From the Harry Dixon collection.
File:GordonCorwin GGLS Redwood 1964.jpg|Gordon Corwin at GGLS, Redwood Regional Park, Oakland,CA.--June, 1964.
File:GordonCorwin GGLSRedwood.jpg|Gordon Corwin-- GGLS- Redwood Park.
File:GordonCorwin 4.jpg|Gordon Corwin--GGLS--Redwood Park.
File:GordonCorwin 5.jpg|Gordon Corwin--GGLS--Redwood Park.
File:GordonCorwin 6.jpg|Gordon Corwin--GGLS--Redwood Park--1953.
File:HarryDixon on GordonCorwin ShayNo7.jpg|The late Harry Dixon with Gordon Corwin on Gordon's famous Shay still under construction.
File:GordonCorwin 8.jpg|Here's another one of Gordon Corwin at GGLS--Redwood Park.
File:GGLS LaborDayMeet1953 02.jpg|Gordon Corwin's Anny, a copy of Carl Purinton's Granny loco. Gordon is seen in background aboard his 3/4 inch 4-8-4. GGLS Labor Day Meet 1953. Photo by L.M. McKenney.
File:LiveSteamShay Apr1958 UnknownRidersAndLocation ebay.jpg|Gordon Corwin's Shay running at [[Los Angeles Live Steamers|LALS]] track, about April 1958. This is a view as from the south side looking north past the No. 30 T&T RR coach to the Oahu RR. train heading east. [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=98952|See Chaski.org]
File:MarkPiper GordonCorwin LALS 19570505.jpg|[[Mark Piper]] and his 1-1/2 inch scale Early American coming alongside [[Gordon Corwin]] at the throttle of his narrow gauge 1-1/2 inch scale Shay Engine at the [[Los Angeles Live Steamers]] Golden Spike ceremony, May 5, 1957.
File:GordonCorwin LittleEngines Catalog1962 0065.jpg|[[Gordon Corwin|Gordon W. Corwin]] and his 3/4 inch scale 4-8-4 with passengers.
</gallery>

== Dedicated Live Steamer ==

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=90514 Gordon Corwin, Jr wrote]:

: My father was [[Gordon Corwin]] (Sr.) and I grew up in Highland, California where he had his home machine shop and built two 3/4 inch scale and one 1-1/2 inch scale live steam locomotives over many many years. As a young boy, I recall that he began this hobby actively in around 1946 and remained unshakably dedicated to building and running the engines and to sharing his enthusiasm and joy of live steam locomotives until he passed away in 1968. He was passionate about mastering the detail and perfection of all that he built, and spent countless hours over about a 20 years working happily, as time allowed, in his machine shop located at back of the house. The intricate engineering and machining skills involved along with steam locomotives themselves were truly 'in his blood'.

: "ANNY" was the last of the 3 locomotives that he built. I remember with great affection my father building this cute little switching engine, which won constant praise from many who admired her, including the immediate family and fellow hobbyists alike.

: Gordon Corwin, Oceanside CA.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:GordonCorwin Anny MikeMassee 1.jpg|Photos by Mike Massee
File:GordonCorwin Anny MikeMassee 2.jpg
File:GordonCorwin Anny MikeMassee 3.jpg
</gallery>

== Sunkist Lines ==

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 8

''Sunkist Lines Annual Invitational Run''

For the past six or eight years [[Sunkist Lines]] (which is the name of my layout) has invited the [[Southern California Live Steamers]] to my place for an annual run. Since I am located 75 miles from Los Angeles area, only about 10 or 12 locomotives show up for the affair. However, about 150 people usually come.

The track consists of about 750 feet of 3-1/2 inch and 4-3/4 inch gauge laid ground level. The main line is a 400 foot loop with many curves running around the house and through my orange grove (hence the name - [[Sunkist Lines]]). There is a passing track of about 80 feet and a wye makes up the balance. There are two grades of 1% and 1-3/4%. Six stub switches are in the system.

The natural grade of the ground was about 4%, which made it necessary to put in a 5 foot high fill at one end of the loop.

: Gordon W. Corwin
: 6988 Church Street
: Highland, California

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:JoeNelson DickJackson SunkistLines 1956.jpg|Joe Nelson with his 1 inch 4-4-2. [[Dick Jackson]], Dean of [[Southern California Live Steamers|S.C.L.S.]] on the rear.
File:JoeNelson LeRoySmith SunkistLines 1956.jpg|Joe Nelson with a 1 inch 4-6-2 leading. Trailing behind is LeRoy Smith with a 1 inch scale 4-4-2.
File:JoeNelson SunkistLines 1956.jpg|Joe Nelson and his 1 inch 4-6-2.
File:GordonCorwin ShayTest SunkistLines 1956.jpg|Gordon Corwin with [[Mark Piper]] on the front end and [[Gordon Sherwood]] on the rear. Corwin's 1-1/2 inch narrow gauge (4-3/4 inch gauge) Shay running on a portable compressed air tank.
</gallery>

== Shay Progress 1956 ==

Brotherhood of Live Steamers

News from the Pacific Region

[[Harry Dixon]], Hayward, California

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 4

[[Gordon Corwin]] of the [[Southern California Live Steamers]] club sent good
news that he now has his 1-1/2 inch narrow gauge Shay operating on air.

The entire chassis with drive wheels and engine are considered 95% complete.

After a 10-hour break in test with light oil and graphite, the throttle was
cracked open another notch, which brought the speed indicator up to 1725 RPM.

With a gearing ration of 2 to 1 it would take 317 RPM to make 1 mile per hour
or 1268 RPM to make 4 miles per hour, which is considerable over track speed
of a prototype. However, it is felt that a miniature engine of this type
would have to do 4 to 5 miles per hour to be impressive.

Next on his agenda is the boiler, and then we hope to give you a later report
on the progress of this very fine engineering accomplishment.

== Hex Heads ==
[[Category:Steam Locomotive Parts]]
'''It's Easy to File Hexes'''

[[The North American Live Steamer]], Volume 1 Number 6

Many times it is necessary to file hexes on motion pins, bolts, etc. This was
always a disagreeable job for me until I developed the method here described,
and which took most of the pain out of it. This may not be a new idea, but it
is certainly fast and quite accurate.

First, make a '''safe file''' from a 6 or 8 inch flat mill file, by grinding
the edge teeth off smooth. This smooth edge will protect the flange of the
pin, if the pin is to have a flange at the base of the hex head.

We will take a 5-40 motion pin with flange for our example. Turn the "hex
head to be" in the lathe to a full 3/16 inch and the required length, say 1/8
inch. Thurn the flange, say 1/32 inch thick and 1/4 inch in diameter. Of
course the shank will be 1/8 inch in diameter since it is a 5-40 and whatever
the desired length.

With the work still in the three jaw chuck, move jaw Number 1 vertical. With
the safe file smooth edge next to the flange, file about five or six strokes,
with even pressure. Be sure to keep the file square with the work in both
directions. Then move Number 2 jaw straight down, filing the next face,
counting the strokes. Then move Number 3 jaw straight up and file face Number
3--and so on around the head. In other words, we are using the three, 120
degree chuck jaws as a dividing head and moving only 60 degrees, six times to
get the hex.

At the end of the operation a little truing up, probably, will be necessary.
As a guide th ehead can be filed to fit the size socket wrench which will be
used on it.

It is not a bad idea to practice on a round lead pencil or a small round piece
of wood.

This method certainly paid off in building my Shay engine as there were 27 hex
heade dmotion pins with flanges to be made.

: Gordon W. Corwin
: 6986 Church Street
: Highland, California

== Carl Herrera Restoration ==

From [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=96567#p282300 Chaski.org]

Postwarbob posted:

: Carl Herrera now owns this engine . He has totally restored it to its original beauty. He spent many hours repiping and repairing worn out parts . The purple paint is still the original paint but most of the black paint is new.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:GordonCorwin Shay CarlHerrera 1.jpg|Gordon Corwin's Shay as restored by new owner Carl Herrera, from Chaski.org
File:GordonCorwin Shay CarlHerrera 2.jpg
File:GordonCorwin Shay CarlHerrera 3.jpg
</gallery>

David Rohrer posted:

: The Shay really looks great, I remember it from when [[Francis Moseley]] owned it, was pleased to see you even have the cable wrapped around the sand dome.

== Gordon Corwin Meets ==

From [[The Miniature Locomotive]], July/August 1953

By C. S. Chovil, Secretary, [[Southern California Live Steamers]]

The [[Gordon Corwin]] annual picnic and engine meet proved very popular with [[Southern California Live Steamers|S.C.L.S.]]. the attendance was more than in the past years, the day was perfect and the tracks of the SUNKIST LINES in good condition. Many members brought their lunches as invited, came early and stayed until the last boiler was blown down. The roster of locomotives was as follows: Jim Keith's 1 inch scale Hudson; Barny Shrive's 3/4 inch scale N.Y.C. Niagara; [[Irene Lewis]]'s 1 inch scale six-wheel switcher operated by [[Bob Harpur]]; Milton Uhler's 3/4 inch Tom Thumb; John Matthew's 3/4 inch English Shunting engine "Pug"; Burt Petersen's 3/4 inch Northern; Bill wightman's 3/4 inch 2-4-4 tank engine; Andy Wightman's 3/4 inch Mogul and J.D. Hillyard's 3/4 inch Atlantic.

== External Links ==

* [http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=90031&p=212263&hilit=Corwin+Anny#p212263 "Gordon Corwin's Anny", Chaski.org]

Auburn Valley Railroad

2018-07-12T14:55:23Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:Tracks]]

AUBURN VALLEY RAILROAD, YORKLYN, DELEWARE, the last steam railroad in the State, is a miniature railroad built by T. Clarence Marshall.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px" perrow="2">
File:AuburnValleyRRPostcard.JPG|4-8-4-type Locomotives Nos. 401 and 402, each pulling a four-car passemger train, are exact replicas of a full-scale Union Pacific engine. When full of water and coal, each weighs one ton. Perfect in other details, the Line has three Stations, four switches, a turntable, and a trestle. Up to 30 persons can be carried on an eight-car train.
File:AuburnValley 484 1960s.jpg|Auburn Valley Railroad, Yorklyn, Delaware, the last steam railroad in the State, was built in 1960 by T. Clarence Marshall. Constructed to the scale of 1-1/2" to the foot, it is an accurate miniature in every detail. It boasts four steam locomotives, eight passenger cars, and about 2000 feet of track. There are three stations, a water tower, four switches, a turntable, and a trestle. Here, Engine no. 401 stops for water with a 7-car train. The railroad is operated on designated days by Historic Red Clay Valley, Inc.
File:AuburnValley double header 1971.jpg|Miniature steam locomotives #401 & #402 double head across Broad Run Trestle . . . one of the features of the tiny Auburn Valley Railroad. These engines, built one-eighth actual size, are coal burners running on a track gauge of seven and one-half inches. Each pulls trains of people around the grounds on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from mid-April to mid-November.
File:AuburnValleyRR Northern401.jpg|[[Auburn Valley Railroad]] Northern #401 built from castings.
File:AuburnValleyRR Northern402.jpg|[[Auburn Valley Railroad]] Northern #402
File:T Clarence Marshall operating Auburn Valley 401 Circa 1959.jpg|T Clarence Marshall operating Auburn Valley 401 Circa late 1959. Photo by Mike Venezia.
</gallery>

== External Links ==

* [http://auburnheights.org/ Marshall Steam Museum at Auburn Heights Preserve]
* [http://test.auburnheights.org/collections/trains/1905-cagney-model-d-locomotive/ 1905 Cagney Model D Locomotive]

<img src="http://free.pagepeeker.com/v2/thumbs.php?size=x&url=auburnheights.org" />

Seymour F. Johnson

2018-07-12T14:54:35Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Gallery */

[[Category:People]]

Seymour F. Johnson was the grandson of Warren S. Johnson, founder and chairman of [http://www.johnsoncontrols.com Johnson Controls].

For many years the late Dr. Seymour Johnson owned and operated a huge Live Steam miniature railroad in the Montecito hills of California. His club was the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers]] (GVLS). He operated both 1 1/2" scale, 7 1/2" gauge rolling stock and locomotives as well as much larger 3" scale, 15" gauge rolling stock and locomotives.

== Tom Remembers ==

Tom Parris wrote in the Summer 2005 edition of the [http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/dam/WWW/jci/corporate/retirees/newsletter_v12n2.pdf Warren S. Johnson Society of Retirees, Inc.] newsletter:

: Do any of you model railroaders remember [[Seymour F. Johnson]]’s railroad? It was called the Montecito & Pacific Railroad. As I remember it, Seymour Johnson was the grandson of Warren S. Johnson. He was the first person that I remember that had a Greyhound bus converted into a motor home. He would park it in the company parking lot when he attended Board of Directors Meetings. One year, he had scale model stainless steel spikes made by our Model Shop for his railroad. Yes, he reimbursed the company for them. The railroad had a 15 inch track, steam locomotive and coaches with a half-mile loop track near his estate above Santa Barbara, California. The locomotive was a model of a New York Central J3 Hudson. Other model railroaders stored and ran their steam locomotives at his facility. Eventually, a collector purchased the locomotive and coaches from his estate. He also wrote technical articles for [[Live Steam Magazine|Live Steam]] and [[Modeltec]] magazines.

== Linn H. Westcott Pays a Visit ==

Linn H. Westcott, then editor of Model Railroader magazine, paid a visit to Dr. Seymour Johnson at this [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]] in 1969. Westcott wrote an extensive article on the operation which was published in the September 1969 edition of Model Railroader.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SeymourJohnson GVWRR MR 196909.jpg|Seymour Johnson Backs his 7.5" gauge 4-8-4 up the ramp leading from the steaming tracks to the main lines. Retaining wall supports main station tracks. From Model Railroader, Sept 1969.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s.jpg|Linn H. Westcott watches Seymour Johnson work on his live-steam 4-8-4, Goleta Valley Western R.R., Montecito, California.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s 2.JPG|Seymour Johnson and Linn H. Westcott servicing Johnson's 4-8-4.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s 3.JPG|Linn H. Westcott driving Seymour Johnson's 4-8-4, Goleta Valley Western R.R., Montecito, California.
</gallery>

=== What Happened to the GVWRR? ===

The club and layout were built on Dr. Seymour Johnson's private estate. Seymour was born on May 7, 1901. Unfortunately, he died on April 4, 1992 at the grand old age of 90 years. The club continued to meet at his track until shortly after his death. Eventually, all track was removed. Most of the 15" gauge went to the San Diego area and is at Glen Bell's "Bell Gardens" Farm. Some of the 7.5" live steamers negotiated land in Ventura and built a new livesteamer facility. However, this club property was eventually vacated and the railroad that was built on it no longer exists.

From [http://www.edhat.com/site/tidbit.cfm?nid=45687&showcomments=T edhat.com]:

: The railroad at Seymore's ranch was run by the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers|Goleta Valley Railroad Club]]. After he died, and the property was up for sale, the club removed everything. The club is still alive with a few members. All the equipment was taken to another club, [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]], at Halcyon near Arroyo Grande, in San Luis Obispo County.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=94679 LivingLegend wrote on Chaski.org]:

: If you have Google Earth software for satellite imagery installed on your computer (not Google Maps)....

: Seymour's estate was located in the area of the 5000 block of Vista Linda Lane in Montecito (Santa Barbara), CA. The following coordinates will put you right in the center of Seymour's home at the top the hill just above the railroad.

: * 34-degrees 26-minutes 31.15-seconds North
: * 119-degrees 34-minutes 09.46-seconds West

: The home was to the east side of the track. The most resent satellite image on Google Earth is from 2009, but you can access images going back to 1994 when the railroad right-of-way could still be seen. The 9/29/2007 image shows construction to replace Seymour's home as well as other new home(s) construction where Seymour's property was sub-divided. You can overlay street maps over the satellite image.

Harrison Hitchcock posted on Facebook:

: 4751 resides now at the [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]] but is still owned by the members of the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers|Goleta Valley Club]].

== National Geographic Special ==

National Geographic produces a video special entitled "Love Those Train". [[Seymour F. Johnson|Seymour Johnson]] is interviewed starting at the 10 minute mark.
[[File:SeymourJohnson GoletaWesternRR IBLS 50Anniv 1982.PNG|thumb|center|400px|Seymour Johnson operating his oil-fired Northern on the Goleta Valley and Western RR with an IBLS 50th Anniversary Banner in the background. From the National Geographic special "Love Those Trains".]]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhD-V2tXlYg&t=10m01s "Love Those Trains", Seymour Johnson interview, National Geographic]

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=94679 LivingLegend wrote on Chaski.org]:

: For those who may not be familiar with it's history....

: [[Seymour F. Johnson|Seymour Johnson's]] original railroad was at his home in Goleta, CA, Goleta is to the west of Santa Barbara. This railroad was called [[Goleta Valley Railroad|Goleta Valley]]. It was this railroad where the photos of Seymour's 4-8-4 were taken that were featured in the 1.5" Northern section of the [[Martin Lewis]] catalogs of the 1950's, 60's, 70's

: During the early 1960's, Seymour started building a new home and railroad in Monticito, which is slightly east of Santa Barbara. The railroad was renamed from [[Goleta Valley Railroad|Goleta Valley]], to [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad|Goleta Valley Western]].

: It was the Monticito property which was built up the mountain and overlooked the ocean.

== 3 inch Hudson ==

Mr. Pearson sold a complete set of drawings for Seymour Johnson's 3 inch scale Hudson on [http://discoverlivesteam.com/discoverforsale/forsale/5_Pearson2/index.htm DiscoverLiveSteam.com].

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SeymourHudson3inch LiveSteamCoverJune1991.jpg|Seymour Johnson 3 inch scale Hudson on the cover of [[Live Steam Magazine]], June 1991.
File:SeymourHudson3inch drawing legend.jpg
File:SeymourHudson3inch drawing index.jpg
</gallery>

== LP ==
[[File:FarewellToSteam LP 1955.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]

Seymour produced an LP (vinyl) record of steam locomotive sounds under the name Seymour F. Johnson Enterpises. From [http://www.popsike.com/Santa-Barbara-Farewell-To-Steam-Locomotive-Train-LP/390281929125.html popsike.com]:

: Farewell To Steam! - Seymour F. Johnson Enterprises, Santa Barbara, CA. GB-4043 (1955)(Mono)(US) ...This auction is for an original, first edition Record pressing on U.S. vinyl. This recording tells the story of that bright winter day (February 6, 1955) when the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway ran the last train on the Los Angeles Division to be pulled by steam. Also included will be a second pressing of this release as well.

:* Tracks listed: (Engine 4-8-4 number 3759)
:* (Side One)(A)Los Angeles to San Bernardino, California (B)Pasadena to San Bernardino, California
:* (Side Two)(A)San Bernardino to Barstow, California (B)Sounds of Southern Pacific Trains at Santa Barbara, California

== Gallery ==

<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
File:SeymourFJohnsonSteamer1965.jpg|[[Seymour F. Johnson]] rides astride diesel switch engine as he pushes steam locomotive and train over new section of 1.5 inch scale track to check its accuracy. From Popular Mechanics, August 1965.
</gallery>

== See Also ==

* [[Iron Colts in the Back Yard]]
* [[Mini-Rail Corporation]]
* [[Goleta Valley Railroad]]
* [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]]

== Bibliography ==

* "What is Mini-Rail?", [[Live Steam Magazine]], Seymour Johnson, December 1987

== References ==

* [http://www.preclass.com/TSL/WORDPRESS/Goleta.pdf "Goleta Valley Western RR", Linn H. Westcott, Model Railroader, Sept 1969]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CEIQtwIwAw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DkGYq-tcZBsg&ei=tTiyUZSdGaGFyQHF_IAI&usg=AFQjCNFLYYxw1HtRs2sxDcxVTzj3d9jVMw&sig2=vg-p1Vk_pCjjqePebvpd8g&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc 1996 IBLS Ramble - Goleta Valley Railroad Club (Part 7) - YouTube]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CD8QtwIwAg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMnUXTD6Riu4&ei=tTiyUZSdGaGFyQHF_IAI&usg=AFQjCNEWC3-PMhgYFuCVV-hGGLYU_o8EFA&sig2=DqoIUmWfTzvbUx16bsfx8A&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc 1996 IBLS Ramble - Golet Valley Railroad Club (Part8) - YouTube]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDQQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DaPSy_7GHp6M&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&usg=AFQjCNFeQA_KpqGS_2ON086scQDqyf9-UQ&sig2=R2oZ22eUnDwHTdig4K1eEA&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc Goleta Valley & Western RR KCOY-TV News - YouTube]
* "Love Those Trains", National Geographic, video, 1985
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=BupsDEZOLYUC&pg=PA113&lpg=PA113&dq=Seymour+Johnson+live+steam&source=bl&ots=di4BOYG7pD&sig=__o-YMU-SzR4Yzo7Yrh6m6jMszM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&ved=0CGgQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=Seymour%20Johnson%20live%20steam&f=false "Walt Disney's Railroad Story", Carolwood Pacific LLC; see chapter on Bob Harpur]
* "Seymour F. Johnson - Obituary", Lewis Soibelman, [[Live Steam Magazine]], August 1992
* [http://www.goldengatels.org/library/CallBoys/CallBoy%20October%202014%20online%20version.pdf "A Visit to Seymour Johnson's Moticeto & Pacific Railroad", The Callboy]

Seymour F. Johnson

2018-07-12T14:54:22Z

IBLS Wiki Admin: /* Gallery */

[[Category:People]]

Seymour F. Johnson was the grandson of Warren S. Johnson, founder and chairman of [http://www.johnsoncontrols.com Johnson Controls].

For many years the late Dr. Seymour Johnson owned and operated a huge Live Steam miniature railroad in the Montecito hills of California. His club was the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers]] (GVLS). He operated both 1 1/2" scale, 7 1/2" gauge rolling stock and locomotives as well as much larger 3" scale, 15" gauge rolling stock and locomotives.

== Tom Remembers ==

Tom Parris wrote in the Summer 2005 edition of the [http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/dam/WWW/jci/corporate/retirees/newsletter_v12n2.pdf Warren S. Johnson Society of Retirees, Inc.] newsletter:

: Do any of you model railroaders remember [[Seymour F. Johnson]]’s railroad? It was called the Montecito & Pacific Railroad. As I remember it, Seymour Johnson was the grandson of Warren S. Johnson. He was the first person that I remember that had a Greyhound bus converted into a motor home. He would park it in the company parking lot when he attended Board of Directors Meetings. One year, he had scale model stainless steel spikes made by our Model Shop for his railroad. Yes, he reimbursed the company for them. The railroad had a 15 inch track, steam locomotive and coaches with a half-mile loop track near his estate above Santa Barbara, California. The locomotive was a model of a New York Central J3 Hudson. Other model railroaders stored and ran their steam locomotives at his facility. Eventually, a collector purchased the locomotive and coaches from his estate. He also wrote technical articles for [[Live Steam Magazine|Live Steam]] and [[Modeltec]] magazines.

== Linn H. Westcott Pays a Visit ==

Linn H. Westcott, then editor of Model Railroader magazine, paid a visit to Dr. Seymour Johnson at this [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]] in 1969. Westcott wrote an extensive article on the operation which was published in the September 1969 edition of Model Railroader.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SeymourJohnson GVWRR MR 196909.jpg|Seymour Johnson Backs his 7.5" gauge 4-8-4 up the ramp leading from the steaming tracks to the main lines. Retaining wall supports main station tracks. From Model Railroader, Sept 1969.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s.jpg|Linn H. Westcott watches Seymour Johnson work on his live-steam 4-8-4, Goleta Valley Western R.R., Montecito, California.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s 2.JPG|Seymour Johnson and Linn H. Westcott servicing Johnson's 4-8-4.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s 3.JPG|Linn H. Westcott driving Seymour Johnson's 4-8-4, Goleta Valley Western R.R., Montecito, California.
</gallery>

=== What Happened to the GVWRR? ===

The club and layout were built on Dr. Seymour Johnson's private estate. Seymour was born on May 7, 1901. Unfortunately, he died on April 4, 1992 at the grand old age of 90 years. The club continued to meet at his track until shortly after his death. Eventually, all track was removed. Most of the 15" gauge went to the San Diego area and is at Glen Bell's "Bell Gardens" Farm. Some of the 7.5" live steamers negotiated land in Ventura and built a new livesteamer facility. However, this club property was eventually vacated and the railroad that was built on it no longer exists.

From [http://www.edhat.com/site/tidbit.cfm?nid=45687&showcomments=T edhat.com]:

: The railroad at Seymore's ranch was run by the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers|Goleta Valley Railroad Club]]. After he died, and the property was up for sale, the club removed everything. The club is still alive with a few members. All the equipment was taken to another club, [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]], at Halcyon near Arroyo Grande, in San Luis Obispo County.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=94679 LivingLegend wrote on Chaski.org]:

: If you have Google Earth software for satellite imagery installed on your computer (not Google Maps)....

: Seymour's estate was located in the area of the 5000 block of Vista Linda Lane in Montecito (Santa Barbara), CA. The following coordinates will put you right in the center of Seymour's home at the top the hill just above the railroad.

: * 34-degrees 26-minutes 31.15-seconds North
: * 119-degrees 34-minutes 09.46-seconds West

: The home was to the east side of the track. The most resent satellite image on Google Earth is from 2009, but you can access images going back to 1994 when the railroad right-of-way could still be seen. The 9/29/2007 image shows construction to replace Seymour's home as well as other new home(s) construction where Seymour's property was sub-divided. You can overlay street maps over the satellite image.

Harrison Hitchcock posted on Facebook:

: 4751 resides now at the [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]] but is still owned by the members of the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers|Goleta Valley Club]].

== National Geographic Special ==

National Geographic produces a video special entitled "Love Those Train". [[Seymour F. Johnson|Seymour Johnson]] is interviewed starting at the 10 minute mark.
[[File:SeymourJohnson GoletaWesternRR IBLS 50Anniv 1982.PNG|thumb|center|400px|Seymour Johnson operating his oil-fired Northern on the Goleta Valley and Western RR with an IBLS 50th Anniversary Banner in the background. From the National Geographic special "Love Those Trains".]]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhD-V2tXlYg&t=10m01s "Love Those Trains", Seymour Johnson interview, National Geographic]

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=94679 LivingLegend wrote on Chaski.org]:

: For those who may not be familiar with it's history....

: [[Seymour F. Johnson|Seymour Johnson's]] original railroad was at his home in Goleta, CA, Goleta is to the west of Santa Barbara. This railroad was called [[Goleta Valley Railroad|Goleta Valley]]. It was this railroad where the photos of Seymour's 4-8-4 were taken that were featured in the 1.5" Northern section of the [[Martin Lewis]] catalogs of the 1950's, 60's, 70's

: During the early 1960's, Seymour started building a new home and railroad in Monticito, which is slightly east of Santa Barbara. The railroad was renamed from [[Goleta Valley Railroad|Goleta Valley]], to [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad|Goleta Valley Western]].

: It was the Monticito property which was built up the mountain and overlooked the ocean.

== 3 inch Hudson ==

Mr. Pearson sold a complete set of drawings for Seymour Johnson's 3 inch scale Hudson on [http://discoverlivesteam.com/discoverforsale/forsale/5_Pearson2/index.htm DiscoverLiveSteam.com].

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SeymourHudson3inch LiveSteamCoverJune1991.jpg|Seymour Johnson 3 inch scale Hudson on the cover of [[Live Steam Magazine]], June 1991.
File:SeymourHudson3inch drawing legend.jpg
File:SeymourHudson3inch drawing index.jpg
</gallery>

== LP ==
[[File:FarewellToSteam LP 1955.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]

Seymour produced an LP (vinyl) record of steam locomotive sounds under the name Seymour F. Johnson Enterpises. From [http://www.popsike.com/Santa-Barbara-Farewell-To-Steam-Locomotive-Train-LP/390281929125.html popsike.com]:

: Farewell To Steam! - Seymour F. Johnson Enterprises, Santa Barbara, CA. GB-4043 (1955)(Mono)(US) ...This auction is for an original, first edition Record pressing on U.S. vinyl. This recording tells the story of that bright winter day (February 6, 1955) when the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway ran the last train on the Los Angeles Division to be pulled by steam. Also included will be a second pressing of this release as well.

:* Tracks listed: (Engine 4-8-4 number 3759)
:* (Side One)(A)Los Angeles to San Bernardino, California (B)Pasadena to San Bernardino, California
:* (Side Two)(A)San Bernardino to Barstow, California (B)Sounds of Southern Pacific Trains at Santa Barbara, California

== Gallery ==

<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
File:SeymourFJohnsonSteamer1965.jpg|[[Seymour F. Johnson]] rides astride diesel switch engine as he pushes steam locomotive and train over new section of 1.5 inch scale track to check its accuracy. From Popular Mechanics, August 1965.
File:SeymourJohnson frames LittleEngines Catalog1962 0076.jpg|[[Seymour F. Johnson]] standing next to frames for 3 inch scale Hudson by [[Martin Lewis]].
</gallery>

== See Also ==

* [[Iron Colts in the Back Yard]]
* [[Mini-Rail Corporation]]
* [[Goleta Valley Railroad]]
* [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]]

== Bibliography ==

* "What is Mini-Rail?", [[Live Steam Magazine]], Seymour Johnson, December 1987

== References ==

* [http://www.preclass.com/TSL/WORDPRESS/Goleta.pdf "Goleta Valley Western RR", Linn H. Westcott, Model Railroader, Sept 1969]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CEIQtwIwAw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DkGYq-tcZBsg&ei=tTiyUZSdGaGFyQHF_IAI&usg=AFQjCNFLYYxw1HtRs2sxDcxVTzj3d9jVMw&sig2=vg-p1Vk_pCjjqePebvpd8g&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc 1996 IBLS Ramble - Goleta Valley Railroad Club (Part 7) - YouTube]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CD8QtwIwAg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMnUXTD6Riu4&ei=tTiyUZSdGaGFyQHF_IAI&usg=AFQjCNEWC3-PMhgYFuCVV-hGGLYU_o8EFA&sig2=DqoIUmWfTzvbUx16bsfx8A&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc 1996 IBLS Ramble - Golet Valley Railroad Club (Part8) - YouTube]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDQQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DaPSy_7GHp6M&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&usg=AFQjCNFeQA_KpqGS_2ON086scQDqyf9-UQ&sig2=R2oZ22eUnDwHTdig4K1eEA&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc Goleta Valley & Western RR KCOY-TV News - YouTube]
* "Love Those Trains", National Geographic, video, 1985
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=BupsDEZOLYUC&pg=PA113&lpg=PA113&dq=Seymour+Johnson+live+steam&source=bl&ots=di4BOYG7pD&sig=__o-YMU-SzR4Yzo7Yrh6m6jMszM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&ved=0CGgQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=Seymour%20Johnson%20live%20steam&f=false "Walt Disney's Railroad Story", Carolwood Pacific LLC; see chapter on Bob Harpur]
* "Seymour F. Johnson - Obituary", Lewis Soibelman, [[Live Steam Magazine]], August 1992
* [http://www.goldengatels.org/library/CallBoys/CallBoy%20October%202014%20online%20version.pdf "A Visit to Seymour Johnson's Moticeto & Pacific Railroad", The Callboy]

Seymour F. Johnson

2018-07-12T14:53:51Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

Seymour F. Johnson was the grandson of Warren S. Johnson, founder and chairman of [http://www.johnsoncontrols.com Johnson Controls].

For many years the late Dr. Seymour Johnson owned and operated a huge Live Steam miniature railroad in the Montecito hills of California. His club was the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers]] (GVLS). He operated both 1 1/2" scale, 7 1/2" gauge rolling stock and locomotives as well as much larger 3" scale, 15" gauge rolling stock and locomotives.

== Tom Remembers ==

Tom Parris wrote in the Summer 2005 edition of the [http://www.johnsoncontrols.com/content/dam/WWW/jci/corporate/retirees/newsletter_v12n2.pdf Warren S. Johnson Society of Retirees, Inc.] newsletter:

: Do any of you model railroaders remember [[Seymour F. Johnson]]’s railroad? It was called the Montecito & Pacific Railroad. As I remember it, Seymour Johnson was the grandson of Warren S. Johnson. He was the first person that I remember that had a Greyhound bus converted into a motor home. He would park it in the company parking lot when he attended Board of Directors Meetings. One year, he had scale model stainless steel spikes made by our Model Shop for his railroad. Yes, he reimbursed the company for them. The railroad had a 15 inch track, steam locomotive and coaches with a half-mile loop track near his estate above Santa Barbara, California. The locomotive was a model of a New York Central J3 Hudson. Other model railroaders stored and ran their steam locomotives at his facility. Eventually, a collector purchased the locomotive and coaches from his estate. He also wrote technical articles for [[Live Steam Magazine|Live Steam]] and [[Modeltec]] magazines.

== Linn H. Westcott Pays a Visit ==

Linn H. Westcott, then editor of Model Railroader magazine, paid a visit to Dr. Seymour Johnson at this [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]] in 1969. Westcott wrote an extensive article on the operation which was published in the September 1969 edition of Model Railroader.

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SeymourJohnson GVWRR MR 196909.jpg|Seymour Johnson Backs his 7.5" gauge 4-8-4 up the ramp leading from the steaming tracks to the main lines. Retaining wall supports main station tracks. From Model Railroader, Sept 1969.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s.jpg|Linn H. Westcott watches Seymour Johnson work on his live-steam 4-8-4, Goleta Valley Western R.R., Montecito, California.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s 2.JPG|Seymour Johnson and Linn H. Westcott servicing Johnson's 4-8-4.
File:LinnHWestcott SeymourJohnson 1960s 3.JPG|Linn H. Westcott driving Seymour Johnson's 4-8-4, Goleta Valley Western R.R., Montecito, California.
</gallery>

=== What Happened to the GVWRR? ===

The club and layout were built on Dr. Seymour Johnson's private estate. Seymour was born on May 7, 1901. Unfortunately, he died on April 4, 1992 at the grand old age of 90 years. The club continued to meet at his track until shortly after his death. Eventually, all track was removed. Most of the 15" gauge went to the San Diego area and is at Glen Bell's "Bell Gardens" Farm. Some of the 7.5" live steamers negotiated land in Ventura and built a new livesteamer facility. However, this club property was eventually vacated and the railroad that was built on it no longer exists.

From [http://www.edhat.com/site/tidbit.cfm?nid=45687&showcomments=T edhat.com]:

: The railroad at Seymore's ranch was run by the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers|Goleta Valley Railroad Club]]. After he died, and the property was up for sale, the club removed everything. The club is still alive with a few members. All the equipment was taken to another club, [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]], at Halcyon near Arroyo Grande, in San Luis Obispo County.

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=94679 LivingLegend wrote on Chaski.org]:

: If you have Google Earth software for satellite imagery installed on your computer (not Google Maps)....

: Seymour's estate was located in the area of the 5000 block of Vista Linda Lane in Montecito (Santa Barbara), CA. The following coordinates will put you right in the center of Seymour's home at the top the hill just above the railroad.

: * 34-degrees 26-minutes 31.15-seconds North
: * 119-degrees 34-minutes 09.46-seconds West

: The home was to the east side of the track. The most resent satellite image on Google Earth is from 2009, but you can access images going back to 1994 when the railroad right-of-way could still be seen. The 9/29/2007 image shows construction to replace Seymour's home as well as other new home(s) construction where Seymour's property was sub-divided. You can overlay street maps over the satellite image.

Harrison Hitchcock posted on Facebook:

: 4751 resides now at the [[Bitter Creek Western Railroad]] but is still owned by the members of the [[Goleta Valley Live Steamers|Goleta Valley Club]].

== National Geographic Special ==

National Geographic produces a video special entitled "Love Those Train". [[Seymour F. Johnson|Seymour Johnson]] is interviewed starting at the 10 minute mark.
[[File:SeymourJohnson GoletaWesternRR IBLS 50Anniv 1982.PNG|thumb|center|400px|Seymour Johnson operating his oil-fired Northern on the Goleta Valley and Western RR with an IBLS 50th Anniversary Banner in the background. From the National Geographic special "Love Those Trains".]]
* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhD-V2tXlYg&t=10m01s "Love Those Trains", Seymour Johnson interview, National Geographic]

[http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=94679 LivingLegend wrote on Chaski.org]:

: For those who may not be familiar with it's history....

: [[Seymour F. Johnson|Seymour Johnson's]] original railroad was at his home in Goleta, CA, Goleta is to the west of Santa Barbara. This railroad was called [[Goleta Valley Railroad|Goleta Valley]]. It was this railroad where the photos of Seymour's 4-8-4 were taken that were featured in the 1.5" Northern section of the [[Martin Lewis]] catalogs of the 1950's, 60's, 70's

: During the early 1960's, Seymour started building a new home and railroad in Monticito, which is slightly east of Santa Barbara. The railroad was renamed from [[Goleta Valley Railroad|Goleta Valley]], to [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad|Goleta Valley Western]].

: It was the Monticito property which was built up the mountain and overlooked the ocean.

== 3 inch Hudson ==

Mr. Pearson sold a complete set of drawings for Seymour Johnson's 3 inch scale Hudson on [http://discoverlivesteam.com/discoverforsale/forsale/5_Pearson2/index.htm DiscoverLiveSteam.com].

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:SeymourHudson3inch LiveSteamCoverJune1991.jpg|Seymour Johnson 3 inch scale Hudson on the cover of [[Live Steam Magazine]], June 1991.
File:SeymourHudson3inch drawing legend.jpg
File:SeymourHudson3inch drawing index.jpg
</gallery>

== LP ==
[[File:FarewellToSteam LP 1955.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]

Seymour produced an LP (vinyl) record of steam locomotive sounds under the name Seymour F. Johnson Enterpises. From [http://www.popsike.com/Santa-Barbara-Farewell-To-Steam-Locomotive-Train-LP/390281929125.html popsike.com]:

: Farewell To Steam! - Seymour F. Johnson Enterprises, Santa Barbara, CA. GB-4043 (1955)(Mono)(US) ...This auction is for an original, first edition Record pressing on U.S. vinyl. This recording tells the story of that bright winter day (February 6, 1955) when the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway ran the last train on the Los Angeles Division to be pulled by steam. Also included will be a second pressing of this release as well.

:* Tracks listed: (Engine 4-8-4 number 3759)
:* (Side One)(A)Los Angeles to San Bernardino, California (B)Pasadena to San Bernardino, California
:* (Side Two)(A)San Bernardino to Barstow, California (B)Sounds of Southern Pacific Trains at Santa Barbara, California

== Gallery ==

<gallery widths=300px heights=300px perrow=2>
File:SeymourFJohnsonSteamer1965.jpg|[[Seymour F. Johnson]] rides astride diesel switch engine as he pushes steam locomotive and train over new section of 1.5 inch scale track to check its accuracy. From Popular Mechanics, August 1965.
File:SeymourFJohnson LittleEngines Catalog1962 .jpg|[[Seymour F. Johnson]] with his 1-1/2 inch 4-8-4 U.P., built with [[Martin Lewis]] parts.
File:SeymourJohnson frames LittleEngines Catalog1962 0076.jpg|[[Seymour F. Johnson]] standing next to frames for 3 inch scale Hudson by [[Martin Lewis]].
</gallery>

== See Also ==

* [[Iron Colts in the Back Yard]]
* [[Mini-Rail Corporation]]
* [[Goleta Valley Railroad]]
* [[Goleta Valley Western Railroad]]

== Bibliography ==

* "What is Mini-Rail?", [[Live Steam Magazine]], Seymour Johnson, December 1987

== References ==

* [http://www.preclass.com/TSL/WORDPRESS/Goleta.pdf "Goleta Valley Western RR", Linn H. Westcott, Model Railroader, Sept 1969]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CEIQtwIwAw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DkGYq-tcZBsg&ei=tTiyUZSdGaGFyQHF_IAI&usg=AFQjCNFLYYxw1HtRs2sxDcxVTzj3d9jVMw&sig2=vg-p1Vk_pCjjqePebvpd8g&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc 1996 IBLS Ramble - Goleta Valley Railroad Club (Part 7) - YouTube]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&ved=0CD8QtwIwAg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMnUXTD6Riu4&ei=tTiyUZSdGaGFyQHF_IAI&usg=AFQjCNEWC3-PMhgYFuCVV-hGGLYU_o8EFA&sig2=DqoIUmWfTzvbUx16bsfx8A&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc 1996 IBLS Ramble - Golet Valley Railroad Club (Part8) - YouTube]
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CDQQtwIwAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DaPSy_7GHp6M&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&usg=AFQjCNFeQA_KpqGS_2ON086scQDqyf9-UQ&sig2=R2oZ22eUnDwHTdig4K1eEA&bvm=bv.47534661,d.aWc Goleta Valley & Western RR KCOY-TV News - YouTube]
* "Love Those Trains", National Geographic, video, 1985
* [http://books.google.com/books?id=BupsDEZOLYUC&pg=PA113&lpg=PA113&dq=Seymour+Johnson+live+steam&source=bl&ots=di4BOYG7pD&sig=__o-YMU-SzR4Yzo7Yrh6m6jMszM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=rmuyUYfaI-eqywHciYD4Cw&ved=0CGgQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=Seymour%20Johnson%20live%20steam&f=false "Walt Disney's Railroad Story", Carolwood Pacific LLC; see chapter on Bob Harpur]
* "Seymour F. Johnson - Obituary", Lewis Soibelman, [[Live Steam Magazine]], August 1992
* [http://www.goldengatels.org/library/CallBoys/CallBoy%20October%202014%20online%20version.pdf "A Visit to Seymour Johnson's Moticeto & Pacific Railroad", The Callboy]

File:HaroldChristensen LittleEngines 040 RickGreene.jpg

2018-07-12T14:51:20Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

Rick Greene driving his 0-4-0, built by Harold Christensen. Photo by Pete Greene.

Harold Christensen

2018-07-12T14:51:03Z

IBLS Wiki Admin:

[[Category:People]]

Harold Christensen

From Pete Greene, 21 Feb 2013

Harold Christensen, of Floresville, TX, passed away Wednesday night from pneumonia at age 94. Not many of you ever knew Harold Christensen, who for many years was a member of [[Southwestern Live Steamers|SWLS]] back when I got started in this hobby around 1978. Harold probably built close to two dozen steam engines, mostly from scratch. Harold built 3 out of the 4 steam engines we own. My first steam engine, an 0-4-0 Switcher and he built the green Atlantic and Donna Greene's oversized American too. Harold built a Mikado that was converted to a Pacific and Steve Campa has that engine along with Harold's old Black Atlantic. He helped Tweety Tolson build his Atlantic engine, he built a Mogul for [[Henry Blossom|Hank Blossom]] of Wimberley, a Hudson for Thomas Morgan of Callahan, TX, the yellow steamer that belonged to Kari Worth's grandfather, that she now runs, and many many more I can't remember. He got pretty cranky in his old age, but he and I were old friends and his talents will be sorely missed by members in this hobby.

God speed Harold,

Pete & Donna Greene

<gallery widths="300px" heights="300px">
File:KariWirth Mogul Blowdown Hals May2013.jpg|Kari Wirth at the engine shed of HALS, blowing down her Mogul. This locomotive belonged to her grandfather, Harry Simpson, and was blue when he ran it. It was built by Harold Christensen. Photo by [[Daris A Nevil]], May 2013.
File:Donna Greenes Oversize American Built By Harold Christian.JPG|Donna Greene's oversize American, built by Harold Christensen. Photo by [[Daris A Nevil]], February 2013, HALS meet.
File:SteveCampa Pacific HALS May2012.png|Steve Campa's Pacific at HALS/SWLS Memorial Meet, 2012. This locomotive was built by Harold Christensen, and actually started life as a Mikado. Photo from SWLS Summer 2012 Newsletter.
File:HaroldChristensen Atlantics.jpg|These two Atlantics were scratch built by Harold Christensen. The one on the left is the first Atlantic he built. Photo provided by Pete Greene.
File:HaroldChristensen LittleEngines 040 RickGreene.jpg|Rick Greene driving his 0-4-0, built by Harold Christensen. Photo by Pete Greene.
</gallery>